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dd386

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1971 Plymouth Scamp 360 small block the motor mount drivers side has broke again ? Can anybody help me get the correct motor mount or kit it or repair advice. I can't find anyone to fix the mount correctly . Steering wheel is shaking with clunking noise. I would appreciate any help that is serious not some B.S. answer.
Thank you

Screenshot_20250704_153302_Gallery.jpg
 
1971 Plymouth Scamp 360 small block the motor mount drivers side has broke again ? Can anybody help me get the correct motor mount or kit it or repair advice. I can't find anyone to fix the mount correctly . Steering wheel is shaking with clunking noise. I would appreciate any help that is serious not some B.S. answer.
Thank you

View attachment 1716427559
That clunking may mean the mount to the k member is broken. If memory serves the steering box & motor mount on the K member is connected or one piece. I broke all these welds on my challenger k member and the steering was doing what your is doing. Crawl under it and take a look. I swapped out my k member as I do not weld. May be time for a torque strap.
 
You need to tell us what you've got.
Is it a slant 6 k frame with adapter mounts (Schumacher/TransDapt), or the V8 k frame?
What mounts have you tried so far?
 
I hope this helps here are the photos
I don't see any cracks on the k member

20250707_190359.jpg


20250707_190408.jpg


20250707_190427.jpg
 
I have no idea what mounts or v8 kit ?
Photos are drivers side
 
Ok, if I'm looking at that right, the top of the picture id the front of the driver's side of the engine. If that's the case, the motor mount bracket should be on the REAR side of the mount ears on the engine, I believe. I wonder if it's possible you have the brackets on the wrong sides of the engine?
 
Put the hood up.

Get in the car and start it up.

Make sure the e brake is set

Plant your foot in the brake.

Put the car in drive

Give the car some gas slowly and watch for the engine to rise on the driver's side.

If no movement put the car in reverse and do the same. Look for the engine to rise on the passenger side.

If no movement the mounts are fine
 
Ok I will check for rise or no rise and report back.
I don't understand why I have a clunky steering wheel making noise?
What a mess
 
1971 Plymouth Scamp 360 small block the motor mount drivers side has broke again ? Can anybody help me get the correct motor mount or kit it or repair advice. I can't find anyone to fix the mount correctly . Steering wheel is shaking with clunking noise. I would appreciate any help that is serious not some B.S. answer.
Thank you

View attachment 1716427559

When is the steering wheel shaking? When is it clunking?

Because more than likely the engine mounts are not the cause of that. And on that note, your engine mounts do not appear to be in terrible shape although you still need to check that.

More than likely your clunky/shaking steering is a worn out coupler, tie rod end, pitman arm etc...
Ok, if I'm looking at that right, the top of the picture id the front of the driver's side of the engine. If that's the case, the motor mount bracket should be on the REAR side of the mount ears on the engine, I believe. I wonder if it's possible you have the brackets on the wrong sides of the engine?

Yeah on my '71 the brackets were on the rear side of the mounts. But unless the steering column is hitting something all that's going to do is shift the engine backward by the thickness of the ears. It shouldn't hurt the mounts any.
 
Check to see if your steering box ears are broken. The box mounts to the kframe with 3 12 point bolts. I remember back in the day one of the box mounts (aluminum manual box) broke on mine and it clunked when turning, as it was lifting the box and the slamming down.
 
Had a van lose two of the three steering box bolts....a sketchy situation indeed.
Im not keen on armchair quarterbacking this one. This guy should shout out his relative location and let a local vintage mopar guy get a peek at his current problem, for safetys sake.
 
A local mopar guy installed or replaced the drivers side mount . Very messed up situation. In my area there really isn't a mechanic who wants to repair problems.
I wish there was someone who could just tell me what is wrong and repair it.
 

A local mopar guy installed or replaced the drivers side mount . Very messed up situation. In my area there really isn't a mechanic who wants to repair problems.
I wish there was someone who could just tell me what is wrong and repair it.

Well, if you want someone to tell you what’s wrong on here you’re going to have to be a lot more descriptive about what you have and what’s going on.

If you’re not all that mechanically inclined, pictures of the steering box and steering box mount (on the K frame) would be helpful. Pictures of the coupler won’t really help, but if you have someone turn the wheel back and forth you can watch the coupler and see if there’s a bunch of play between the steering shaft and coupler.

If you can describe when the steering is shaking, what you’re doing when it’s making a clunking noise, if there’s a bunch of play in the steering wheel and any general things with how the car steers (wanders, pulls, tracks, etc) then we may be able to help narrow things down. The better your description and willingness to try some things the better the help will be.

Otherwise if you just want to hand it off to someone to fix you’re going to need a good mechanic that you can trust. And for these old cars that’s not always all the easy to find, and usually very expensive for the specialists.
 
