1973 Dart. These look and fit differently than the originals. DO THEY STILL WORK? Tie rod ends and pitman arm good but some boots are bad. Got a set of Energy Suspension replacements according to what they say should be right for my car. They seem too tall and don't fit well around the horizontal part of the tie rod end. Energy Suspension #9.13101 G
Has anyone used Energy Suspension tie rod end boots?
- Thread starter Lasalle
- Start date
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dano
Evil Handy Man
I have. They are universal so fit from part to part will likely vary. As long as they seal out dirt and keep grease in.
I’ve used them as well. There are several different sizes available, so it’s possible you don’t have the best size. As has been pointed out they are generic, and just because that’s the part number listed for the car doesn’t mean it’s actually the best fit.
Here's a page from Moog that has dimensions and part numbers for aftermarket dust boots. Measure yours, find the closest match on the chart, and Google the manufacturer and part number.
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp
I don't see why poly type boots are needed on tie rod ends. I'd use the stock rubber type. They fit much better. They don't have the stress on them like control arm or strut rod bushing have or rear spring eye bushings for that matter.
That's a good question. Not sure if anyone has them with the steel ring on the boot. Maybe Moog, PST or Mevotech sells just the boots.
I used the energy suspension parts without issue. It’s been a few years with them. As said above, as long as they keep the water dirt and road grime out, your good to go.
I'm just overthinking this, as usual. What about the boots over the torsion rod ends? The new ones from Energy Suspension rely on stretch to grip the socket and stay in place. Do they stay in place? The originals had a raised ridge in a groove to stay in place.
“Torsion Rod end?”
A term I made up. One end of the torsion rod goes into the lower control arm. The other goes into a socket in the frame. This socket is covered by a rubber boot to keep grease in and dirt out of the socket. The box says "torsion bar dust boot".
Excellent!
I haven’t used there stuff on the T bar. Just OE/resto stuff.
I’ve used the poly torsion bar boots before, have sets on my Challenger, Dart and Duster. They won’t move around. They’re a lot thicker and more durable than the rubber boots. Installing them is actually kind of a pain, because the poly is more resistant to deformation getting them over the hex ends of the torsion bar is a bit of a trick. I heat the boots in boiling water so they’re more pliable and then use an ample amount of grease on the hexes.
Not sure how it is with stock size torsion bars, but on the 1.12” and 1.06” bars I’ve installed them on just sliding them down the bar once they’re over the hexes still takes some work. Mine have never moved by themselves.
Not sure how it is with stock size torsion bars, but on the 1.12” and 1.06” bars I’ve installed them on just sliding them down the bar once they’re over the hexes still takes some work. Mine have never moved by themselves.
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