elevensies
Well-Known Member
loosing some weight also helps, good chassis and tyres are the big improvers on small blocks,
Help me get into the 12's for cheap
- Thread starter 73dartneedswork
- Start date
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200 horse plate shot with what you have now. Bam. Done.
But be building something else in the meantime.
But be building something else in the meantime.
UOP
Well-Known Member
Real simple combo that put my 3200lb (with me) car into the 11.80's.
360 Magnum
Stock shortblock (simply freshened with new rings and bearings)
Stock heads (cracked even)
216/224, .506/.506, 114 cam, MP .525" springs, stock rockers
Edelbrock Airgap intake
QFT 650 DP carb
1 5/8" block hugger headers
MSD ignition
Auto trans (2004r, but 1-2-3 gear is very close to a low ratio 904)
3600 stall (9.5")
3:73 gear
26" tire
Very basic, and not optimum IMO, so there is still room to improve this combo. The changes I would make to better suite it to your application would be to:
1) Choose a cam better suited for a carbureted application. I chose that cam (which is just a mild efi cam) with the intention if running boost but never followed through with that direction. It ran good, but I always knew it wasn't optimum.
2) Due to the fact that obviously nobody makes longtubes for a mopar swapped RX7 I was forced to run block huggers. A set of basic longtubes would be an improvement.
3) I see you drive the car on the freeway so this may not be an option, but 3.91 gears would help also.
I'm not saying your car will run 11's with this combo, but I would expect high 12's depending on the weight of your car and how well the chassis works. If anything it would be very close. To run your 12's the car will need to 60 ft in the area of 1.70. Your 3.55 gears won't help this but I understand that screaming down the highway at 3500 rpm isn't the most pleasant experience.
360 Magnum
Stock shortblock (simply freshened with new rings and bearings)
Stock heads (cracked even)
216/224, .506/.506, 114 cam, MP .525" springs, stock rockers
Edelbrock Airgap intake
QFT 650 DP carb
1 5/8" block hugger headers
MSD ignition
Auto trans (2004r, but 1-2-3 gear is very close to a low ratio 904)
3600 stall (9.5")
3:73 gear
26" tire
Very basic, and not optimum IMO, so there is still room to improve this combo. The changes I would make to better suite it to your application would be to:
1) Choose a cam better suited for a carbureted application. I chose that cam (which is just a mild efi cam) with the intention if running boost but never followed through with that direction. It ran good, but I always knew it wasn't optimum.
2) Due to the fact that obviously nobody makes longtubes for a mopar swapped RX7 I was forced to run block huggers. A set of basic longtubes would be an improvement.
3) I see you drive the car on the freeway so this may not be an option, but 3.91 gears would help also.
I'm not saying your car will run 11's with this combo, but I would expect high 12's depending on the weight of your car and how well the chassis works. If anything it would be very close. To run your 12's the car will need to 60 ft in the area of 1.70. Your 3.55 gears won't help this but I understand that screaming down the highway at 3500 rpm isn't the most pleasant experience.
frosty_the_punk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2010
- Messages
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You wanna go from 14.8 to 12.99 in a full weight car with 3.55 gears?
and no nitrous?
There's no way around it, it's going to cost you more than $2000. Way more.
This centrifugal supercharger kit and a good torque converter will get you there and that is probably going to be your cheapest option. It will also leave some scope to go faster again in the future too.
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pax-1201851/overview/
Start saving!
and no nitrous?
There's no way around it, it's going to cost you more than $2000. Way more.
This centrifugal supercharger kit and a good torque converter will get you there and that is probably going to be your cheapest option. It will also leave some scope to go faster again in the future too.
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pax-1201851/overview/
Start saving!
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Wow, not to hijack but Rick what happened to the GTO looking back after all these years? Sounds like it should have really moved looking at your build. Any ideas?
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
To be brief, i was a 17/18 yr. old kid trying to run a high rpm combo thru stock "recon" heads (studs, poly locks & springs only) that were designed for mid-range torque.
No port or valve work whatsoever. Even though the "low end" suffered, i know there was at least, a little more in it, but i never got the chance to work with it before disaster struck.
P.S.....The 10" B&M converter in it, his choice not mine, wasn't a positive either, in my opinion. I preferred and had good luck with ATI stuff at that time.
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
#1 Align the car and adjust the brakes. Align the car with the front raised 2-3" and the tires inflated on the high side of recommended pressure, as it would be under acceleration down the track. You want 3-4" degrees positive caster, .5 deg negative camber, and 1/8th inch toe in. If you have factory disc brakes on the front, make sure the calipers aren't seized. Check the seals and the pistons to make sure they move freely - any that don't can cause extra parasitic drag and slow you down. Check the rear drums and parking brake for free operation and lubricate as needed. Adjust the rear brakes to recommended specs then a little more on the loose side. You should be able to spin the axles by hand with very little effort.
#2 Shed some weight from the car. Unbolt anything not needed and remove it. Remove the crash bars from inside the doors, or swap to '70-'72 doors. Remove heavy insulated underpadding from the carpet, install newer and lighter insulation such as dynamat, reinstall carpet. Swap your heavy '73 front bumper to a '70-'72 version, or just buy a fiberglass bumper and lightweight brackets. Buy a fiberglass hood or remove some of the reinforcement underneath the stock one. If you have buckets, buy lightweight versions or swap to a bench. Remove spare and jack or at least swap to a small space-saver type from a late model car. Remove interior panels and go to town with a holesaw, reinstall panels. Swap to lighter wheels and a big/little drag set - 3.5" front runner is much lighter and causes much less rolling resistance. Many more but you get the idea.
#3 Engine upgrades. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=87402
#2 Shed some weight from the car. Unbolt anything not needed and remove it. Remove the crash bars from inside the doors, or swap to '70-'72 doors. Remove heavy insulated underpadding from the carpet, install newer and lighter insulation such as dynamat, reinstall carpet. Swap your heavy '73 front bumper to a '70-'72 version, or just buy a fiberglass bumper and lightweight brackets. Buy a fiberglass hood or remove some of the reinforcement underneath the stock one. If you have buckets, buy lightweight versions or swap to a bench. Remove spare and jack or at least swap to a small space-saver type from a late model car. Remove interior panels and go to town with a holesaw, reinstall panels. Swap to lighter wheels and a big/little drag set - 3.5" front runner is much lighter and causes much less rolling resistance. Many more but you get the idea.
#3 Engine upgrades. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=87402
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