Got my new intake

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pharmboy

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My new intake showed up today UPS...and with the #6 intake runner broken off :(. Anyone know someone who can weld it up in the Rochester, NY area? Or have a suggestion how to fix it? It's a fairly clean break right at the end of the runner where it joins the plenum.
 
New, and yet broken???
Where did it come from? They should have provided shipping insurance against damage. Check with them or UPS before doing anything that will void your claim.

Jerry
 
New to me...it came in UPS, not packed very well. I got a good enough deal on it that I could probably have it fixed and still come out very much ahead. I'm not able to file a claim on it because it was signed for by the desk clerk at the hotel I'm kinda living in since it came in while I was at work. I'll have pictures of it tonight.
 
You can still file a claim with UPS after someone signed for it.

They will probably deny it if it was poorly packed, as you said.
 
...at the hotel I'm kinda living in...

Sayyy, you're not on the run from the cops, are ya? I wouldn't want to be arrested for aiding and abetting a fugitive.
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Alright, back to the problem at hand...
You didn't say what type intake - cast iron or aluminum. Makes lots of difference. Capabilities among welders vary greatly.

Jerry
 
It is cast aluminum...and fairly decent, the break shows a very uniform, small crystal structure. It's a single break, no missing bits.
 
Alum. should be easily repaired but damn... that sucks. I'm watching and waiting for you to do this!!!!
 
Well, I took the intake down to a welding shop over lunch today...the guy stood it up on the table, pushed the pieces together and said $30, plus tax...:cheers:. Another shop in the area said it'd be $70-$120, and I'd have to bring in a cylidner head...I'd think just clamping it to a welding table would be enough to maintain alignment, don't you guys?

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Bolting it up to a head isn't a bad idea. Remember, metal expands when heated. Clamping the runners to a table does nothing to confine the manifold up where the welding and heat exchange are happening. I would hate for you to spend your $30 for the welding, only to find out later that the mounting holes don't line up on your head because of a little twisting or creeping of the metal. Probably the final thing you will want to do is have an automotive machine shop hit it with a little resurfacing to true up the face of the runners.

My two cents,
Jerry
 
But if it were attached to a head, it'd still be free at the end where the break is, correct? I don't exactly have a spare head or exhaust manifold here to use, which is a definite problem trying to go that route. I figure resurfacing would be a good idea before assembly time, just to make sure. Hopefully I can find a space to start work on building a slant over the winter to go under(next to?) this.
 
Sorry to here about you intake pharmboy.
I wish I was a tec to I could help on this, but there is some good input and advice still to come I am sure, this can be repaired and resurfaced.
Good luck bud.
 
But if it were attached to a head, it'd still be free at the end where the break is, correct?

True, but the business end of it is at the point where it attaches to the head and could potentially be a fitment problem or a source for leaks. The "meat" of the runner at its bend poses no threat for not fitting anything, nor would it leak (unless the welder doesn't do his job correctly).

I'm not saying a good welder can't do it, and that it will result in problems. I was only suggesting that to minimize the potential for problems, bolting it up is a good idea. If you don't have access to a head, then the question is moot, and you can only do what you can do.

One thing you might consider is mocking up a thick steel plate with studs correctly placed as they are on your engine's head, then bolt everything up to it and clamp it to the welding table. When my son was learning to weld from the owner of a local shop, he did all his work on a huge thick steel table, maybe 3" thick. If your welder has a steel work table, maybe he can drill into it to tap threads for the properly spaced studs (make him a template or use a new gasket). Bolt the pieces down for welding, and when done, cut off the studs and grind the table smooth again.

Your price just went up from $30, but hey, I always say, "There's more than one way to skin a cat."

Two more cents,
Jerry
 
That $30 also doesn't include the $200+$28 shipping for the intake. And $30 in tools that aren't needed to open up the mounting pads since it came already opened up...but I'm sure I'll find something that needs some large holes bored in it... I'm just gonna cross my fingers and hope for the best...since it was a nice clean break on a meaty part, the distortion should be minimal, and if it's not, there's always a trip through the surface grinder...
 
You could always screw it to a 2x4 piece of wood, and anchor it in place that way too, as an in expensive way to keep it from shifting around.
 
Oh, well, you didn't say anything about having new tools to make bigger holes. That changes everything...
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Seriously, though, I'm sure it will all work out, and I can appreciate your wanting to keep cost down. My son is now attending Texas A&M University. I don't think I have to tell you how that makes a BIG dent in the budget and available hobby funds.
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Good luck,
Jerry
 
Yeah...I just keep telling myself that the car is an investment...over and over. On the upside, the torsion bars I ordered in the middle of last month finally showed up. I'm sure my mechanic will be glad to get the bay my car's in cleared out soon. But since I got out of college, finding the finances hasn't been the hard part, since I'm young, have a decent job, and am single...but I'm only around 'home' three days or so a month, and even then I don't really have anywhere to do any serious work. Since it looks like I'll be spending the whole winter at one jobsite, I'm looking into finding garage space to work on a brand new slant...why not, right?
 
Well, $32.40 later, it's welded up...and he even repainted it.:cheers: The inside you can't even see the crack, if not for a slight amount of discoloration. I must say, this degree of customer service isn't that common. Big thumbs up for GM Welding in Rochester, NY. Oh, and we checked it with a straightedge, and it's as flat as it should be, aside from a slight taper on one side where he had to file out a ding that I hadn't noticed. Should be easy enough to seal up with the right intake gasket.

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Let's hope it seals real nice! EVERY weld pass made distorts the parent metal, no matter what it is. Weld distortion is a very powerful force.
 
Let's hope it seals real nice! EVERY weld pass made distorts the parent metal, no matter what it is. Weld distortion is a very powerful force.


Keep away from the dark side!! :snakeman:

Glad you got a good deal on the manifold and the repair!
 
Lucky you! Sounds like GM Welding made a friend out of you. Get that sucker hooked up so we can know if you got your money's worth.

Jerry
 
Who knows. This may help you a little. Your exhaust should be smooth as glass but for the intake side a little turbulance (key word is "little") keeps the air and fuel mixed and that little crack may actually help. I am just looking for a postive side to this situation.
 
I think one positive note to this whole ordeal is that he found a quality shop that can do reasonably priced repair work. Something every one of us needs.

Jerry
 
Glad to hear the good news Bud
I think you will be in good shape and keep us updated!!!
 
:angry7:*grumble, grumble*...well, I went to start putting things together last night...and guess what...the carb stud spacing is for a set of weber carb...which is about 2mm too wide for the two carbs I've got. So, today I went out and picked up a set of files, figure I'll just enlarge the bolt holes in the carb bases. Which I would have done by now, if it weren't raining all day. I also decided to pick up a set of pipe brushes and I'm gonna knock off all the unnecessary protrusions on the manifold and clean out the inside as well.
 
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