help! please.

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DartIan

DartIan

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South Shore, Massachuetts
So i was on my home from school today dropped two kids off at a house. actually got out went bathroom and came back with it still running. Then left dropped off another kid then as i turned onto my street the alternator dial was dancing and next thing i know the car stalled out. I was still rolling put it in neutral fired it up and kept on my way. pulled into the driveway and i needed to stay on the gas to keep the thing running by staying on the gas. It conks out on its own like the idles too low but! it was fine a few minutes before when i was dropping off the kids. What the F%#@. Me and my dad thinks its the voltage regulator maybe? i havent a clue. its not vapor lock cause the carbs getting plenty of fuel. all hoses are hooked up and accounted for except one but i dont recall it ever being there. (me and dad dont know what the hell it is its a black cylindrical thing next to the radiator that says purge, carb bowl, and fuel tank(picture below)). couple days ago i took the dart on the highway and when i got home this is when i noticed the motor vibrated the car then stalls out. then the day after it stalled out once then its been fine as it may seem. then this. please someone make sense of this. like i said it ran fine earlier then on the way home it **** the bed. Video and pics (i will upload video when i find a way how :tard:). When it stalls its like barely alive shaking alot then cuts out. :-(









Thanks

http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/DartIan29/?action=view&current=0509111447.mp4 <- Video
 

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do you have points or has it been converted to electronic ignition?
if you still have points check them, or better yet convert it to electronic ignition
also double check for vacuum leaks
 
It came factory with electronic ignition. There is no vaccuum leaks at all we already checked for that (when i first got it it sputtered out and deduced it was the vaccuum hoses and fixed themm scouring over every hose) do you think the module for the ignition went bad? The car is a 1974 swinger.
 
Re-check for vacuum leaks and also check for a stuck open EGR valve.
The reason I say to re-check is that on a car of that age a hose or other leak can develop at any time.
Doesn't sound like an ignition problem, but a stuck float or dirt in the carb could cause your symptoms.
 
no when they go bad they usually just stop working,
the alternator gauge "dancing" sounds like a short or loose wire somewhere
they can be a pain to find, you just have to be persistent
 
EGR valve? bare with me here im 18 and me and my dad arent the most mechanical guys in the world. We are learning slowly but surely. Where is it located? what does it do? how do i check if its stuck or not?
 
DartIan said:
So i was on my home from school today dropped two kids off at a house. actually got out went bathroom and came back with it still running. Then left dropped off another kid then as i turned onto my street the alternator dial was dancing and next thing i know the car stalled out. I was still rolling put it in neutral fired it up and kept on my way. pulled into the driveway and i needed to stay on the gas to keep the thing running by staying on the gas. It conks out on its own like the idles too low but! it was fine a few minutes before when i was dropping off the kids. What the F%#@. Me and my dad thinks its the voltage regulator maybe? i havent a clue. its not vapor lock cause the carbs getting plenty of fuel. all hoses are hooked up and accounted for except one but i dont recall it ever being there. (me and dad dont know what the hell it is its a black cylindrical thing next to the radiator that says purge, carb bowl, and fuel tank(picture below)). couple days ago i took the dart on the highway and when i got home this is when i noticed the motor vibrated the car then stalls out. then the day after it stalled out once then its been fine as it may seem. then this. please someone make sense of this. like i said it ran fine earlier then on the way home it **** the bed. Video and pics (i will upload video when i find a way how :tard:). When it stalls its like barely alive shaking alot then cuts out. :-(









http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/DartIan29/?action=view&current=0509111447.mp4 <- Video
Click to expand...

That cylindrical thing is the Fuel Vapor recovery canister. It's susposed to recycle gas fumes back to the tank. This engine should have the electronic ignition, you might have a Ign module going. Check the ballast resister, module and the gap between the reluctor and inductor...The starred wheel under the distributer cap and the pickup..USE A BRASS FEELER GAUGE!! I can never remember the gap and I'm sure someone will chime it. Look at the plug wires, distributer cap and rotor for cracks, carbon tracking and burned wires. Good luck! :thumblef
 
caferacerx said:
no when they go bad they usually just stop working,
the alternator gauge "dancing" sounds like a short or loose wire somewhere
they can be a pain to find, you just have to be persistent
Click to expand...

The alternator needle only dances when it starts to go out. when you keep your foot on the gas a little bit its fine (actually a lil on the positive side buts its always been like that) but when it starts to go out or if your off the gas and a rpms go down it dances then the motor stalls out
 
It's in your picture just below the air cleaner, the the thing with the vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm. You'll need to unbolt it from the engine and check for carbon build up or a broken or missing disc. When you re-install it you'll need to replace the gasket.
But re-check your vacuum hoses first.
 
Robbie2734 said:
That cylindrical thing is the Fuel Vapor recovery canister. It's susposed to recycle gas fumes back to the tank. This engine should have the electronic ignition, you might have a Ign module going. Check the ballast resister, module and the gap between the reluctor and inductor...The starred wheel under the distributer cap and the pickup..USE A BRASS FEELER GAUGE!! I can never remember the gap and I'm sure someone will chime it. Look at the plug wires, distributer cap and rotor for cracks, carbon tracking and burned wires. Good luck! :thumblef
Click to expand...


