Help Selecting Paint

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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Okay guys its getting closer to paint and I want to know what supplies I will need. Meaning what types of primer, clear and paint.

The duster has original paint still and I plan on it being sanded down, but don't belive it will be down to bare metal. If its just sanded is only epoxy primer good? Or is there another type of primer I should use instead or include?

With the color I want to go with the fire mist purple that ARCO440 has or the other purple that is on TCPglobal.



The colors I have choosen are between
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF262.aspx

and
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2516.aspx

or the Fire Mist
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2920.aspx

The fire mist seems to be the darkest of the three.

But im unsure as to use the Urethane Basecoat/Clear or the Single Stage Urethane. I would only be buying a Gallon of color and an extra quart for insurance.

The primer I was looking at Summits aka Kirker Epoxy primer with 1 quart of their catlyst. But if this won't work please advise of a better one.

Here is summits urethane primer: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP220/
HEre is Summits Epoxy: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP230/

And for the clear I was told Diamont Clear is good unless someone else knows of a good one. I also dont know how much Clear I would need to do 2-3 coats. NASON looks like the top choice now : http://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Overall-Clearcoat-(Gallon).html

I want this paint to last a long time and not fade or chip. So all help is welcome.
 
I would suggest using a complete paint system if you are a novice. A painter by trade can understand the when's and why's as to mixing systems and understanding when they will work. There are far too many problems that CAN happen if you don't understand these concepts.

As far as epoxy goes. If you are using epoxy as a sealer before painting, YES it can be used directly on your sanded car... 320 orbital or 400-600 block. If you have large area's of rock chips or other blemishes to feather edge I don't suggest it. Especially if there is an excessive mil thickness on the previous paint. If the mil thickness is too thick you will need a good sandable filler primer first to level the area. Feather edges can tend to lift around the perimeter of the feather edge when just sealing.

I would suggest checking these guys out...

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

Their products seem reasonable.... half that of a PPG Sikkens..... I have heard good things about them, but never used them.. I also plan on testing their products out in the future.

I work as a body man and painter in a restoration shop so I am happy to help with any questions and there are a lot more guys/girls on here that do so as well that will help too. Good luck :)
 
fst73 360 i asked my body guy and see what he thinks about what primer to use,He tells me 2k high build primer.will do the trick.Hope it helps and cant wait to see what you go with and how it turns out.
 
Thanks guys. I will not be painting the car myself. I WISH!! But I am away for school and a family friend will be painting it, but I will be purchasing all the products, so this is why I wanted to know which items to get, so when its ready for paint, I have everything and he can just pick it all up.

The car has no rust on it all, only 2-3 3-4inch dents and if any smaller ones I have not seen. So I mean if Expoxy or high build primer would be fine thats awesome. But is there another type of primer that goes over the epoxy? or just straight to paint? Or is it epoxy then high build for sanding and then paint? Thanks guys
 
I mean I wish I could work on it and learn to paint myself, but with school, the only time would be the summer and its just to far away for me. :(
 
You can put epoxy down before your filler primer if the filler primer is a non corrosion resistant primer... if it is.. you don't have to but I like to use epoxy anywhere bare steal is... after the car is sanded and ready... I use epoxy again as a sealer..
 
Thanks. Is it possible to add in things to this list to what I might need? Does mixing brands matter? Or only mixing chemicals like laquer and urethane or arcylic?

Im looking at:
1. Epoxy primer
2. Single Stage Urethane
3. Urethane Clear
4. filler primer is this the same has the 2k high build?
5. catalyst

am I missing anything?
 
Fst73_360 said:
Thanks. Is it possible to add in things to this list to what I might need? Does mixing brands matter? Or only mixing chemicals like laquer and urethane or arcylic?

Im looking at:
1. Epoxy primer
2. Single Stage Urethane
3. Urethane Clear
4. filler primer is this the same has the 2k high build?
5. catalyst

am I missing anything?
Click to expand...

Mixing brands can matter yes.. that is what I was referring to above. Wet on wet is where the problem can happen...

Epoxy - Catalyst
I would really suggest a base clear system
Reducer
Filler primer is the same as a 2k
Clear - Catalsyt
 
67Dart440GT said:
Mixing brands can matter yes.. that is what I was referring to above. Wet on wet is where the problem can happen...

Epoxy - Catalyst
I would really suggest a base clear system
Reducer
Filler primer is the same as a 2k
Clear - Catalsyt
Click to expand...


When you say base clear system, does this mean the color I want already has the clear mixed in or ?

Because these links here ---> http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2516.aspx

or the Fire Mist
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2920.aspx


are the colors I want to choose from. Unless you know of a place that has a gallon of PHG plum crazy purple for the same price as above and in the base clear system you speak of.
 
Base/clear is this

Base is a fast drying non glossy color.

Then you cover that with your clear coat.

