Grill removal woes

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MoparCrazy78

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Good afternoon all. I'm trying to reove the grills off my 68 notchback and the a few of the small studs have sheared, which isn't a biggie. A lot of them are just spinning in the grill. The wings on the studs have broken. Gotta love a bunch of rust. So my issue is......how do i get the nuts off the studs with the grill and nose sheet metal still on the car without messing up the bezels?? Unfortunately, i don't have air tools or a torch at the house.
 

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Try grabbing the snout of the stud with a pair of mini vise grips. Since they are palnuts holding them on you should be able to remove them without worrying about damaging any threads. Soak them first with plenty of PB. Another way I have used is to take a small screwdriver and wedge it between the head of the stud and the surround, putting pressure on the stud to try to keep it from turning. Try applying a small amount of pressure by pulling the screwdriver away from the surround and against the stud to keep it from turning. I have used both of these methods on a variety of small studs with results. They'll try your patience Fer Shur!!! Good luck on your project, Geof
 
i'll give that a shot. I removed the front grill and nose assy tonight in hopes of having a better angle on some of those pesky studs. There's no way i'm reusing those studs. I'm going to check around for replacement options. Thanks Geof
 
i'll give that a shot. I removed the front grill and nose assy tonight in hopes of having a better angle on some of those pesky studs. There's no way i'm reusing those studs. I'm going to check around for replacement options. Thanks Geof

I don't think you can get replacement studs.
 
Oh boy. That's not what anyone wants to possibly face. Monday I'll call a body shop or two. They would be the only ones i know that would have a source for stuff like this.
 
I don't think you can get replacement studs.

You can't, that that ive found. you however can pull all the rivets tear it all the way down, remove the studs and replace with same size bolts from home depot or lowes get 2ce as many nuts because youll have to nut them on the grille, and than put nuts on them again when they go through the header panel, but it works. Keep an angle grinder handy, a couple of them youll have to grind down for clearance when you put the enclousure back together
 
Let me rephrase that, the phillips domed style gives you more clearance and after grinding those couple down you can still get a screw driver on em
 
already some good advice on here, but do a search for threads on here, I know where some guys/gals have done a home rebuild on them and they come out really nice.
Good luck!
 
I just may have to return the ebay find. The ones you used look like they have a corrosion resistant coating. They are half the cost as well. I so need more patience. LOL Thank you. You wouldn't happen to have any wisdom other than redrilling drums to get the bbp for our rear ends, would you? I've been thinking now that Yukon has new(newish) axles that we can cut to length, my options are many. I'd like to go with disc, but the parknig brake issue is a tough one unless you can afford high $ calipers.
 
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