Going to strip and paint my car, need advice and a recommendation for a book about it

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Brooks James

VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot
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I have a new Eastwood Drum sander with 6 different sanding rolls. Strip to the bare metal, and condition it. Color will be 1969 GTO Ram Air Judge Concours Red. My plan is for single stage urethane paint. Work small sections at a time, spray them with epoxy primer, go to the next section, and so on.
 
Call Southern Polyurethanes. They're in Georgia. They'll have everything you need. Real helpful people.
 
I'm not recommending any paint in particular but Eastwood has some good educational videos out there for the beginner that would be helpful if you are a visual learner.
 
I am very much an amateur when it comes to painting cars, I did paint some cars when young with lacquer, but all that stuff is obsolete now. Currently doing a 1971 Mach 1 Mustang. I bought the Harbor Freight drum sander, which is a copy of the Eastwood. It does a great job at removing paint and leaving a really nice surface to work on, and it will not heat warp your panels (I guess you could heat warp them but it would really be a user error). Anyways, taking a car down to metal and starting ALL the body work again is a monumental amount of work. If you have good solid paint on your panels, nothing that is cracking, or spider webbing, it is a good idea to use that old paint as a base. Most body shops will not take a car down to metal unless the customer requests it, and pays the huge fee it will entail. If you are not a professional, and you have a body panel that looks good to great with good old paint on them (that is not lacquer), I suggest that you work over what is there. When you start going all the way to metal, what you find underneath it may be a nightmare, and doing all that body work again, especially when you are not a professional is a daunting task. Ask me how I learned this... Regrettably I have some very old paint, that is cracking, and has quite a bit of issues in some parts of the car. Some parts of the car will go to bare metal and I will try to work with other parts of the car that still have good paint. I know people will argue that the correct way to do a car is to go all the way down to metal, but they are not the ones doing it. At the end of the job, if the car looks straight and the paint looks good, who cares if you went down to metal or not? The argument will still go that going down to metal will make for a really long lasting repair, but if what you have there has lasted to 10-20 years or more and was done by a pro, you can argue that what you do as an amateur may not last as long, and may not end up looking as good. If the body work lasted 10 years, it will probably last another 10-20 more...
As for the painting, doing a car pieces at a time is usually not a good idea. You really should paint the whole car in one shot. When doing a car in pieces, it is common to have issues with the color not looking the same on every panel, if you are using a metallic paint, forget about even trying to do it in pieces. I wanted to paint my car with a single stage paint, but after much reading and asking questions, I decided to do a base coat clear coat. Why? Because when you start painting with a single stage paint you basically cannot stop to correct issues that occur during the painting process, once you start you need to finish. I do not have a paint booth and I would be willing to bet you do not have one either, so stuff falling on the paint, runs, or anything else that pops up on the paint, when doing a single stage, you pretty much have to live with. On a base coat/clear coat you can stop in between coats and sand out/fix issues that pop up. You can let the base coat dry, sand off the imperfections, respray any base if you have to and then go to your clear. When doing your clear you can stop before your last coat of clear, again fix any imperfections, sand it down if you have too much orange peel, and then apply your last coat. Base coat/clear coat is much more forgiving for the amateur. At least that is the way that I understand it from the research I have done.
Tons of paint brands out there, I have a PPG dealer near me. they have the Omni, the Omni Plus, and then the high buck PPG Deltron stuff. I have heard that the Omni stuff is a cheap paint, and not very good, and that it does not cover very well, so you have to do more coats to get coverage. It seems that the Omni Plus is the sweet spot, and the PPG Deltron stuff is top of the line, great to work with but stupid expensive. There are now a bunch of online companies selling paint online, some seem to be really good quality, with very affordable pricing, so do your homework.
 
Last time I stripped, I had to answer some questions from the police... :rolleyes:

