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oneway71

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My rebuilt motor (4.7) in my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee ltd is junk! It has 53 miles on it and the rods are knocking! I have had this motor out 3 times in the last week alone and it now needs to go back to the shop........when can I start to get frustrated?
 
oneway71 said:
My rebuilt motor (4.7) in my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee ltd is junk! It has 53 miles on it and the rods are knocking! I have had this motor out 3 times in the last week alone and it now needs to go back to the shop........when can I start to get frustrated?
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I'd say you can get frustrated anytime you want to. There's just some cars you'd like to put stick of dynamite under the hood, light the fuse, walk away from, and yell, "there! Fixed!"
 
Dynamite would be cool; but the hardware store no longer sells it! Sometimes you have way more time and $ invested than you were supposed too.

Oiling- maybe we will let the shop deal with it. I am just tired of putting it in and out.

I now have it down to a couple hours though! It would be quicker but those pesky exhaust bolts are hard to get to.
 
Since the shop did a crap job of a rebuild, you should take your car up to them and have them pull the engine!
 
I supplied them a long block and that is what they warranty. It is common practice in the industry to warranty the work you did. If they had pulled the engine they would have warrantied the pulling of it again.

Too bad warranties dont cover all the extra labor a person has when an error was made.
 
Newer Jeeps are just trouble. Plain and simple. Mine is a 4.0, though, so I have never had a motor problem. Oh, 4 liters will death knock with the best of them, but do 250k that way.
 
scamperly said:
Replace the 4.7 with the bulletproof 4.0. Problem solved.
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blackbomber said:
Newer Jeeps are just trouble. Plain and simple. Mine is a 4.0, though, so I have never had a motor problem. Oh, 4 liters will death knock with the best of them, but do 250k that way.
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Agreeing with the both of you. The AMC/Jeep 4.0 HO is one hell of an engine. BTW that death knock can be solved with new Speed Pro pistons. :-D Mine had the death knock and I found two completely wasted pistons and it still passed emissions. After the rebuild http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89636 (first photos are the trashed pistons) and 4K miles later it runs even better. 22 mpg on the highway, 16 in the city and 0-65 in less than 7 seconds at sea level. Mileage at 75 mph with a 2500 lb. + trailer dropped to about 15. It 'aint no diesel, lol.

In a 2400 mile round trip half of which was pulling that trailer loaded with tools I burned zero oil. In Wisconsin, that Jeep felt like my buddies late 80's Mustang GT in regards to acceleration. Even here in the rare air of Colorado I am very concerned about the winter snow/ice situation as the response is instantaneous, regardless of the full/part time transfer case it came with. I may need to get a second set of studded tires.

Sell that thing, get a '92-'94 Cherokee for about a grand, and you can build a 4.6 stroker motor for about 2k and you are good to go for another 200K miles easy. AND you could beat the old mustangs in a drag race no sweat..... In a 4WD Jeep no less. These older Cherokee's are very well supported by the aftermarket and parts are cheap. New fenders are under a 100 bucks and I can get a grill for about $30!

Plus, you can get massive bumpers, grill guards, roof racks, winches, etc. The Cherokee is the Lego of jeeps. :) I'm debating between these two front bumpers. The tubular one would be lighter than the stock one I think and looks cool but the second one is way old school, as am I, and would make ricers think twice about cutting in front, lol. It's made of 1/4" plate and the grill guard is 3/8" plate and .120 tube.... Bad ***.

I think I'm going for the second one.......
 
blackbomber said:
Agreed! XJ's rule.
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With a steel fist. 8)

I had a nagging rattle which I finally figured was a combo of the original Jensen speakers being loose and the crappy nylon attachment of the rear gate plastic panel. Some cheap closed cell 1/4" x 1" foam tape on the obvious contact points and drilling the panel for some 1/4" self tapping screws resolved that...... I thought.