Thank you. The distributor cap and rotor are bran spanking new (thanks to autozone) and the spark plugs are new too. the only that arent are the plug wires. Maybe its the ignition module im not sure. Would it go out all of a sudden like that? after a long highway run and then turning onto my street after working fine before?
 
lrazor said:
The ammeter's antics could be due to the erratic idle.
Click to expand...

very true

E.G.R. valve

Exhaust
Gas
Recirculation
valve

it permits a small amount of exhaust to enter the combustion chamber lowering combustion temperature in order to minimize the formation of NOx
when the valve gets old and dirty it may not shut all the way causing rough idle and stalling
 
DartIan said:
EGR valve? bare with me here im 18 and me and my dad arent the most mechanical guys in the world. We are learning slowly but surely. Where is it located? what does it do? how do i check if its stuck or not?
Click to expand...

The EGR valve is right between the dipstick and the heat riser hose in the 3rd picture and has a vacuum hose running up to the radiator. It allows exhaust gas to enter the intake manifold and cause your engine to stall out instead of idle. It's a lot cheaper to get 2 new EGR gaskets and sandwich a block off plate between the valve and the intake manifold. That will also allow you to get rid of the 2 vacuum hoses that run to the radiator and eliminate 2 potential vacuum leaks.
 
Ok so blocking it off will allow me to get ride of the egr valve altogether and get rid of two vaccuum hoses. This will allow my motor to run straight out without all the polution stopping business?
 
Thank you robbie! im in the process of saving to finish my tune up. The only thing thats killing me is spark wires are close to 100$ and all that jazz. So im going to finish up my tune up soon. I looked at the wires the seem fine for now.
 
DartIan said:
Thank you robbie! im in the process of saving to finish my tune up. The only thing thats killing me is spark wires are close to 100$ and all that jazz. So im going to finish up my tune up soon. I looked at the wires the seem fine for now.
Click to expand...

spark plug wires are no where near $100, more like $25
 
The first thing you should do is check for constant sparkat the coil wire while turning the motor over . Not just one spark it should have continuos spark. If not jump the balast resister wires from side to side sometimes they will act up . No luck check the control box Ground for the ignition. if there is rust underneith clean it up. bad ground it will cause this. The balast will make the volt spike
 
oh you know why. cause the dickheads at advanced and autzone wanna bend me over and screw me for racing wires. And they are 40$ at autozone where i will be going to get the egr valve gasket shortly.

Speaking of which can i get away with buying one gasket and putting a plate over it and completely getting rid of the egr valve? if so do i need to re run the wires it bi passes to somewhere else or can i get rid of them?
 
I think you still have the egr jets in the manifold, even then.
Tune it, check carb. Then convert it to 1969; manifold, carb, dist, some wiring.
 
You should check the smog laws in your state before removing the EGR valve. With the valve removed and a block installed, their is no flow through the EGR jets in the manifold, unless the manifold is cracked. The reason that I suggest checking the EGR valve is that you said the problem came on suddenly. A properly functioning EGR valve is closed when the engine is cold and doesn't open until it reaches operating temperature and should close at idle. If your valve opened and then failed to close properly due to carbon build up or damage, the engine would stumble or die at idle. Part of the smog inspection in California used to involve manually opening the valve at idle to see if the engine stumbled, if it didn't they knew the valve or the manifold jets had been blocked.
 
Green1 the carb works pisser. we have cycled a lil marvins mystery oil and a cycle of carb jet cleaner. Every in the carb is fine. As lrazor has mentioned multiple times the EGR valve. It makes alot of sense.

lrazor. The state has no emission laws if the cars like 26 years old or something i dont remember but i know when i got my inspection i didnt get any emissions testing. So im sure if i replaced it or bi passed it it'll be fine. I think thats what im going to do. I took some needle nose pliers and i moved it. it seemed like it was fine. Should i still take it off and look?
I dont think it was so suddenly. If i didnt mention earlier days ago i took it on the highway and after i got off the highway it was running rough but it wasnt nearly as bad. Then i brought it home. The next morning it stalled out then was fine and for days driving from school and back it was fine. Now today it just...**** the bed. Maybe because i was on the gas too hard? maybe i hit a bump and it made it stick? im not sure. but what your telling me makes sense and i think im going to try and replace the egr valve.
 
when did you last get gas? is there a possibility that you got some water in the gas?
 
i also thought about that. i got it right before i started having problems but i honestly doubt thats the issue. i could be wrong. i have never had a problem with mobil. and i usually get gas from the local town pump (i know a firefighter/plumber who looked at my usual place and the tanks under ground were rusting probly from water) but in all my years of living in the town i have never had a problem with them nor anyone in my family. i honestly doubt it cause like i said. It got very bad all of a sudden
 
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