Help ASAP

[Mike69cuda]

A lot of new mounts are crap and break very easy. I got tired of replacing them.

I took a new motor mount and knocked out one of the bolts. That took a little work. Ground & drilled it out as I remember.

Then I put a carriage bolt all the way through a tack welded the head so it wouldn’t turn. Ground down the head just a little.

Put it in with a nylon locking nut and left the nut just a little loose.

Now I have a solid mount that will never break again, but still sits on rubber so it doesn’t vibrate. Fairly easy and costs nothing.

 

[Jeff Seighman]

I put Shumacher poly loc mounts on my 1970 dart years ago and never looked back but I don't think they are available anymore.

 

[RustyRatRod]

When it makes good power and you drive like its a competition, yes you do!
Been a solid motor mount proponent for 20 years.

Well sure, but if he just wants it repaired right, then no.

 

[dd386]

I appreciate everybody's help
This helps so much when I get a local to put in the mount or mounts
I can show the local mechanic the pics that were send for guidance

 

[4spdragtop]

Trying to be positive here, but you had better get someone that is Mopar experienced. This could have been avoided if so.

I appreciate everybody's help
This helps so much when I get a local to put in the mount or mounts
I can show the local mechanic the pics that were send for guidance

 

[Kendog 170]

Trying to be positive here, but you had better get someone that is Mopar experienced. This could have been avoided if so.

Easier said than done for me. I have had a stumble forever on my 340. Tried everything. Transfer slot adjustments, timing and curve and blaa
blaa blaa. Can't find anyone near me that can help.

 

[4spdragtop]

I understand 100%, I'm in same boat with electrical. Bride asked me to take to shop...NOPE, I'm not paying $100/hr to get a shoulder shrug, so it sits again lol.
Just getting a "local" to install motor mount could be a shoulder shrug moment....

Easier said than done for me. I have had a stumble forever on my 340. Tried everything. Transfer slot adjustments, timing and curve and blaa
blaa blaa. Can't find anyone near me that can help.

 

[crackedback]

This isn't hard. You have pictures that show WHERE the isolator/biscuit stud should be in relation to the block ears. bracket on the wrong side of ears to compensate. Thick biscuits ugh It's a clusterfuck.
Comments about so much info, can't make heads or tails.

YOU HAVE THE WRONG BRACKET ON THE DRIVERS SIDE.

Easy to see in the pic.

Good luck

 

[like_A_pike]

I appreciate everybody's help
This helps so much when I get a local to put in the mount or mounts
I can show the local mechanic the pics that were send for guidance

Welcome to the world of old car ownership! One of the nuances of having one AND driving it is that stuff is going to need replacing. That’s true even when the parts are correct and in properly. I only get around 5k miles per year on mine and it constantly needs something! Shops around here are getting well over $100/hr. There is no way I could swing that all the time. This seems like a great first job to get into fixing things. I use a floor jack and a piece of wood right up against the oil pan rail. Make sure it’s flat and pushing against the pan bolts. Not the pan. Lift the weight off of the mount, remove it, and replace the proper biscuit in the right position. One side at a time. Harbor freight is good for inexpensive tools too if you need them. Good luck, nice ride. I love the color…

 

[RustyRatRod]

I appreciate everybody's help
This helps so much when I get a local to put in the mount or mounts
I can show the local mechanic the pics that were send for guidance

I'm sayin this with all the car guy love and respect that I can, so don't take it personally. You have said more than once you're not mechanically inclined. So what were you thinking buying an old car? You are going to HAVE to learn some basics here. You've got to have skin in the game or else, you'll end up getting taken advantage of by unscrupulous people looking to make a buck. What I recommend is hopping over to mymopar.com and see if they have a factory service manual for your car. It's a free download. Then, don't just let it take up drive space in your machine. READ the damn thing! That way you can learn something and not be 100% at someone else's mercy when your car needs repairs. You can learn to do simple things yourself. These old gals ain't much more than 4 wheels and a motor. Saying you're not mechanically inclined is a cop out. None of us were either, until we learned it. And it's a cop out in the worst way, because you're the one who it will ultimately hurt. I wish we were local. I'd invite you over and we could work on it together and I'd show you some basics. As others have said, the mount situation isn't a difficult one. Get that download and read through it. You'll learn more than you think.

 

[dd386]

Professor or anyone else will this kit work for the 1971 Scamp 360

 

[dd386]

The Scamp was born with a 318

 

[Professor Fate]

Professor or anyone else will this kit work for the 1971 Scamp 360

View attachment 1716428187

Yes, it should work- but OMG, at that price they'd better be made of gold. I'd either post an ad in the "parts wanted" section here, or if you've got to have new get one of these:
'67-72 A-Body V8 K-member to 340/360

 

[crackedback]

The Scamp was born with a 318

Doesn't matter. The K frame member is engine related. You have a SB 273-360 K frame.

The brackets on the engine are the issue along with the insulators/rubber mounts. You have what looks like a pass side bracket (based on where the isolator stud is located) on the drivers side. Whatever it is, it's WRONG. Look at the bracket in the ad you posted. The bracket on right is the drivers side. Notice the isolator isn't centered, it's set closer to the left side as viewed (towards front of car). Look at the one currently on your car, it's not oriented the same (yours is towards rear of car)

Look at the pics posted early in this thread of a OEM bracket. Same deal, isolator stud location left of center.

