HELP!! Torque convertor and flexplate issue

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chasonmarose

chasonmarose

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hey there so I installed a brand new externally balanced TCI heavy duty sfi approved flexplate into my dodge 360. I have been having trouble with the stock flexplate shattering under load condition so I spent the extra cash and bought a heavy duty one. Now when I put this in and lined everything up the halfmoon cutout would not line up to where I would have assumed would be a peek hole to where the drain plug is on the TC. So it would only line up 180 from that. Now when I torqued everything down and everything I started the motor up and there is this clanging sound coming from the convertor flexplate area. This wasn't doing this before. Now since the 360 is externally balanced the torque convertor has to be as well so should I have taken the weights off of the torque convertor of this new flexplate is externally balanced or what? To me it sounds like the flexplate is slightly hitting the bellhousing. I am really stumped any input be muchly appreciated!! By the way the TC IS AFTERMARKET 3000 stall
 
If your using a flex plate with the cut out section, you have to use a neutral balance convertor. You can't use both. Even if the noise wasn't there you would have a bad vibration.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If your using a flex plate with the cut out section, you have to use a neutral balance convertor. You can't use both. Even if the noise wasn't there you would have a bad vibration.
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Hey there the thing is when I bring the engine up to 1500 and above rpm there is absolutely no vibration so would that mean that the convertor must be neutrally balanced then? It's so weird like I have never had any trouble like this before there is no vibration so I don't know what the issue is
 
Well if the convertor has weights and the flexplate has the cutaway than yes you shouldn't have weights on the convertor.
 
But don't all convertors have weights on them to begin with to balance them to neutral? Like when u weld it together u can't be 100% that ur weld is the exact all the way around the shell. The weights are on each side of the convertor on each side of the drain plug
 
No, this is why the flexplate you took out was symmetrical and looked uniform in design. What your trying to do is use two balanced pieces together. It won't work. If a convertor has weights it is for a external balance engine. If it has no weights it is for a internal balanced engine.
 
Ok so what is happening is the noise I am hearing is the torque convertor running off balance then causing the noise I am hearing
 
I just looked up the TCI flexplate I think you have? Is it 102390? If so that is a different set up than what I'm thinking of ( Like the B & M #10236) With the TCI 102390 you LEAVE the weights on.
 
Hey why don't you call the TCI tech line 1-888-776-9824. I don't want you to do something wrong on my advice. Better safe than sorry.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I just looked up the TCI flexplate I think you have? Is it 102390? If so that is a different set up than what I'm thinking of ( Like the B & M #10236) With the TCI 102390 you LEAVE the weights on.
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Ok so the one I have installed is the b and m 10236 I thought it was TCI cause that's the packaging it came in
 
Ok that is the flex plate I have in my 360 Dart. And I installed a Frank Lupo 10" NEUTRAL balanced convertor. NO weights! Than yes you need to remove the weights.
 
That sucks I hope I have enough room to get at it with a little dremel tool so I don't have to take the transmission off
 
SGBarracuda is absolutely right. Those weights on each side of the drain plug are balance weights to balance the externally balanced engine and the flexplate with the cutout does the same job so that throws it out of balance. It don't matter if it doesn't shake at only 1500 rpm, it's freakin out of balance, that's why it shakes at other rpm's

JFYI: you are correct that they do have to balance the converter after welding it together but the weights to neutral balance the converter are around the perimeter of the converter and their long thin weights, not on the front side by the drain plug. Also the bolt circle is not symmetrical co it'll only bolt up one way. I've noticed the B&M plate covers the drain plug. No idea why they designed it that way.
 
fishy68 said:
I've heard of guys using a chisel and hammer. Haven't tried it.

Have you tried that SG?
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No I haven't tried knocking them off. If it were out of the trans I might try that but not installed, you might mess up the front pump bushing or ? But then if were out of the vehicle,they wouldn't be hard to remove!
 
are the flex plate bolts hitting the dust cover?
balance should not create a clanging noise
 
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