a 440 in a B body with headers is no walk in the park, either. Especially if they're Hookers. Starter has to go in with them, spark plug changes are a joke.
It completely depends on the car, but I'd only drop a set of headers on a car that spins RPM and only go with equal length, so they scavenge properly, which is what they are designed for.
I've debated on doing a 3+3 into 2 on my 240Z, because it doesn't impede on fitment, plug changes or anything, and wrapping them. They look mean on a car that is modified to use them, but I've also been told that the factory 240Z manifold is excellent for flow, so I might drop the idea on it's ***, depending on the CWC blank I get cut by my friend, who makes cams.
The header I'm looking at for that car is a true balanced, equal length and is about $1G. It's critical on those cars, though, because they have two separate intake manifolds with two carbs that need to be balanced and the engine redlines at 7000 on stock points ignition, so individual cylinder scavenging is critical.
They only help on the high RPM end, so total HP/ TQ increase doesn't reflect on used HP/ TQ, if you're just driving around town.
My Datsun is going to be track prepped for SCCA, for when I do hit the track, so I may see a use out of it, but I'm wondering if the gains I'm looking for couldn't be had out of honing the manifold and getting a good set of twice pipes with a crossover.
Headers on an A body are useless for a street car. The money spent on ones worth using kill the idea of the low dollar and low RPM operating range.
I'll stick with a good pair of bigger manifolds on a street car, even ported, before I decide to go with a header.