Single stage is color and "gloss" all in one.. you spray it and it is the color and gloss all in one... You can add a "clear" to some single stage paints either mixing them right in, or topcoating them... but to me it sort of defeats the purpose..
 
The plum crazy is a single stage that you linked... if you just click one tab to the right is where you can get the color in base coat.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Base/clear is this

Color is a fast drying non glossy color.

Then you cover that with your clear coat.

Single stage is color and "gloss" all in one.. you spray it and it is the color and gloss all in one... You can add a "clear" to some single stage paints either mixing them right in, or topcoating them... but to me it sort of defeats the purpose..
Click to expand...

got it, thats why most people who shoot them selves go with the single stage because its pre mixed!
 
i used y2k high build primer and an electric medium metallic blue TCP global single stage acrylic medium kit , it comes with everything needed with wet look hardener. and i shot it myself. the pic does not do it justice , the color is awesome in the sun. you have to mix the hardener and reducer but i am really happy with it. it went on really nice.
 

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A metallic + unskilled painter is a recipe for disaster.

If this is your first time painting do a solid color because I can guarantee if you do a metallic you will tiger stripes and mottling.
 
Fst73_360 said:
got it, thats why most people who shoot them selves go with the single stage because its pre mixed!
Click to expand...

Single stage is not pre-mixed (you don't dump it out in the can, into your gun and spray it.)

Single Stage = what you spray is the color and the shine.

2 stage = You spray on color (the base) then you spray on the shine (the clear).


Another thing...... You can not wet-sand a single stage metallic so what you spray is what you get.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
A metallic + unskilled painter is a recipe for disaster.

If this is your first time painting do a solid color because I can guarantee if you do a metallic you will tiger stripes and mottling.
Click to expand...


ok everyone, " I MYSELF" will not be painting the car. Someone else will be painting it.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Single stage is not pre-mixed (you don't dump it out in the can, into your gun and spray it.)

Single Stage = what you spray is the color and the shine.

2 stage = You spray on color (the base) then you spray on the shine (the clear).


Another thing...... You can not wet-sand a single stage metallic so what you spray is what you get.
Click to expand...


When I meant pre-mixed I meant it has the clear already mixed in it.

The Base Clear coat sounds like what your talking about with the two stage. Primer the color then clear.

So I guess I will be getting the Urethane Basecoat / Clear, so that they can wet sand then clear it. would this be correct?



Meaning from this link:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2920.aspx

This would be the correct 2 stage base color the spray on clear correct:
Deluxe Urethane Basecoat / Clearcoat System - UB2920

And this would be the one I dont want: Single Stage Urethane - AU2920
 
Fst73_360 said:
So I guess I will be getting the Urethane Basecoat / Clear, so that they can wet sand then clear it. would this be correct?
Click to expand...


You do not wet-sand the base-coat on a 2 stage. You can wet-sand the clear, if needed, provided you put enough clear on.

You do not wet-sand a single stage metallic at all.

I spray a bunch of Deltron 2000 (PPG) and Sherwin-Williams waterborn, and I like both.

You may want to look at Delfleet (PPG), a good, less expensive paint.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You do not wet-sand the base-coat on a 2 stage. You can wet-sand the clear, if needed, provided you put enough clear on.

You do not wet-sand a single stage metallic at all.

I spray a bunch of Deltron 2000 (PPG) and Sherwin-Williams waterborn, and I like both.

You may want to look at Delfleet (PPG), a good, less expensive paint.
Click to expand...

Got it thanks. I called TCPglobal and they quoted me 650 for ppg in PHG plum crazy.. So ya..

but the Urethane Basecoat / Clear, is the two stage correct? And the one where the clear can be wet sanded if need be?


Also called Sherwin-Williams, they wanted 550 for 1 gallon ogf PHG and 600 for the clear.
 
Single stage is "one stage" paint.... enamel, urethane. Color with gloss.

Two stage... stage one Base... stage two clear...

Tri Coat.... well, lets not go there lol
 
A base clear is more forgiving. You can blend in the future easy if needed for a small repair... get some scratches... you can have the chance to wet sand them out and polish them. You get what you pay for... I personally use PPG's off line Omni for epoxy and color.... and use a good clear from PPG on top...
 
67Dart440GT said:
A base clear is more forgiving. You can blend in the future easy if needed for a small repair... get some scratches... you can have the chance to wet sand them out and polish them. You get what you pay for... I personally use PPG's off line Omni for epoxy and color.... and use a good clear from PPG on top...
Click to expand...


Cool thanks guys but to clear it up for all the money on those links is
Urethane Basecoat / Clear or Single Stage Urethane the correct one that I want that does not have the gloss mixed in and will require me to purchase clear to spray over it.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Order the urethane base coat... and a clear.... and your epoxy
Click to expand...
haha Okay, Thanks. Paint to me right now is like wiring, not something I really want to deal with or learn about, but when I do and its done, it looks great.
 
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