There, I fixed it for you.
Green bearings or stock adjustable
- Thread starter Penstarpurist
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There, I fixed it for you.
I have never seen Green Bearings in any 8 3/4, ever, unless someone replaced them. All the way thru 74 when they stopped making 8 3/4 rears.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Well, then for some reason somebody put green bearings in an almost-new '70 Road Runner 8.75". The car didn't have 30K on it when I got it. My assumption was it was built that way.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
O.K. maybe I am wrong about what they came with. But the greens were in my '70 RR with under 30K on it. Not sure why or how they were in there, but I distinctly recall my friend's Dad telling us that when were ready to adjust the bearings to come and get him and he'd show us how. Well, he was surprised when there was no adjuster!
With regard to the TA/AAR cars, nothing was really stock on the ones they raced.
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I think we can all agree on THAT!
Not Calling you a liar, but I have never seen Green Bearings in an 8 3/4 unless replaced. And I have seen a lot of 8 3/4's up thru 74.
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The supposedly “best” rear end, Ferd 9 inch uses a green style bearing and it’s used from daily driving to pro-touring to auto cross. So why is it when the same style of bearing is used in a Mopar, they can’t take the side loading?
Ford 9’s have used several different bearing styles over the years. Let's see, most popular seems to be the Timken Set 20, heeeeeey, wait a minute! That's a tapered bearing!
CE-8015 - Tapered Large Axle Bearing (Set 20)
That can't be right, lemme check somewhere else...
Ford 9" Set 20 Timken Wheel Bearing-Broncograveyard.com
"This is the superior design that came stock on 1979-86 Bronco's and F150's. It is a tapered roller bearing that will work on the 1978 and prior Ford 9" 31 and 35 Spline axles.
- Single-row bearings can accommodate radial load and axial load in one direction.
- This type of bearing is suitable for use under heavy load or impact load.
- Bearings are classified into standard, intermediate and steep types, in accordance with their contact angle.
- The larger the contact angle is, the greater the bearing resistance to axial load.
- Single-row bearings can accommodate radial load and axial load in one direction.
- This type of bearing is suitable for use under heavy load or impact load.
- Bearings are classified into standard, intermediate and steep types, in accordance with their contact angle.
- The larger the contact angle is, the greater the bearing resistance to axial load.
- 1.562 I.D.
- 3.150 O.D.
- Axle bearing and seal kit for Ford 9 rear
- Includes axle bearing and seal
- Services one side
- Tapered roller design"
lemondana
BlackDart
The green style bearings have balls in them, The Ford 9 inch uses straight rollers in their bearings, at least from what I remember. I used 3 sets of Green bearings and I don't believe I got close to 10,000 miles out of any of them. I will never use another set of the Greens! Does anyone use BALL bearings on their front brake hubs? I don't think so! That went out in the 50's.
lemondana
BlackDart
Sorry, I haven't worked on a Ford in a long time. I didn't know they used tapered bearings.
If your green bearings didn't last 10k miles you either had the earlier style or you did something wrong.
I have a set of green bearings my '72 Challenger that have gone close to 70k miles, no issues at all. I prefer the tapered bearings myself, but when I swapped in the B-body 8 3/4 into my Challenger the axles that came with it had brand new green bearings already installed on them. I figured I'd run them until they wore out. They haven't yet. If/when they do they'll get replaced with tapered bearings, but the later redesigned green bearings work pretty well.
Not all of them do, most of them do come with a sealed, ball-bearing style bearing. But a bunch of them did come with tapered bearings. Even before the set 20's came out in '79 there was another tapered version of the Ford 9" bearings that came on the 3,700 lb rated 9's.
So, it's not safe to assume that just because it's a Ford 9" that it has the sealed ball-bearing style axle bearings. Especially with all the aftermarket versions of the 9" out there. Hell, Currie makes a "pro-touring" 9" that has full floating axles in it for the really crazy road race and autoX guys with deep wallets. There isn't much "ford" about it, but it's still a 9".
