Help with 225 slant 6 ignition wiring

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Okay, I went out today to my 1964 dart, a 225 slant 6. she cranked and wanted to run, but would not. Getting gas fine so i figured electric. I disc. the batt. and ran a lead from the + term of batt to + term of coil reconnected the batt and she fired right over and ran. My guess was ignition relay. went to napa, picked one up. I removed and reinstalled the relay and the second i reconnected the batt the wire between the hot power post from the starter to the ignition relay started on fire. I yanked the + term of the batt. reinstalled the old relay and tried to "hotwire" her again and nothing. I am guessing i toasted the battery for one but any ideas why the wire would burn up??? Bad relay??? any help would be wonderful!

PJ
 
How long did you let the car run? Jumping 12v to the coil for extended periods of time will cook it. Does the car still have points or is it electric ign?
Ballast resistor may have been the problem, but after smoking that wire/relay you might have done other damage. The battery "should" have survived the short.... When you say that you replaced the ign relay... what was that exactly ( starter relay ) ( what did it look like? )

you can use the following to check wire routing.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1964/64DartB.jpg

and HEY, welcome to the one of the coolest mopar sites on the planet!
 
Thanks for getting back to this post so quick! Let it run for about 30 seconds. It is labeled a 12v coil that is why i was not too concerned. No idea points vs. elec ignition??? as far as i can tell she is dead stock so my guess is what ever was factory equipment. I am guess toasted the batt. because i can not eve get the starter to spin, tries to crank then just the typical clickity clickity click. I will post a small slide show of labeled pics

Thanks for your help and the warm welcome!
PJ
http://picasaweb.google.com/customslotcars/DartElectric?feat=directlink
 
I had a similar problem with my /6 dart...It did crank but didn't fire...It started when jumping a wire from + on battery to + on the coil and would keep going when removing the jump!Looked it up and it turned out to be a bad groundconnection from the negative battery terminal,fixed the ground and she starts and runs as new!
 
I have a ground from block to body, block to (neg post) battery and
(neg post) battery back to the body. It went a long way to solve a lot of gremlins I had........
 
I have a ground from block to body, block to (neg post) battery and
(neg post) battery back to the body. It went a long way to solve a lot of gremlins I had........


I have ground from battery to body,from battery to block,from block to body.But I guess that the ground from block to body didn't do what it was supposed to!
 
If the first problem was that it would try and run but quit when the key was realest then it was a bad Ballast resistor.
Frank
 
I agree with 66aCUDA a bad ballast will stifle any chance the engine has of maintaining itself after the key is released; plus it only cost about 10 dollars and 2 minutes. Also it would not hurt to double check the operation of your new relay as an incorect internal wire schematic could cause an instant short, or just reinstall the original and run the new ballast.
 
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