A number of things in that picture jump out at me.
1751935195252.png

First, as RRR mentioned, the motor mount brackets bolt to the rear of the engine "ears" (yellow arrow) not to the front (blue arrow). Second, that insulator (red circle) is waay too thick and is making the engine sit too high, possibly contributing to the clunking you are experiencing due to something hitting because of the mislocation. The factory insulator is shown below:
1751935384636.png

Notice how thin it is compared to the one you have installed.
For that matter, something doesn't look right with the mount brackets themselves... B/E body brackets?
A body brackets shown below (pic stolen from a killerslant ad):
1751936306544.png
1751937224992.png

In summary, the incorrect insulators cause the engine to sit too high, the brackets on the front of the engine mount ears are forcing the engine rearward, the wrong brackets are forcing the insulators into a twist (check the red circle again), and the clunking and steering shaking could well be caused by the engine now hitting things it shouldn't- steering column, tie rod ends & steering center link, etc. Another thing to check would be your transmission mount- with your engine being forced excessively rearward, that would put your tranny mount into excessive tension and could have failed; causing clunking and could easily feel like a steering shake...
By the way, is that a crack in the engine mount or just a hideous factory weld (green arrow)?
 
i understand that it's tight in there and the angles suck, but those pictures don't really tell us much.

if you can you get more from other angles and better light, the problem may become more apparent.
 
A number of things in that picture jump out at me.
View attachment 1716427598
First, as RRR mentioned, the motor mount brackets bolt to the rear of the engine "ears" (yellow arrow) not to the front (blue arrow). Second, that insulator (red circle) is waay too thick and is making the engine sit too high, possibly contributing to the clunking you are experiencing due to something hitting because of the mislocation. The factory insulator is shown below:
View attachment 1716427599
Notice how thin it is compared to the one you have installed.
For that matter, something doesn't look right with the mount brackets themselves... B/E body brackets?
A body brackets shown below (pic stolen from a killerslant ad):
View attachment 1716427604
In summary, the incorrect insulators cause the engine to sit too high, the brackets on the front of the engine mount ears are forcing the engine rearward, the wrong brackets are forcing the insulators into a twist (check the red circle again), and the clunking and steering shaking could well be caused by the engine now hitting things it shouldn't- steering column, tie rod ends & steering center link, etc. Another thing to check would be your transmission mount- with your engine being forced excessively rearward, that would put your tranny mount into excessive tension and could have failed; causing clunking and could easily feel like a steering shake...
By the way, is that a crack in the engine mount or just a hideous factory weld (green arrow)?
I think those are truck biscuits.
 
Like RRR said. Brackets mounted incorrectly. Wrong mounts. Check brackets. Check RHS bracket as well can't tell from pic if it's wrong as well.
 
First of all I can't thank all who responded to help me with this situation. All of your expertise is very much appreciated.

Update this morning I started the Scamp put e brake on pushed down break pedal
Put trans in drive and the engine raised up to the right ? Then the same procedure in reverse and no lift at all?

I have the Scamp back in the transmission shop today.The trans is leaking from tail shaft speedometer entrance and pan. Had the shop put a deep pan speed master aluminum with ATI synthetic fluid F type.
Drove the car home last week and my garage was covered with trans fluid.
The shift now seems to lost that hard shift positive jump forward and chirp the tires. Now no tire chirp or hard shift?
I guess murphy is back following me around as usual. What the hek hopefully all things Scamp will.work.out. Expect the worst and hope for the best
Hopefully nothing else fails

I love my Plymouth Scamp and always have been a mopar guy. Had 71 charger in 1978 banana yellow 318 . 727 slap stick first car 500 bucks. 1973 Dodge Challenger FC7 Plum crazy 408 Stroker 5 speed Trem. 391 posi.
Bad ***
 
First of all I can't thank all who responded to help me with this situation. All of your expertise is very much appreciated.

Update this morning I started the Scamp put e brake on pushed down break pedal
Put trans in drive and the engine raised up to the right ? Then the same procedure in reverse and no lift at all?

I have the Scamp back in the transmission shop today.The trans is leaking from tail shaft speedometer entrance and pan. Had the shop put a deep pan speed master aluminum with ATI synthetic fluid F type.
Drove the car home last week and my garage was covered with trans fluid.
The shift now seems to lost that hard shift positive jump forward and chirp the tires. Now no tire chirp or hard shift?
I guess murphy is back following me around as usual. What the hek hopefully all things Scamp will.work.out. Expect the worst and hope for the best
Hopefully nothing else fails

I love my Plymouth Scamp and always have been a mopar guy. Had 71 charger in 1978 banana yellow 318 . 727 slap stick first car 500 bucks. 1973 Dodge Challenger FC7 Plum crazy 408 Stroker 5 speed Trem. 391 posi.
Bad ***
you will see it immediately when you do the brake torque test for broken motor mounts. I had a slant 6 that the valve cover would raise so high it hit the bottom of the hood. BROKEN PASSENGER SIDE MOTOR MOUNT! Get the correct mounts, insulator biscuit and mount them on the engine casting ears correctly like RRR and the professor advised and you should be golden.
 
I have no idea what to look for or what specific mounts or how they attach
I'm not mechanically inclined.
I ordered a.set of.motor mounts for the Scamp they were wrong this has been a dilemma since I have owned the car.
I wish I had more knowledge and not blowing in the wind
 
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