acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
so she drove off with the choke on, and the motor cold.
HELP NO REVERSE! 65 barracuda
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Yes
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
sorry to make you wait. its been nearly impossible to do any work on this thing with the weather we have been getting. only update I have is that it drives in neutral. it still rolls in neutral with the car off. another thing is, i uninstalled what was left of the original kickdown to install a lokar cable. problem is, the peg the cotter pin goes through is where i need to run the lokar. do i have to drill this out? need to get into the pan and take a look as soon as the weather clears. still no reverse.
drives in neutral is a linkage adjustment.
rolls in any position with the engine off (other than park) is a normal thing. no pressure from the front pump to engage clutches / bands and the torque converter is a fluid connection to the engine.
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
linkage at the shifter or the control cable? Also are you saying the fluid connection may be faulty? How would i test for that?
Does it feel like the engine still labors or wants to "drive" in park? If so, the malfunction is then in the forward clutch pack. Not to be confused with the forward most drum inside. Reverse is a function of the low/reverse band and the direct clutch engaging simultaneously. The fact that it wants to drive "forward" in neutral is a dead give away. Trans will have to be removed for repair.
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
yes it wants to drive in park and does drive in neutral. will be pulling the transmission asap. hope its not completely toast.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Don't go crazy & remove your trans yet! When I got my 65 Barracuda running the trans had a problem. I was told the filter had been changed 20 yrs before prior to storage.
Removed pan expecting the worst. I'd bought a new filter kit & when I compared filters I realized they were different. 65s have a rear oil pump that works at speed, 66 transmissions had deleted the rear pump and rear pump was blocked off with wrong filter! After installing correct filter it has worked perfectly!
Removed pan expecting the worst. I'd bought a new filter kit & when I compared filters I realized they were different. 65s have a rear oil pump that works at speed, 66 transmissions had deleted the rear pump and rear pump was blocked off with wrong filter! After installing correct filter it has worked perfectly!
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
did your transmission have the same problems as mine? IE neutral drive, no reverse, and pulling in park? i doubt a wrong filter would produce these symptoms. i will move slowly and start by removing the pan and inspecting the internals while its still in the car. Thank You!
Woody500
Well-Known Member
No rear pumps 66 & up car can not be push started. Rear pumps 65 & before can be push started.
Trying to drive in park might be a cable adjustment.
Trying to drive in park might be a cable adjustment.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
65 trans has 2 cables going to trans, rear
is for Park, gears all front cable. Try to decide if trans is correct for car. Don't know about ID except you need 2 cable setup. Look at installation, see if looks factory or jury rigged.
is for Park, gears all front cable. Try to decide if trans is correct for car. Don't know about ID except you need 2 cable setup. Look at installation, see if looks factory or jury rigged.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Think 66 might have 2 cable & no rear pump. notsure.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Driving in wrong gears equals cable adjustment. Check internal linkage when pan is off & research for correctness. Kickdown adjustment can cause problems I'm not familiar with. Do more research!
Woody500
Well-Known Member
To learn what to expect, I found adjustment procedures for my 93 D250 Cummins easily, so I knew what I was looking at & had an idea how to check adjustments etc before I ever removed pan
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
kickdown tells the transmission when to shift. critical to have it adjusted properly otherwise it will burn up your friction discs. this car had a missing rod in the linkage assembly, so it hadn't been communicating with the transmission in some time.
this is why it is likely that its more than an out of adjustment scenario. I will certainly adjust bands, shifter, and control cable to spec, though i do not have high hopes that it will work. i appreciate all the advice!
I've read through the plymouth service manual. it wants you to diagnose in a series of steps starting with throttle cable, and kickdown adjustment. secondly shifter adjustment, Then on to pressure test, then control cable adjustment, then to air pressure tests. I want to follow this procedure but keep running into hiccups. Thank you woody! doing my best to become familiar with this job and read up as much as i can. Wont really know until i build up some experience.
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No, just that there is no mechanical connection between the engine and the transmission like a manual trans has so that's why you can move the car in anything but park
Sort of...
It tells the transmission how much line pressure to apply the clutches etc. at wide open throttle you need high line pressure, at light throttle you don't need that much line pressure. (Line pressure might not be the correct term.but its close.)
Telling the transmission when to shift is actually the less important thing. The correct name is "throttle pressure linkage". Its primary function is to increase throttle pressure as the throttle is increased, so that the clutch packs are held together tightly with fluid pressure as power is applied. That's why the transmission will burn up with no or misadjusted linkage, because there is not enough throttle pressure (line pressure) applied to hold the clutches together and they slip and ultimately burn up.
man, you're hot to trot on yoinking a trans when you may just be looking at a fairly straight forward adjustment with the cables.
yes, the whole kickdown not hooked up may be a thing, but that's a whole other set of problems.
ascertain what you have *first* and what you may need to do to correct it before going full ham. otherwise you risk doing all that work and slamming it back together and being right back in the same boat of it not operating correctly when the gears are selected.
yes, the whole kickdown not hooked up may be a thing, but that's a whole other set of problems.
ascertain what you have *first* and what you may need to do to correct it before going full ham. otherwise you risk doing all that work and slamming it back together and being right back in the same boat of it not operating correctly when the gears are selected.
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
I let woody know what the plan was. I said in the first post that i don’t want to pull it but others have suggested that it may come to that
It will. One thing's for sure. It ain't gonna fix itself and it ain't gonna get fixed yappin about it on a furum. Ten minutes to pull the pan.
acidspitstormchild
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Try adjusting Lokar cable to make sure the throttle closed position is correct, I am assuming there should be no tension on it until throttle starts to open. With tension removed se if gear selection is improved. Might be a clue.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
You said previously fluid looked good? How about smell, if burned up oil still would smell a little anyway, even if seller changed it to hide damage. Put a little on a clean white paper towel & take to fresh air & smell it. & look for debris on towel & look at color of course, outdoors in the sun best.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Rusty may be right, but he's on here a lot & probably has spares to lug right in. I have to Troubleshoot.
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