GhstDstr Project

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Brad Dean

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2019
Messages
18
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19
Location
Wahoo, Nebraska
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Well, I've started my first project car. I took out the carpet already. No pics of that, thank God. I have the LF fender off and will work on the rust. Taking the fender off showed me a much larger problem. That's supposed to be a subframe :(
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A few more items off and the outlook is gloom and doom, but remember, parts can be fixed, rigged or replaced. We'll see what happens.
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If your gonna leave that spindle bare like that you may want to coat it with grease before it gets rusty, unless its removal is in your plan. Even so the machined part gets rusty, they are junk
 
Nice car but that's deep structural repair needed. Worth doing but gird your loins, and keep the checkbook handy.
Seriously though, good luck to you.
 
That second picture, first thing came to my mind, with the front sitting that low is broken torsion bar, or frame rust.
 
If your gonna leave that spindle bare like that you may want to coat it with grease before it gets rusty, unless its removal is in your plan. Even so the machined part gets rusty, they are junk
Yeah, I am taking it off, along with the upper control arm and lower control arm, so I can re-do the frame rail. Good call. I will take your advise and put some grease on it in the mean time. All advise is taken in the attitude it is given.
 
That second picture, first thing came to my mind, with the front sitting that low is broken torsion bar, or frame rust.
The LH front frame rail is rusted almost off. Doesn't the torsion bar run along side of the frame on the Dusters? Or do they run from frame rail to frame rail?
 
From pivot point on the lower control arm, to the attaching point at the transmission crossmember. Front to back. Do not mix them up either. Left bar stays on left, right bar stays on right. Otherwise they will fail in short order. They are spring steel bars with a left or right twist. Do not nick or gouge the torsion bars either when getting them out or putting them back in. A gouge or nick in the bar will cause it to fail later on. Yes they run alongside the framerails, about 6" or so inboard of them all A bodies from 1960 up thru 1976 the torsion bars are like that along with B,C, and E bodies. Others on here can give you the easy way of pulling it all apart. With what you got rustwise I'd say. Prob some WD40, impact gun, bernsomatic torch and a BFH to take it all apart.
 
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