Tapered bearings are far better than Green. Green bearings must be used with spools and most after market Locker units. Because they do not have preload adjusters in the carrier.
When using green bearings in some cases the pre load pin must be removed from center carrier on factory center carriers or the green bearings will not last long. Most times installers never do this. They just don't know.
Also I have seen 8 3/4 rears with no adjuster on the right axle. They were using 2 left axles. When showing the guy he said don't touch it its been like that for over 30 years.
I use green bearings on Mopar Trailer queens and Drag cars. Unless there is a C-clip for side load, straight Cut bearings are to go straight.
Here is a good test. Take any car with straight cut bearings and push it side to side and you will hear the side play. With a tapered bearing you will not. They hold the side load taught and prevent slop going straight. A far better and safer design for the street.
How many of you all have seen the deformed bearing retainer from guys just pulling the flange against the housing? After the axle is bottomed and they just keep on tightening the nuts and bending the retainer .
I had one here that was pulled in so tight there was metal filings on the retainer. The flange should always push flush against the housing. If you have to pull it in with the nuts something is wrong.
JUST A SLIGHT BEND IN THE ROAD AT 65 MPH IS A LOT OF SIDE LOAD ON A BEARING
When using green bearings in some cases the pre load pin must be removed from center carrier on factory center carriers or the green bearings will not last long. Most times installers never do this. They just don't know.
Also I have seen 8 3/4 rears with no adjuster on the right axle. They were using 2 left axles. When showing the guy he said don't touch it its been like that for over 30 years.
I use green bearings on Mopar Trailer queens and Drag cars. Unless there is a C-clip for side load, straight Cut bearings are to go straight.
Here is a good test. Take any car with straight cut bearings and push it side to side and you will hear the side play. With a tapered bearing you will not. They hold the side load taught and prevent slop going straight. A far better and safer design for the street.
How many of you all have seen the deformed bearing retainer from guys just pulling the flange against the housing? After the axle is bottomed and they just keep on tightening the nuts and bending the retainer .
I had one here that was pulled in so tight there was metal filings on the retainer. The flange should always push flush against the housing. If you have to pull it in with the nuts something is wrong.
JUST A SLIGHT BEND IN THE ROAD AT 65 MPH IS A LOT OF SIDE LOAD ON A BEARING
One of the disadvantages to the tapered bears is that you will have trouble running disc brakes on the rear axle. The preload on the tapered bearings allow the axles to move slightly. I had trouble with this years ago. If the brake calipers stick sliding for any reason then it will grind one side down fast and drag.
Agreed. And also the calipers and rotors become your safety cushion for side load and failure. I believe straight cut bearings should be used with disc. I never had rear disc on a pre 72 car?
There's no trouble if you use a disk brake kit designed for the tapered bearings. DoctorDiff sells them. They're more expensive than the other internet kits which are just repurposed for Mopar use, but you get to keep the tapered bearings.
The modified Jeep Liberty rear disk brake set up Ehrenberger did for Mopar Action will also supposedly work with the tapered bearings as well. I wouldn't run that kit for other reasons, but again, you can get rear disks to work with tapered bearings. They make rear disks for Ford 9's that work with those tapered Ford bearings too.
I don’t understand why any disk brake set up can’t be used on an 8 3/4 with the stock bearings. Don’t they use them on c-clip type GM rear ends? In my experience those usually have as much or more axial play than a properly adjusted tapered Mopar style. How are the bearings different on the factory Mopar disk brakes from a big C body than the ones used on drum brakes?
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
I don't see why the bearings would affect the disc brakes either. Calipers normally are allowed to float axially.
69hemibeep
Well-Known Member
Here is my 2 cents for what its worth. Ive used both without problems, if you think about a hard corner the pressure is riding on one large tappered bearing the other side is being pulled away from the race. On a sealed bearing both bearings are taking on the side load although on smaller surfaces. Which is best? I don't know but allot of new cars use sealed bearings.
ramenth
Gratis persona
Or, if you're really convinced that you want to run disk on the *** with an 8.75" you can get the ends resized and run Ford's roller bearings...
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