Getting hot on the highway with the AC on.

-
If that is the case just remove the thermostat and let the water flow.

I would like someone to do that and let us know what happens.
it will have more issues, the thermostat restriction is used to help build more pressure in the block to prevent hotspots.
 
it will have more issues, the thermostat restriction is used to help build more pressure in the block to prevent hotspots.

Yea I don't think the water pump can really make any pressure that would make any difference. The pressure is make by the temp change in the water. That is why if you remove the rad cap on a hot motor, remove it by bleeding off the pressure and then reinstalling the cap on the hot coolant it will never make pressure again till it cools down and heated up again. I have a BB water pump on my parts washer and it works great but it does not make any pressure, it just moves the solvent.
 
Here is a picture of the restricter plate I ran and had good luck with it heating up and it ran 180 most of the time. I had 4 different sizes I tried.

IMG_6936.JPG
 
There's obvious science about having a restriction and moreover a thermostat. I'm sure engineers would have elected not to include one if they weren't needed. I've tried to run without one in the past and always went back to one.
 
200 is not hot! Not even close
240 is hot
Today's fuel likes 195 degree thermostats
190-210 is nomal
Stewart high flow t stat works well
Street cars require a thermostat not a restrictor...
 
it will have more issues, the thermostat restriction is used to help build more pressure in the block to prevent hotspots.

I tried that on a pretty hot 406 sbc , it didnt work , built restrictors to slow it down , eventually wound up w/ a 5/8 hole in the restrictor that worked great!
Proving to me , that water can be circulated too fast !! ( a mech. friend told me that I would wind up w/ a 5/8'' hole before I tried all of them !
--
 
I tried that on a pretty hot 406 sbc , it didnt work , built restrictors to slow it down , eventually wound up w/ a 5/8 hole in the restrictor that worked great!
Proving to me , that water can be circulated too fast !! ( a mech. friend told me that I would wind up w/ a 5/8'' hole before I tried all of them !
--

No that just means that there wasn't enough pressure in the block which lead to water boiling in hot spots and creating steam bubbles in the coolant, which made it more inefficient. You can't go too fast through the radiator it's been explained by me and other people on the thread many times.
Example:
Let's say you have water molecules go once every 10 seconds(just a random number not an actual time) through the entire cooling system, it will spend more time in the engine which means that it will slightly boil and create steam bubbles. now make it complete the cycle in 5 seconds, it will pass through the radiator 2 times in that amount of time so it will still shed a lot of heat, but it also won't have gas bubbles inside of it due to boiling.
You can't physically spin a water pump fast enough for it to be an issue with it.
You did a test with uncontrolled factors and assumed something without thinking there are other elements at place. I had a friend that changed his water pump for a flowkooler one and a smaller pulley, then he had issues with overheating. His water hose was collapsing at high rpms. But until i pointed that out he was sure that the "too fast through the radiator" BS thing was right
yellow rose did a much better write up than i did about it and i recommend reading it. There are also ton of cooling companies with good articles on it
Stewart Components
Here is one
 
Restrictors are for race cars.
Thermostats provide stable operating temps and proper flow.
Running the engine too cold [below 190] accelerates wear, contaminates the oil prematurely and it will not run as well as is should.
 
Restrictors are for race cars.
Thermostats provide stable operating temps and proper flow.
Running the engine too cold [below 190] accelerates wear, contaminates the oil prematurely and it will not run as well as is should.

That'll be your little secret. Like everything else, it depends on the combo and it's all in the tune.
 
Restrictors are for race cars.
Thermostats provide stable operating temps and proper flow.
Running the engine too cold [below 190] accelerates wear, contaminates the oil prematurely and it will not run as well as is should.
Yes - restrictors' race application
Yes - thermostat's street application
190* - I am from MO you need to show me, I need proof that it accelerates wear.
I run my hoped up 340 iron head roller engine with a hi flow 160* stat 10W-30 oil. I have seen zero signs of oil contaminate from condensation and the engine runs very well. 8K miles of hard driving and nothing has come apart, cut open the used oil filters and they are clean of any metal.
I believe I saw that mother Mopar used 160* stats, correct me if I an wrong.
Show me
 
Yes - restrictors' race application
Yes - thermostat's street application
190* - I am from MO you need to show me, I need proof that it accelerates wear.
I run my hoped up 340 iron head roller engine with a hi flow 160* stat 10W-30 oil. I have seen zero signs of oil contaminate from condensation and the engine runs very well. 8K miles of hard driving and nothing has come apart, cut open the used oil filters and they are clean of any metal.
I believe I saw that mother Mopar used 160* stats, correct me if I an wrong.
Show me

The restrictor I ran was on a street car -------------best e.t. was 10.28
IMG_0235 (1).jpg
 
it was caled the kick ***
bob, what A Body model is that?
Cant say I have seen one before.

known as the kick *** model , wish I still had it . Sold it to a guy in Bartlesville , totally dis appeared . ???
 
200 is not hot! Not even close
240 is hot
Today's fuel likes 195 degree thermostats
190-210 is nomal
Stewart high flow t stat works well
Street cars require a thermostat not a restrictor...
Restrictors are for race cars.
Thermostats provide stable operating temps and proper flow.
Running the engine too cold [below 190] accelerates wear, contaminates the oil prematurely and it will not run as well as is should.
I have no need to prove anything to all you experts.
I will stop helping the uninformed any further
Well you’ve certainly stated your opinions well it’s clear to see. You make a great case on all your points. :rolleyes: And to think that if everybody only raised their overall running temps from what? 180? to say 195-210? that everyone’s setup would run even better! No if ands or buts!!! It’s a given, today’s fuels and all don’t you know??!! ... ....Yeah, total:bs_flag:
 
-
Back
Top