Mopar44134
Well-Known Member
I have a 1968 318 Barracuda fast back. Dad(rip) bought it back in the 70’s to replace his coronet 500 383 4spd he use to race. drive shaft broke at the track and he wrecked it. He tried putting the 383 4spd in this car but didn’t want to cut up the car, sold the drive train for a 73 gold duster 340 rust bucket which turned out having a rod knock, thrust bearing issue. So the car sat while mom and dad had 3 kids.
I have mentioned here before it has a roller 360, 727, 8 3/4 3.91. 4 wheel drums. It also has msd ignition, mopar performance dual plane intake, comp 20-614-9 .480 long snout cam, and a street demon 625. Exhaust is hooker competition header, 2 1/2 dual exhaust, H pipe, to the bumper with good sounding mufflers.
The plan for this winter will be to replace all front end bushing. I thought the tie rods were bad….uca bushings flex is about 1/2”. I have poly bushings. Upper/lower ball joints. Brake shoes, shocks, master cylinder to replace as well. I think they are all original parts. Tie rods etc look good. The car has manual brakes, power steering. Power steering pump leaks. I plan on swapping to manual steering. I have the gear box and extension for the steering shaft. My simple reason for this is to reduce drag on the motor.
I’ve searched this forum and YouTube on this but have never replaced bushings, so I figured why not document it here. My lofty goal is to race at no names with Grandpa Will Run, and Just Mopar Joe. For now though, the plan is to get the car back on the street with a few runs at Quaker city. Maybe rub elbows with Pittsburg racer.
I also need tires. I have nib 15x8 Ralleys, 4” bolt pattern For the rear. I think I have room for the 275/60’s but it will be tight. Do they still make spacers? Anyone have a recommendation on longer wheel studs. I have 14” L60’s on it now. At the track with 3.23’s and the factory cam, if I left the line above 1800 I’d spin the tires. Shift at 5500 or higher, 1-2 shift, cool sounding chirp. i Have not modified the springs. so I’m looking at the Mickey thompson street ets r2.
I never had a fan shroud on this car and always had overheating issues. So recently I added a shroud. I have a 22” radiator but wouldn’t spend the $250 for a reman. It’s also seemed I was a day late on the driver quality 614 shroud. years ago I purchased from a member here a shroud for a 19” radiator. I also replaced the beloved flex fan with factory 19” 5 blade and the hayden 2947 clutch fan.
im sure your wondering about the 19” fan. part number in the fan shroud is 3691916/3691836. I used B&M 80278 trans cooler mounting kit To secure it to the radiator. The b&m kit has 1/4” rubber blocks which I used on the engine side. spacing fit better. I purchased the summit brand kit, the blocks were thin, I used those on the bumper side. i Lined the shroud along the passenger side of the radiator and notched the shroud for the upper hose and the aftermarket thermostat bung. originally I centered the shroud on the radiator, My mistake, make sure you center it on the fan. You only need to notch the upper hose. There was no problem with the lower hose and transmission lines. One other note on the shroud modification, where the part number is, I cut that flap off to use The full diameter of the radiator.
I also replaced my high quality summit racing leaking chrome thermostat housing and 160 stat for a Dorman housing and a 195 stat. The car no longer over heats in the driveway and the motor seems happier. Snappier throttle too.
i have a question about the ignition wires attaching to the valve covers. Where can I get the grommets to secure them or am I missing parts? Im going for a stock/functional look. I’m not a fan of chrome. To the point Next winter if I pull the motor I will paint it red or torquoise, or what ever the 318 came as.
I have mentioned here before it has a roller 360, 727, 8 3/4 3.91. 4 wheel drums. It also has msd ignition, mopar performance dual plane intake, comp 20-614-9 .480 long snout cam, and a street demon 625. Exhaust is hooker competition header, 2 1/2 dual exhaust, H pipe, to the bumper with good sounding mufflers.
The plan for this winter will be to replace all front end bushing. I thought the tie rods were bad….uca bushings flex is about 1/2”. I have poly bushings. Upper/lower ball joints. Brake shoes, shocks, master cylinder to replace as well. I think they are all original parts. Tie rods etc look good. The car has manual brakes, power steering. Power steering pump leaks. I plan on swapping to manual steering. I have the gear box and extension for the steering shaft. My simple reason for this is to reduce drag on the motor.
I’ve searched this forum and YouTube on this but have never replaced bushings, so I figured why not document it here. My lofty goal is to race at no names with Grandpa Will Run, and Just Mopar Joe. For now though, the plan is to get the car back on the street with a few runs at Quaker city. Maybe rub elbows with Pittsburg racer.
I also need tires. I have nib 15x8 Ralleys, 4” bolt pattern For the rear. I think I have room for the 275/60’s but it will be tight. Do they still make spacers? Anyone have a recommendation on longer wheel studs. I have 14” L60’s on it now. At the track with 3.23’s and the factory cam, if I left the line above 1800 I’d spin the tires. Shift at 5500 or higher, 1-2 shift, cool sounding chirp. i Have not modified the springs. so I’m looking at the Mickey thompson street ets r2.
I never had a fan shroud on this car and always had overheating issues. So recently I added a shroud. I have a 22” radiator but wouldn’t spend the $250 for a reman. It’s also seemed I was a day late on the driver quality 614 shroud. years ago I purchased from a member here a shroud for a 19” radiator. I also replaced the beloved flex fan with factory 19” 5 blade and the hayden 2947 clutch fan.
im sure your wondering about the 19” fan. part number in the fan shroud is 3691916/3691836. I used B&M 80278 trans cooler mounting kit To secure it to the radiator. The b&m kit has 1/4” rubber blocks which I used on the engine side. spacing fit better. I purchased the summit brand kit, the blocks were thin, I used those on the bumper side. i Lined the shroud along the passenger side of the radiator and notched the shroud for the upper hose and the aftermarket thermostat bung. originally I centered the shroud on the radiator, My mistake, make sure you center it on the fan. You only need to notch the upper hose. There was no problem with the lower hose and transmission lines. One other note on the shroud modification, where the part number is, I cut that flap off to use The full diameter of the radiator.
I also replaced my high quality summit racing leaking chrome thermostat housing and 160 stat for a Dorman housing and a 195 stat. The car no longer over heats in the driveway and the motor seems happier. Snappier throttle too.
i have a question about the ignition wires attaching to the valve covers. Where can I get the grommets to secure them or am I missing parts? Im going for a stock/functional look. I’m not a fan of chrome. To the point Next winter if I pull the motor I will paint it red or torquoise, or what ever the 318 came as.
