Ghost line nightmare

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999yards

999yards

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OK experts or novice what the heck is wrong?

I put a patch panel in the rear quarter it fit great. Order of operations,
1. Epoxy primer
2. Filler
3. Glaze
4. Primer
5. Primer Sealer
6. Paint/ wet sand

Turned out very smooth but the dang ghost line will not disappear. Just live with it?
 
It won't show up in the picture. But its about 2" below the step out. I have no idea what the correct term is.
 

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Maybe this will help.
 

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If you see it now, you will see it more after paint! On your last block sanding, did you go to bare metal at that line? If so, the weld seem is to high.
 
I couldn't see it at all after primer coats. Then put primer Sealer. Never saw it until painting. No I never went back to metal. Absolutely can not feel the seam it is smooth as glass.
 
Could also be shrinkage. If you didn't let each layer cure sufficiently, it will cause a line. This is all an assumption, because I can't see anything in the picture. Try wet sanding with a block, and spray it again.
 
That's the thing. I've been on this for over a week making certain each coat of everything dried. To top it off I did exactly that yesterday. Wet sanded and put two more coats on. It's looking like something I'm going to have to live with. When my 408 ever gets done there will be a lot of rubber all over it anyway.

Really stumped. Seems like the only cure would be to put some type of hard clear on it and paint over that.
 
I can't really see how bad it is from the picture. But if it looks like it could be an orange-peel kind of thing. You can usually buff or wetsand it out in the final stage. If you actually have what looks like a layer of paint and forms a glob, that's when you want to sand it smooth and flat before your next coat.
 
Wet it with water and take some angled pictures with lights in the reflection so WE can get a better idea of what you see.
 
well i can't really see it either, but scene you see something the first step should be to check if its high or low by gently sanding with 220 on a good true hard sanding block and checking how the line either scratches or doesn't if you cant see the scratches get some white or red guide coat to help.

another thing it could be is a line from using incompatible filler and glaze (assuming it was an activated type the non activated should be used under certain circumstances). Some glazes can only be applied over old prepped top coat or 1k primer( usc icing ), while some can go over anything
 
I would block it on down till you think its level, spray a guide coat and block till that's off, reveling anything imperfect. the glaze is for filling pinhole imperfections, too.
not sure how far the filler extended over the weld, but remember its needs to go far enough out, then work it till its all correct. if trying to use too narrow a strip of filler over the weld, you will have problems.
 
I'll get a better pic tonight eastern time.

Again the transition is very smooth can not even tell a patch was put in. Good info about the filler and glaze. I'll check both and post up what they are. This is the first time for any body work for me.

Thanks guys.
 
How bout this.
 

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Looks way high to me, maybe the reason you cannot feel it is you have kinda sanded it in two directions towards the seam, creating a body line.
Get a hard flat block and sand right on where you see the line, I bet you find it is high.
 
sireland67 said:
looks way high to me, maybe the reason you cannot feel it is you have kinda sanded it in two directions towards the seam, creating a body line.
Get a hard flat block and sand right on where you see the line, i bet you find it is high.
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x2
 
OK I'll try that. But why would a height difference make it possible to see through the paint and primers? Very interesting to me.

BTW I was certain to sand parallel to the seam. No one told me to do it that way but it just seemed like the best thing to do, guess from many years of woodworking.
 
Because the body work is not straight.
It's not the primer or paint its whats under it.
Been doing body work for over 30 years its not straight.
 
999yards said:
OK I'll try that. But why would a height difference make it possible to see through the paint and primers? Very interesting to me.

BTW I was certain to sand parallel to the seam. No one told me to do it that way but it just seemed like the best thing to do, guess from many years of woodworking.
Click to expand...

If you want it flat you need to sand in a 45° angle 2x in opposite directions. Use a guide coat on your primer/surfacer, you'll see where the problem is quickly. Bodywork sucks, that's why I refuse to do it anymore.
 
sireland67 said:
Because the body work is not straight.
It's not the primer or paint its whats under it.
Been doing body work for over 30 years its not straight.
Click to expand...

Yeah I get that but what I'm asking is why does being not straight or height differences cause the light to dark boundary? Is it simply the polarization difference of photons at different angles?

Not that it makes much difference I guess, just interesting. I appreciate the advice and will use it.
Thanks.
 
69_340_GTS said:
If you want it flat you need to sand in a 45° angle 2x in opposite directions. Use a guide coat on your primer/surfacer, you'll see where the problem is quickly. Bodywork sucks, that's why I refuse to do it anymore.
Click to expand...


I don't know what a guide coat is but I'll Google it. Body is definitely the hardest thing on a car to do and have it turn out well. Because I'm new to it I'm enjoying the challenge, not frustrated yet but doubt I could have done it when I was younger. Definitely an art to it.
 
A guide coat is used over primer, a darker color than the primer, it is sprayed kinda of in a zebra pattern, it will show you the high and low spots.
In fact I have never used one, but it would benefit somebody new to bodywork.
 
Thanks guys! Went back over it per instructions and its gone. Thanks a bunch.
 
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