Got to rant everyone

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/6 Matt

/6 Matt

30 Degrees Crooked
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
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So I'm nearing completion on the first engine swap I've ever performed. It's a very nice '93 Plymouth Grand Voyager with a 3.3L V6 that had cracked it's number 1 piston and broke the corresponding rod. And it drove home like that too!

My sister got a brand new long block to put in it from Autozone and its made by Surefire Corp. I'm now completely pissed as I realize how much it's gonna suck to have to retorque the heads after initial startup.

The upper intake plenum has to come off which is a load of s@%t in its own, followed by the upper radiator hose, the fan, the A/C compressor (another load of s@%t), the exhuast manifolds and the rockerarm covers. I realized once we get everything out of the way to get a torque wrench on those bolts, we'll just about be ready to pull the whole d@mn motor out again!!!

If I ever have to do a job like this ever again on a vehicle any newer than the age of TBI I'm gonna have a machine shop build the motor where THEY, can run it on a dyno or so equipped enigine stand, and THEY can retorque the d@mn heads. Further more, if anybody ever asks me to do a job like this ever again on a vehicle of this age for free, I will not so politely tell them no. I don't care if they're a part of my broke@$$ family!

Tommorrow, I'm making a phone call to Surefire and I'm gonna to let loose my displeasure on a customer service rep and it's not going to be pretty. I will never purchase a new-age motor from them ever again and I think they should have the right to know.

This is a series of emoticons that describe how I feel right now. :banghead::protest::violent1::cussing::toothy2:

Ok I'm done being a whiney b$%ch

Good evening everyone.
 
Why not just fire up the motor on a engine run stand first? Or can you not drop a long block in the car?
 
I Feel your pain thats why i just crush any thing that has a 4 banger or a side ways v6 in it ! moms noen jumped time and bent some vales As soon as i seen the bent valves it was over for the neon . busted out the back glass and filled it up with scrap and off to the crusher it went
 
Here is my 2 cents...and only my 2 cents:

#1 - I guarantee that when these engines were new the factory, or dealers did not do any retorques on the heads

#2 With modern head gaskets you do not need to retorque the heads

#3 - If you are really worried about it....pull the front valve cover after the run in - it is a 5 minute job, and put a torque wrench on the front head bolts. If they move, dive into it, if they dont, put it back together and dont worry about it.
 
My only experience with an Auto Zone engine was years ago I blew my 460 in my van. Spent 3 day (Veterans Day weekend) relacing engine only to find out # 3 cyl. was burning oil bad. After alot of BS and unnecessary tests they finaly replaced my engine. Spent the weekend of Christmas re- replacing the engine. Believe me, swapping engines in a 4wd van is pretty bad once. Only thing doing it twice is I went from 3 days down to 2. At the time it was my only vehicle.
 
i worked in dodge dealers for 17 years as a tech. i have replace head gaskets and complete engines . if you follow factory torque procedure it will be fine.we never retorqued head bolts.
 
I never have had to. Just give then one last lick before you drop it in.
 
X2 - good advise.



d55dave said:
Here is my 2 cents...and only my 2 cents:

#1 - I guarantee that when these engines were new the factory, or dealers did not do any retorques on the heads

#2 With modern head gaskets you do not need to retorque the heads

#3 - If you are really worried about it....pull the front valve cover after the run in - it is a 5 minute job, and put a torque wrench on the front head bolts. If they move, dive into it, if they dont, put it back together and dont worry about it.
Click to expand...
 
As much as I'd love to say screw it on torqueing the heads, there's paint marks on the bolts so they know and if they're not retorqued the warranty is void.:banghead:
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Retorque them before you install the engine.
Click to expand...

yep, retorque them now, perhaps even add a little more. Or if by chance you have a warranty issue - not completely honest, but when you pull it for warranty, retorque them then. Seriously though, like I said, run it then pull that front cover, it is easy in the vehicle, and check the torque on it first and see if they move.

Arent they torque to yield bolts? How are you supposed to torque check them?
 
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