I had a persistant knocking at speed and I thought it was my exhaust. Duh... I still had the receiver hitch in. :-D It's quiet as a mouse now with 227,000 miles. I have a total of 2800 buck in it....... Not inculding the new 5140 steel axels and a Detroit True-Trac though, lol. I gotta grab an axle bearing puller tomorrow.....

The new engine ate the old clutch plates in the diff poste haste. When those clutch plates wear on a Dana 35 the C clip axle has no pre-load and the axles move laterally about 1/4" and give an odd loose rear feel in regards to handling. The drivers side axle actually could move enough to start to eat into the pin. Bad news, but it still beats car payments and the whole upgrade cost less than two payments on my old (new)2001 Ram 1500.
 
you must have a grand cherokee cause they did not use the 4.7 in the reg. one. i too have learn way to much from the 4.7 motor.with the cap cracked rod there no way to resize them and there was only a 1mm over size bearing for them. do you have the miller tool to remove the motor. good luck.
 
blackbomber said:
Newer Jeeps are just trouble. Plain and simple. Mine is a 4.0, though, so I have never had a motor problem. Oh, 4 liters will death knock with the best of them, but do 250k that way.
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My neighnors 4.0 had the knock. He has new bearings, rockers and lifters and it wont go away.

I will mention the piston thing to him.
 
alsdemon said:
you must have a grand cherokee cause they did not use the 4.7 in the reg. one. i too have learn way to much from the 4.7 motor.with the cap cracked rod there no way to resize them and there was only a 1mm over size bearing for them. do you have the miller tool to remove the motor. good luck.
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Miller tool? Yes 2001 GC ltd. 4.7. What tool are you refering too?

I dont have any specieal tools but it takes me about 2 hours to get it out now; I have done it so many times.

I wonder if my knock is form the pistons; as one of the others stated with the 4.0.
 
Update: It has been about a month since the shop rebuilt the motor. No rod knock but timing is out.

So....as the engine shop said "make sure it is our problem before you send the motor back to us".....so I sent the Jeep to a well respected shop in the area.

This shops findings.....everything is fine electrically and the Timing is out of sync and unable to reset it with the computer. They also verified several things, fuel pressure, cats, grounds, computer, o2's etc.

So I spoke with the shop that built it again and they picked it up with a truck and towed it to their shop.
The engine builder says the coils are bad replace them. And the serpetine belt is installed backwards.

The first shop verified and tested all coils. They are well within limits. The belt was not insatalled incorrectly.

So it is going to a friends shop and going to have them fix it and I will see the engine builder in court.

Verify frustrating.
 
4.7 have 3 or 2 chains. very eazy to get installed wrong i used a fac. service manual when i reinstalled chains. i had got a 03 motor and had a 00 truck they had change the pcm from a 3 plug to a 4plug box i had to remove motor and swap the cam ring gear and pull crank and install the 00 crank ring. tool was to lift motor with out damageing the intake.it bolted to two stud behind the carb. and front went to the stud at front of intake or on the water pump houseing. rec. get a fac. service manual it was a life saver. i had a friend with a dak. and he had a c/d. lots of very inportane imfo. on it.after the chains are line up you can turn it over a 100 times and the mark will never line back up.i try for 4 hours then red it in the manual later. doh. good luck like i said before i learn way to much.there a place in fla. that sepalize in them and the new hemi motor. are you on the durango/ daktoa board. it saved me.
 
I used my version of the Miller tool. I used the same bolt locations but attached a chain & leveler.
Engine ran great after 1st rebuild except for the rod knock.
After the 2nd rebuild, for the rod, engine has several misfires and 5 ihg vacuum. Should be at 16 ihg. It also blows the ASD fuse. NAPA fix shows the ASD fuse blows when cam/crank out. Also computer showed cam/crank sync out; and was unable to reset it.

I should have it back in a few days, running hopefully; although I will have to go to court to recoup my costs from the engine builder. Next time I will purchase Jasper; they cover labor when they mess up.

I am not on any other boards.
 
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