I would recommend you paint your car with your clothes on... :D
 
I am very much an amateur when it comes to painting cars, I did paint some cars when young with lacquer, but all that stuff is obsolete now. Currently doing a 1971 Mach 1 Mustang. I bought the Harbor Freight drum sander, which is a copy of the Eastwood. It does a great job at removing paint and leaving a really nice surface to work on, and it will not heat warp your panels (I guess you could heat warp them but it would really be a user error). Anyways, taking a car down to metal and starting ALL the body work again is a monumental amount of work. If you have good solid paint on your panels, nothing that is cracking, or spider webbing, it is a good idea to use that old paint as a base. Most body shops will not take a car down to metal unless the customer requests it, and pays the huge fee it will entail. If you are not a professional, and you have a body panel that looks good to great with good old paint on them (that is not lacquer), I suggest that you work over what is there. When you start going all the way to metal, what you find underneath it may be a nightmare, and doing all that body work again, especially when you are not a professional is a daunting task. Ask me how I learned this... Regrettably I have some very old paint, that is cracking, and has quite a bit of issues in some parts of the car. Some parts of the car will go to bare metal and I will try to work with other parts of the car that still have good paint. I know people will argue that the correct way to do a car is to go all the way down to metal, but they are not the ones doing it. At the end of the job, if the car looks straight and the paint looks good, who cares if you went down to metal or not? The argument will still go that going down to metal will make for a really long lasting repair, but if what you have there has lasted to 10-20 years or more and was done by a pro, you can argue that what you do as an amateur may not last as long, and may not end up looking as good. If the body work lasted 10 years, it will probably last another 10-20 more...
As for the painting, doing a car pieces at a time is usually not a good idea. You really should paint the whole car in one shot. When doing a car in pieces, it is common to have issues with the color not looking the same on every panel, if you are using a metallic paint, forget about even trying to do it in pieces. I wanted to paint my car with a single stage paint, but after much reading and asking questions, I decided to do a base coat clear coat. Why? Because when you start painting with a single stage paint you basically cannot stop to correct issues that occur during the painting process, once you start you need to finish. I do not have a paint booth and I would be willing to bet you do not have one either, so stuff falling on the paint, runs, or anything else that pops up on the paint, when doing a single stage, you pretty much have to live with. On a base coat/clear coat you can stop in between coats and sand out/fix issues that pop up. You can let the base coat dry, sand off the imperfections, respray any base if you have to and then go to your clear. When doing your clear you can stop before your last coat of clear, again fix any imperfections, sand it down if you have too much orange peel, and then apply your last coat. Base coat/clear coat is much more forgiving for the amateur. At least that is the way that I understand it from the research I have done.
Tons of paint brands out there, I have a PPG dealer near me. they have the Omni, the Omni Plus, and then the high buck PPG Deltron stuff. I have heard that the Omni stuff is a cheap paint, and not very good, and that it does not cover very well, so you have to do more coats to get coverage. It seems that the Omni Plus is the sweet spot, and the PPG Deltron stuff is top of the line, great to work with but stupid expensive. There are now a bunch of online companies selling paint online, some seem to be really good quality, with very affordable pricing, so do your homework.
As a first timer wanting to research before I dive in, this is one of the most helpful and clearly explained responses I’ve read. Thank you.
 
I just bought a 3M Scotchbrite Clean and Strip XT disc. It rips the paint off quick and its $15.
 
I second the opinion not to take it down to bare metal unless you want to potentially go down a rust chasing and body work rabbit hole that could get you to the point where you just give up. They make some really good epoxy primers these days that stick to nearly anything. I would have no worries about spraying it over the existing base coat and starting my foundation at that point instead of going all the way to bare metal.

Initially I thought that single stage would be easier for a DIY job but it really is not and is more difficult to spray.

There are a lot of highly recommended brands that aren't high dollar PPG stuff that perform very well. Just gotta do your research online and figure out what you want. If it's your first time spraying and you get expensive PPG paint, you might just wind up with a big orange peel mess if you don't get it done perfectly the first time. Problem with single stage is even if you spray it perfectly, you're already on borrowed time the second it cures.
 
I have a new Eastwood Drum sander with 6 different sanding rolls. Strip to the bare metal, and condition it. Color will be 1969 GTO Ram Air Judge Concours Red. My plan is for single stage urethane paint. Work small sections at a time, spray them with epoxy primer, go to the next section, and so on.

Your plan to strip it to the metal is solid. These old cars are 60ish years old. Who knows what was done to them back in the day when they got banged up! Do as @RustyRatRod suggested on get supplies from Southern Polyurethane. When you strip a panel, clean it with their wax and grease remover and then use their epoxy primer to seal it up before it rusts. Then do any body and filler work on top of the epoxy primer. Then use the high build primer from there. Once you're satisfied it is straight, seal it with some more of the epoxy primer thinned out according to SPU's instructions to spray it as a sealer. On the outer body of the car, you will be miles ahead if you use base coat-clear coat paint. Paint the outer body all on the same day, not a piece at a time. If you do the outside a piece at a time, it will end up 27 different colors out of the same can! :BangHead: Use the urethane under the hood, in the jambs and in the trunk. You flew helicopters....so you can paint a car! :) Good luck to you.
Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes
 
I think single stage is a great idea if you are doing a solid color. I see no reason for base clear unless it's a metallic you want to cut and polish.
Practice on some spare panels and then your good to go. With base/clear you're spending twice as much and painting your car twice...but it's your choice
 
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When you take any car down to bare metal, you will find all the body work previously done, even a survivor taken down will many times show some filer used. All that filler work will have to be done again. The question is, IS that metal under the filler rust free and how well has that filler aged? Can you do that work or do you have to pay it all done?
The body shop that will take on one of these old cars don't work cheap, and they will tell you every time, IT must go down to bare metal OR they will not guarantee the work. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I have done more than a few that were great candidates to NOT take down. I have done some surviviors and finally got them down to the factory primer and that metal below the primer was great. That prime was one there!!! I epoxy primed it, fixed the dings and scratches, urethane primer, sealer , topcoat and just like in those TV car shows.... wa-laaa DONE (just like that!) and it last forever.
I see guys all the time buying a car think it has never been painted! just like it has only 30,000 mi.!
Point is know what you are working on.
Shooting single stage is like shooting anything. know what you are working with and what you are doing.
Yes metallic in single stage is lot harder to shot than that in base. People will have problems, trying to shoot anything piece by piece. You will always have changes in temp, humidity pressure, etc. Shot the whole car.
 
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