I have never tried this but, can you check timing while cranking and not starting? It seems like it should work as the light fires from the #1 plug and the mark should be TDC. My engine is starting but backfiring out the carb and doesnt sound good. I was alone so no one to crank while I turn the distributor. I tought maybe I could just run the light to see if it is close or which direction to turn the dist.
HELP! check timing while cranking ????
- Thread starter Dustedu2
- Start date
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It needs to be runnin. Sounds like the timing may be retarded.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Some lights may trigger, and some may trigger erratically, giving you incorrect, or rather, "jumpy" readings.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE to time any engine "static" close enough to RUN WELL
If you have points dist, do this: Rotate the engine, no1 ready to fire, by removing no1 plug, and bump engine until it "starts" to blow your finger out. If you are not experienced, you may have to bump around a couple of times. When you are sure your finger is feeling compression, then LOOK AT the marks, and bump the engine 'til it finishes "coming up" to the marks, about where you want advanced timing, say, 10BTC or so for a stock cam.
Next, loosen the dist. and rotate it RETARDED until the points closed, next, do one of two things:
A Hook a 12V test lamp from points to ground (neg side of coil) and turn key to "run." Slowly rotate dist. ADVANCED until the lamp just lights. Check your work, tighten 'er down
B If you have done the above and get experienced, you can do the same thing WITHOUT a lamp. If out of sun, look for spark when points open. You can also "rig" a plug or gap from the coil wire, and watch or LISTEN for spark
IF YOU HAVE electronic ignition, you can visually set dist. close enough to run by setting reluctor wheel at center of pickup core, and IF YOU PRACTICE you can also "look for spark" as above by first retarding, then rotate dist. "to advance" and look for spark. Do this several times, going SLOWER with dist. rotation each time. You should, with a little practice, get fairly close "enough to run" with this method.
(Small block V8 and /6 dists rotate CW, so advance is CCW. BB and RB rotate CCW, so advance is CW)
Some other considerations:
What is the condition of the engine, is it worn enough that the cam drive may have slipped?
Maybe the dist is badly worn, advance mechanism stuck, etc?
Factory dampers ARE TWO PIECE with a rubber injection in between. THEY CAN SLIP which makes your factory timing marks incorrect. THIS IS EASY to check
Get / buy or make a piston stop:
Remove the no1 plug, make sure the piston is down far enough, and install in the hole. Disconnect the battery ground for safety. Wrench the engine around until it stops. Make a temporary mark on the balancer EXACTLY under TDC on the timing tab.
Next, rotate the engine the OPPOSITE direction, until it stops. Make a second mark on the wheel as above.
You will now have two marks some distance apart. True TDC will be halfway between the marks, and of course if the factory mark is correct,-- that is where it will be.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE to time any engine "static" close enough to RUN WELL
If you have points dist, do this: Rotate the engine, no1 ready to fire, by removing no1 plug, and bump engine until it "starts" to blow your finger out. If you are not experienced, you may have to bump around a couple of times. When you are sure your finger is feeling compression, then LOOK AT the marks, and bump the engine 'til it finishes "coming up" to the marks, about where you want advanced timing, say, 10BTC or so for a stock cam.
Next, loosen the dist. and rotate it RETARDED until the points closed, next, do one of two things:
A Hook a 12V test lamp from points to ground (neg side of coil) and turn key to "run." Slowly rotate dist. ADVANCED until the lamp just lights. Check your work, tighten 'er down
B If you have done the above and get experienced, you can do the same thing WITHOUT a lamp. If out of sun, look for spark when points open. You can also "rig" a plug or gap from the coil wire, and watch or LISTEN for spark
IF YOU HAVE electronic ignition, you can visually set dist. close enough to run by setting reluctor wheel at center of pickup core, and IF YOU PRACTICE you can also "look for spark" as above by first retarding, then rotate dist. "to advance" and look for spark. Do this several times, going SLOWER with dist. rotation each time. You should, with a little practice, get fairly close "enough to run" with this method.
(Small block V8 and /6 dists rotate CW, so advance is CCW. BB and RB rotate CCW, so advance is CW)
Some other considerations:
What is the condition of the engine, is it worn enough that the cam drive may have slipped?
Maybe the dist is badly worn, advance mechanism stuck, etc?
Factory dampers ARE TWO PIECE with a rubber injection in between. THEY CAN SLIP which makes your factory timing marks incorrect. THIS IS EASY to check
Get / buy or make a piston stop:
Remove the no1 plug, make sure the piston is down far enough, and install in the hole. Disconnect the battery ground for safety. Wrench the engine around until it stops. Make a temporary mark on the balancer EXACTLY under TDC on the timing tab.
Next, rotate the engine the OPPOSITE direction, until it stops. Make a second mark on the wheel as above.
You will now have two marks some distance apart. True TDC will be halfway between the marks, and of course if the factory mark is correct,-- that is where it will be.
Thanks, I will get a helper so I can turn dist while cranking and go from there. New rebuild, The only questionable part is the carb. Bought from a guy who was running it prior to me getting it. He ran it while his stock carb was being restored. MSD Distributor 6AL box.
turn Clockwise or counter clockwise to correct if retarded?
COme to think of it, I did notice the 4 screws/bolts on each end of the carb (think that hold the bowls on) were finger tight (almost loose) and I did tighten those snug. Wonder why they were like that??
Counter clockwise for a SB.
Set the damper mark at about 30 btdc, hook up a timing light, turn on ignition and slowly turn the distributor until you see the flash. That should get you close to fire it.
If it's a flat tappets, you want it to fire RIGHT AWAY and get it up to 2000-2500!
Roller it doesn't really matter.
Set the damper mark at about 30 btdc, hook up a timing light, turn on ignition and slowly turn the distributor until you see the flash. That should get you close to fire it.
If it's a flat tappets, you want it to fire RIGHT AWAY and get it up to 2000-2500!
Roller it doesn't really matter.
Thanks, it is a roller.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
You can crank it/start it from under the hood by jumping power from the top post on the starter relay to the brown wire that follows it down to the starter. If the key is on in the car it will start and stay running.
Oh and make sure you are on #1 firing, not #6 when lining up the damper mark.
I have done that, even though I know it's going to spark, it still scares the crap out of me. lol, Thanks
Will do, Thanks
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