Help Identifing what year 8 3/4 rear end???

[johnmucci]

Hi, I am trying to order rear axle brake lines for my 66 dart that I am putting an 8 3/4 rear end that I bought. Is there anyway to tell what year the housing is????? I called right stuff and they are not sure which year I have. Thanks, John

 

[Demon 408]

Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4" D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"

 

[johnmucci]

Thanks! another question?? I have been told that they did not put an 8 3/4 rear end in an A body until 67? also when I looked at Year One and Laysons websites they show 67-69 70-72 etc...????? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[duster731]

It doesn't matter the width would tell you the yr and all parts interchange with the rear ends... What brake lines are you ordering you can just bend your own and get the metal lines from a local auto store

 

[DusterDriven]

i'll be honest dun worry about finding a perfect fit find a 8 3/4 rear end FIRST the thing can be cut or lengthened =) <3 hope that helps.... just find someone who can do it... or if you live in the u.s. I know a place in virginia that can size it for you =) the place is named "Rye Vally" located in sugar grove

 

[DusterDriven]

It doesn't matter the width would tell you the yr and all parts interchange with the rear ends... What brake lines are you ordering you can just bend your own and get the metal lines from a local auto store

this guy is also right a rear end is a rear end in a classic =) A-body = A-body DUH! my duster is half 71 demon half 73 sport dart and all 75 duster =)


none the less I have a 7 1/4 rear end for sell you can MAKE a 8 1/4 out of through rye valley =)

 

[johnmucci]

they are the rear axle brake lines that go from each wheel cylinder to the tee block on the housing. I am not doing the work and my wrench turner said " buying the stainless lines are the best way to go and he doesn't have some sort of flaring tool?? to make em"... ???????

 

[65 Dartman]

Is there anyway to tell what year the housing is?????

As far as I know there is an "early" housing and a "late" housing. Once has the junction block real close to the center of the housing and the other has it farther on down the tube - just don't know which is which. FYI A Body 8.75s appear on real late 65s equipped with the 273/235 motor and a 4 speed. I parted out a 7/23/65 273/235 4 speed Dart with the original 8.75 under it.

 

[duster731]

Making your owns the easiest get a cheap flaring kit from a parts store like harbor frieght or any store like that then at the auto store buy a couple ss brake lines and bend away I took the brake lines off of a 8 3/4 out of a truck and put em on my b bdoy 8 3/4 rear and no problem at all,
Then for the rear rubber brake hose I ordered one from autozone....

 

[johnmucci]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]QRA18[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-3] Stainless-steel 2-piece rear-axle brake lines fit 1970-1972 A-body with 8-1/4" or 8-3/4" rear axle. [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]$49.95[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]QRA19[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-3] Stainless-steel 2-piece rear-axle brake lines fit 1973 A-body with 8-1/4" or 8-3/4" rear axle. [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]$49.95[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]QRA35[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-3] Stainless-steel 2-piece rear-axle brake lines fit 1964-1969 A-body with 7-1/4" or 8-1/4" rear axle. [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]$49.95[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]QRA6[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-3] Stainless-steel 2-piece rear-axle brake lines fit 1967-1969 A-body with 8-3/4" rear axle. [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]$49.95[/SIZE][/FONT]​

 

[discharger1332]

id say take measurements, then get the specs of each kit and go from there. good luck. i need to make some, myself

 

[65 Dartman]

I'd say Year One's info is a little off - no A Body's had an 8 1/4 until 73. Where did they get the idea their QRA35 (64 to 69) had an 8.25? A 7.25 or 8.75 yes

 

[johnmucci]

I would agree with you on that DartMan.. I just found this from the internet
what do you think???
Mopar Rear Axle
Identified by casting number & number of cover bolts. The 8.75 (8 3/4) rear end LOADS FROM THE FRONT and IS THE ONLY REAR END THAT DOESN'T HAVE A REAR COVER.

Casting #​

Year​

Body​

Size​

Notes​

2070051 1960 - 71 A 7.25 9 bolt cover 2070062 1970 - 71 A 7.25 3507881 1972 - 74 A 7.25 2852905 1969 - 70 B 8.25 10 bolt cover 3723598 1971 - 74 B 8.25 3723599 1971 - 74 B 8.25 1634985 1957 - 67 ABCD 8.75 10 studs/no rear cover 1820657 1958 - 64 C 8.75 2070741 1964 - 74 ABCE 8.75 2070742 1959 - 68 BCD 8.75 2881489 1969 - 74 ABCE 8.75 3507890 1973 - 74 B 9.25 12 bolt cover 3507891 1973 - 74 B 9.25 Dana 60 1966 - 72 B 9.75 10 bolt cover Dana 60 1970 - 71 E 9.75

 

[cosgig]

The early A body 8 3/4" will have the brass junction block for the rear lines almost on the hump of the drivers side. Starting in 1970, the junction block was moved from almost on the hump to a location on the drivers side tube about 4 inches from the hump area, hence the 2 different line applications. If you are using a 1970 or later housing in an early A, be prepared for the rubber flex line to be about 2 inches too short. A trip to a mobile hydraulic flex hose maker that services the heavy equipment industry will have an extension for this that will still allow you to use the correct hose and just screw the adapter to the J-block end of the hose for the added length. Hope this helps, Geof

 

[snowmobiler7c]

I would just bend them yourself. It is very easy. I get my lines at one of the local auto parts stores. I buy the lines with the correct size fittings for my wheel cylinder already on them and flared. They sell the lines in many differant sizes, just get the lengh very close to your origional. That way you dont need to have the flaring tool or know how to do a flare on brake lines at all. Only way i would buy the lines prebent is if you have to have a 100% origional look, cause you can bend them and get very close.

