Help rebuilding 8 3/4" Sure Grip!

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340butterduster

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Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Does anyone know where I can find the specs. for rebuilding a cone type Sure Grip.
IE: Max./Min. plate surface thickness, run-out, flatness, surface finish requirement (machined/ground)...?
Spring tension...?
Can this be found in a Chrysler manual, if so which one?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Giles
 
340butterduster said:
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Does anyone know where I can find the specs. for rebuilding a cone type Sure Grip.
IE: Max./Min. plate surface thickness, run-out, flatness, surface finish requirement (machined/ground)...?
Spring tension...?
Can this be found in a Chrysler manual, if so which one?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Giles
Click to expand...

Those are dam good questions, I'll have a look around. You could start by talking to this guy.

http://www.doctordiff.com/
 
Thanks Terry, I'll check in with him for sure, but I'm sure he won't tell me everything, lol.

Reason I'm asking, is I have a few cone types around, that I would rather sale in good working condition, but I don't want to spend too much money paying for stuff I can do myself. Given that I know what I need to look for.

If I only had one, and it required rebuild, I'd likely switch it over to a clutch drive, as the kits are readily available and not excessively priced.

Thanks again.
 
You're on it Terry, kewl, I saw that article in Moparts already, it's pretty basic info as far as the cone type info goes. I like the last sentence in that tech info."Some level of lock-up" they say, lol.

Machining .030" off a surface that's already worn .005" ish and replacing it with .030" and likely weakened springs.
It just doesn't quite cut it IMO.
Info on the clutch type is easier to find, but yet it seems like there's more
"Cone" type rears then "Clutch" type.
Finding specs would help many (70%) 8 3/4" owners, rebuild there diffs.

When new the "Cone" worked just as good as a "Clutch" type, IMO.

Giles
 
i,m gonna try this trial and error when i get around to it. if i screw up it will chirp tires around corners and act like a spool till it breaks in i hope.
 
I've done 2 of them by trial and error and both worked great but I had no specs to go by. Thing is when you remove metal from the ends of the cones all your doing is letting the sides of the cones grip again. Since they were considered non-rebuildable units from the factory I don't know if you'll ever come up with what the dimensions should be.
 
..........Ive trued some cones up....probably .010-.020, it doesnt take much.....without shimming the springs they worked great......some guys even mill the case so the cones can screw in deeper........biggest problem ive seen is the pin getting loose......weld her up then, or make a bushing..............kim..........
 
fishy68 said:
I've done 2 of them by trial and error and both worked great but I had no specs to go by. Thing is when you remove metal from the ends of the cones all your doing is letting the sides of the cones grip again. Since they were considered non-rebuildable units from the factory I don't know if you'll ever come up with what the dimensions should be.
Click to expand...


That would certainly explain the lack of service information available through Chrysler.
Anyone know who the manufacturer was (Auburn, Dana...?), there has to be some info on them somewhere.


 
oldkimmer said:
..........Ive trued some cones up....probably .010-.020, it doesnt take much.....without shimming the springs they worked great......some guys even mill the case so the cones can screw in deeper........biggest problem ive seen is the pin getting loose......weld her up then, or make a bushing..............kim..........
Click to expand...

Kim, could you expand a little on the pin getting loose, and the process of welding it up please? :read2:
 
340butterduster said:
That would certainly explain the lack of service information available through Chrysler.
Anyone know who the manufacturer was (Auburn, Dana...?), there has to be some info on them somewhere.
Click to expand...

They were made by Auburn and you have just exhausted my knowledge about them. :toothy10:
 
They had an article in the old chrysler power mag years ago where they machined down the ends of the cones so they would not bottom out in the case, and then shimed the side gears back to the spider gears (as the cones ware the side gears and spiders pull apart). Then they put clutch pack springs from a 727 trans in side of the existing springs and made it stronger than it was from the factory ( so the mag said).
 
.............Sometimes the pin galls, then sticks 2 the 2 little spiders inside, then starts turning in the case, then slopping back and forth.........u need 2 take it apart, unseize the parts, clean them up as best u can, or replace if u have spare parts.............then u need 2 take the slop out, eastiest way ive found is just 2 weld the pin 2 the case, of course u wont be able 2 get it apart anymore............otherwise get the case machined and put a bushing in..............kim..........
 
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