gear oil for sure grip

-
Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
9,452
Reaction score
489
Location
Belleville Canada
Hi guys I just scored an 8 3/4 323 489 sure grip what kind of oil do i use and how many quarts will i need to buy.Also my axels bearings and seals have maybe 1500 miles on them should i replace them? Thankssssssssssssssssss.:burnout::burnout:
 
I usually don't replace seals unless they leak. To prevent damaging the ones already installed, get an empty toilet paper roll, slice it from end to end, pull the axle out far enough to get the roll around the axle, slide the toilet paper roll in far enough that it's centered in the seal, and pull the axle. Reuse for other side and installation as well.
 
Brad4406 said:
I usually don't replace seals unless they leak. To prevent damaging the ones already installed, get an empty toilet paper roll, slice it from end to end, pull the axle out far enough to get the roll around the axle, slide the toilet paper roll in far enough that it's centered in the seal, and pull the axle. Reuse for other side and installation as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip,but i am only pulling the axle just enough to clear the old 486 is there a different oil for cone vs clutch the clutch is what i have now.
 
Snake said:
Also my axels bearings and seals have maybe 1500 miles on them should i replace them?
Click to expand...

Then why did you ask if you should replace the seals? I definitely wouldn't replace a bearing that only has 1500 miles on it unless it showed some kind of damage.

I always use the MOPAR posi additive no matter whether using clutch or cone.

I forget how many quarts of fluid. I always keep a lot around for 4-speeds and rear axles. Put in the posi additive first then fill till it starts to run out the fill hole.
 
Brad4406 said:
Then why did you ask if you should replace the seals? I definitely wouldn't replace a bearing that only has 1500 miles on it unless it showed some kind of damage.

I always use the MOPAR posi additive no matter whether using clutch or cone.

I forget how many quarts of fluid. I always keep a lot around for 4-speeds and rear axles. Put in the posi additive first then fill till it start to run out the fill hole.
Click to expand...

Sorry to mislead ya,i was thinking of the gasket behind the metal shim.So i uas regular gear oil but add the sure grip additive,not posi additive we are talking mopar not chevy lol.
 
Snake said:
Sorry to mislead ya,i was thinking of the gasket behind the metal shim.So i uas regular gear oil but add the sure grip additive,not posi additive we are talking mopar not chevy lol.
Click to expand...

No need to replace the shims or the foam seals either, unless you find a bunch of axle grease inside the drums. The only seals I ever worry about are the axle seals; gear oil and brake shoes do not play well together.

For weight on the fluid, I'd go 75-90; I've never tried any of the synthetic gear oil. When I lived in SC, I'd run a thicker weight, but not up here.
 
Snake said:
Thanks for the tip,but i am only pulling the axle just enough to clear the old 486 is there a different oil for cone vs clutch the clutch is what i have now.
Click to expand...

Don't let the axles lay on the seals. Pull the axles completely out. Careful not to damage the seals removing the axles or installing them.

I used the ford friction modifier for limited slip rears and straight 80w/90 gear oil.

The old 486?????
 
I put a post on here about 2 weeks ago about sure grip additive. I used Valvoline 80/90 non synthetic, the bottle said no additive needed so I just used the oil. After warm up I noticed some chatter when backing up and pulling forward. Cold I never heard anything. By advise on here I added some Ford additive along with the new fairly new gear oil. No more chatter. I will say that it does have a real foul odor as was mentioned to me but the stuff works. Believe I paid not much over 7.00 bucks. 4 ounces. Oh forgot this was in a newly rebuilt 742. I have read where other's hadn't an issue but also was told that possibly there wasn't enough of the additive in the new gear oil. I was told this to by a local garage also. Hope this helps. :D
 
i saw dr diff (cass) post before saying the ford additive is best for fibrous limited slips and the gm additive is best for steel clutches.

you should email him directly, his contact info is on his website doctordiff.com
 
Snake said:
Thanks for the tip,but i am only pulling the axle just enough to clear the old 486 is there a different oil for cone vs clutch the clutch is what i have now.
Click to expand...

Don't do that, take it all the way out, because with the weight of the axle pushing up on your inner seal could stretch it and it "might" leak

Also, BEFORE you put the axles back in, make sure to insert an axle into the splines on both sides to be sure they are lined up (there are two sets, an inner and an outer), when you put the center in try real hard not to turn the yoke. This way when you slide your axles in, they should slip right in to both sets of splines. Use care when putting the axles back in as well, the splines can nick the inner seal causing it to leak.
 
pntastar69 said:
Don't let the axles lay on the seals. Pull the axles completely out. Careful not to damage the seals removing the axles or installing them.

I used the ford friction modifier for limited slip rears and straight 80w/90 gear oil.
Click to expand...

This^^^is what I use as well.

I didn't catch that before I responded, but twice won't hurt, lol.
 
pntastar69 said:
Don't let the axles lay on the seals. Pull the axles completely out. Careful not to damage the seals removing the axles or installing them.

I used the ford friction modifier for limited slip rears and straight 80w/90 gear oil.

The old 486?????
Click to expand...

489 my mistake
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top