 

[Dusterdude72]

I would agree with you on that DartMan.. I just found this from the internet
what do you think???
Mopar Rear Axle
Identified by casting number & number of cover bolts. The 8.75 (8 3/4) rear end LOADS FROM THE FRONT and IS THE ONLY REAR END THAT DOESN'T HAVE A REAR COVER.

Casting #​

Year​

Body​

Size​

Notes​

2070051 1960 - 71 A 7.25 9 bolt cover 2070062 1970 - 71 A 7.25 3507881 1972 - 74 A 7.25 2852905 1969 - 70 B 8.25 10 bolt cover 3723598 1971 - 74 B 8.25 3723599 1971 - 74 B 8.25 1634985 1957 - 67 ABCD 8.75 10 studs/no rear cover 1820657 1958 - 64 C 8.75 2070741 1964 - 74 ABCE 8.75 2070742 1959 - 68 BCD 8.75 2881489 1969 - 74 ABCE 8.75 3507890 1973 - 74 B 9.25 12 bolt cover 3507891 1973 - 74 B 9.25 Dana 60 1966 - 72 B 9.75 10 bolt cover Dana 60 1970 - 71 E 9.75

the problem with this is....the center section chunk can be swapped from a different housing....so you still wouldnt know for sure what your housing is.

I have a 489 center section in my 72 duster.

your best bet is like was mentioned earlier....measure from flange to flange and that will tell you.

but also like has been mentioned, its VERY easy to go to the parts store, pick up some brake line and bend it your self,cut it,flare it,union them where they need to go,bleed the brakes and your done.

 

[Dusterdude72]

here might be some helpful links for you

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=73

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=62

 

[Mopar to ya]

I don't know. I would worry about a wrench turner that can't flare a brake line. Making your own is simple and you bend them exactly the way you want them. I don't even know if you can order them pre bent. Try it yourself. Practice a few times, but I promise you it is easy.

 

[Dusterdude72]

yup

and even if you are afraid of kinking a line....you can use a large socket or something to aid in making bends....or you could just buy the tool designed for it at your local parts store for probably a couple bucks.

make sure you have a line/tubing cutter, then flaring is pretty simple to.

I enjoy doing lines.....its easy work.

you can probably find yourself an entire line kit at a parts store or at a sears or a harbor freight or something that will have a cutter,flaring set up, double flare adapters and a bender all in one.

 

[crackedback]

here might be some helpful links for you

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=73

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=62

Both those links should be burned at the stake. Horribly inaccurate info in both of them.

As far as the brake lines, cosgig nailed it. The block moved to down the tube a bit in 1970. If you have a welder, you can always move the block location.

Easy to bend and flare. I use a cheapy HF flaring tool that most call junk, my hands and some different size sockets for bend radius.

 

[cosgig]

OK, for all of the "bend it yourself" guys out there...this member didn't ask about bending his own lines, he asked what year his rear end is so he could order the correct lines. If he is not comfortable bending his own, or lives in an apartment with no area to work on his car, or doesn't have the hand strength do bend and flare lines...you just can't assume he has the means to bend his own and you gotta answer his question. He needs accurate information for the question he is asking. What if he wants to use stainless steel?? Is it still as easy as you all make it out to be?? Can you even get stainless steel from the auto parts store?? Can you do stainless with the cheepie tube benders and flare kits?? In his post he mentions that the guy doing the work doesn't have the tools to bend and flare the lines, so he'd like to buy them pre-bent and just install them. Thats what he wants to do and he needs the correct information on his rear end to do that!!! Easy enough!!! Geof

 

[daredevil]

check inline tube

 

[crackedback]

Here's a pic of the location on a 1970 rear axle.

If you measure from the weld at bulge center (housing centerline), block is right at 12" from said weld. If it's closer than that, you have an earlier housing.

Maybe call the brake line manufacturer to find out which housing you have. Pretty simple, right. Get it straight from the horse...

 

[blu340dart]

As far as which year to order the hardware you dont need the exact year for that, you just have to know what size backing plate you have to get the correct fit shoes:ie 10" or 11". I have an A body 8 3/4 in my 69 Dart and I use later E/B body 11" x 2.5" brakes. When at the parts store just tell them its an 8 3/4 in a 70 Duster with the 340 and it has 10" x 2" shoes or whatever you really have. Always remember that when transplanting parts into different year cars to tell the parts people what you need, not what your car is.