If the place Professor linked (engine-swaps) has those brackets/mounts for 189, that's a decent deal as the OEM brackets sell for 150ish now.
Summit has these.

Start getting your hands dirty...

 

[Dartswinger70]

where are the solid biscuits sold at?

 

[crackedback]

where are the solid biscuits sold at?

moroso 62540

 

[jeff alder]

What is FSM and isn't there a easier way to order a.drivers side mount and be done with this part.

I would replace both sides with the correct parts. Then you will have the correct biscuit on both sides. A matched set like the example I gave you is a simple solution to your problem. You probably don't want your engine sitting in there "Cockeyed"

 

[Mtrhead]

I'm thinking the car came with a slant 6K member and he's got one of those Schumacher kits that uses a thicker mount on the driver's side....but has it on backwards

 

[Dana67Dart]

I'm thinking the car came with a slant 6K member and he's got one of those Schumacher kits that uses a thicker mount on the driver's side....but has it on backwards

I thought that too, but the op stated the car is a factory 318 car

 

[Swinger 340]

I have no idea what mounts or v8 kit ?
Photos are drivers side

Yes, the driver's side is the torque side, if you are going forward. I had a problem with a 340 in my 72' Dodge B300, splitting mounts several times and I then installed a chain from the K member and engine at the mount ears on the block. Solved the problem. If I am seeing right, it looks like the mount on the k member is split. I never seen that before. Is it the k member to match the engine? I would not weld the block, but would remove the engine and have a completely new reinforce block replace the one you have now. The chain will also help.

 

[MILO]

MOTOR MOUNTS, MOPAR

Chrysler Motor Mounts, .187" Zinc Plated Steel, Two Per Pack, Replaces OEM No. 2806779

www.moroso.com

Couple different choices solid or rubber with a lifting stopper

https://www.holley.com/products/engine_swap_parts/mounts_and_crossmembers/engine_isolator_mounts/parts/24095LKW

 

[Swinger 340]

I'm sayin this with all the car guy love and respect that I can, so don't take it personally. You have said more than once you're not mechanically inclined. So what were you thinking buying an old car? You are going to HAVE to learn some basics here. You've got to have skin in the game or else, you'll end up getting taken advantage of by unscrupulous people looking to make a buck. What I recommend is hopping over to mymopar.com and see if they have a factory service manual for your car. It's a free download. Then, don't just let it take up drive space in your machine. READ the damn thing! That way you can learn something and not be 100% at someone else's mercy when your car needs repairs. You can learn to do simple things yourself. These old gals ain't much more than 4 wheels and a motor. Saying you're not mechanically inclined is a cop out. None of us were either, until we learned it. And it's a cop out in the worst way, because you're the one who it will ultimately hurt. I wish we were local. I'd invite you over and we could work on it together and I'd show you some basics. As others have said, the mount situation isn't a difficult one. Get that download and read through it. You'll learn more than you think.

Rusty, you almost said it but stopped a little short. We, the Mopar family has many clubs out there and I'm sure in your hometown also. Not sure? Go to a local car show and you will find some club member to help. Just be careful with the part grabbers. A camera says a million words. Take pictures, their memory is better than yours.

 

[Woody500]

I think those are truck biscuits.

I've seen a post on this forum recommending using the taller biscuits for steering or header clearance.

 

[Woody500]

A lot of new mounts are crap and break very easy. I got tired of replacing them.

I took a new motor mount and knocked out one of the bolts. That took a little work. Ground & drilled it out as I remember.

Then I put a carriage bolt all the way through a tack welded the head so it wouldn’t turn. Ground down the head just a little.

Put it in with a nylon locking nut and left the nut just a little loose.

Now I have a solid mount that will never break again, but still sits on rubber so it doesn’t vibrate. Fairly easy and costs nothing.

Carriage Bolt is not grade 5, the minimum
strength automotive bolt for any application under

A lot of new mounts are crap and break very easy. I got tired of replacing them.

I took a new motor mount and knocked out one of the bolts. That took a little work. Ground & drilled it out as I remember.

Then I put a carriage bolt all the way through a tack welded the head so it wouldn’t turn. Ground down the head just a little.

Put it in with a nylon locking nut and left the nut just a little loose.

Now I have a solid mount that will never break again, but still sits on rubber so it doesn’t vibrate. Fairly easy and costs nothing.

Carraige bolts are Hardware Grade, Grade 2 or softer and Grade 5 is the minimum strength Automotive fastener for ' High Stress' applications. You can tell the difference by using a fine file & cutting a small slot with Corner of File. Grade 8 is usually the hardest(some Aircraft & Specialty are harder)
I would bet the stud you cut out of new mount was Grade 8, so you've effectively made that mount weaker, and under tension that Carriage Bolt WILL stretch and eventually fail, so you had better run a Torque Strap or you'll get a big surprise.
All you saw years ago was a piece of chain, every Hot Car had them then.
Also saw that Rod End in a post & that style rod end notoriously weak, look at top of it in pic, not much metal above sphere of joint. Seen those break & might be engineered to break for certain reasons. The Clevis style on the bottom is bullet proof. I'd bet he used that cheap rod end to help alignment. Better to use Clevis & space it properly.
Or Old School Era Correct Chain!

 

[Woody500]

Easier said than done for me. I have had a stumble forever on my 340. Tried everything. Transfer slot adjustments, timing and curve and blaa
blaa blaa. Can't find anyone near me that can help.

I've wondered if FABO has a 'Seach near Home' feature to find local members.