Help with alternator

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68 Notch Back

68 Notch Back

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I am building a small block (410 CID) strip only bracket racer. I had originally decided not to run an alternator, but after thinking about it for a while I thought I would investigate what it would take to add one to the engine. I am running an electric waterpump and would have to get both brackets and pulley.

I assume with the electric waterpump, a stock bracket/pulley would not work.

Thanks
 
Well here's where some of my most recent experience will help.
I used a march Proformance 2 grove underdrive pulley and modified the stock alternator bracket and spaced the alternator out an inch. This was done to get around the more protruding inlet tube of the aftermarket electric water pump and keep the alternator on the stock side so it's not in the way of reading my timing marks. I'll post some pics....View attachment 20150623_130615.jpg

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i'll take some better pictures if you like...
 
I am running a Moroso electric water pump with their alternator mount that works with the water pump. I tried a CSR water pump but I could not run an alternator with it. My problem was I have Brodix B1 BA heads that do not have holes tapped for accessory brackets. The Moroso set up did the trick. I am running a powermaster alternator and a CVF Racing Billet Aluminum Crank Pulley single groove. I can get better pics if you would like.
 

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Good stuff also ! ^^^ question ? Hows that remote oil gadget working for ya? And what brand?
 
Kfischer20 has a water pump with a built in alt bracket. J par....I would appreciate any pictures that you could post....Thanks
 
Sorry the dinner bell rang. I'll get some pics . Be just a few minutes
 
So went to the garage and took these...
I took the stock triangle bracket and cut it out to form around the new water pump. even with spacers it didn't bring it out far enough to clear it, but in retrospect after fabrication I think if I would have brought the triangle plate all the way out and added more spacers behind it in front of the water pump I may have been able to get away with just cutting it a little bit. as it was it got so thin I had to weld some round stock to it to beef it up the on the bottom part of it. Again I think you can add more spacer in front of the water pump. maybe an inch and you can see where there's an extra inch of space between the bracket and the front of the alternator. if that was brought out and then further on both sides you may avoid having to cut too much of the bracket to fit around the water pump? Again I'm mocked this all up with my stock pulley and found out that the outer pulley was just running it to fast and throughing the belt. that's why I went to the underdrive aftermarket pulley. View attachment 20150707_191106.jpg

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So moving forward from when it was throwing the belt at the track. I came home and said forget that and just ordered a smaller underdrive pulley. Well in the throes of doing all this it was heavily suggested by senior members of the forum to take the brand new multi hundred dollar electric water pump off and just use a stock water pump and pulley to add another pulley and stabilize the belt. I'm far too hard headed to follow general engineering logic. ( I mean what would Don Garlits do?) I was actually thinking the same thing forget the belt and alternator all together and run without it which I could do. I just like to put some street tires and rims on it once in awhile and take it for what I like to call a "DANGER RIDE!!" lol - after all it does have license plates... :D
 
I am using the Trans Dapt filter relocation kit. The lines you see in the pic are the ones that come with the kit and they leaked the second or third time I ran the car. I replaced them with braided lines with an fittings. Works great with those lines.
 
Here's how I did mine with a CSR pump. A custom bracket was made from aluminum sheet and tubing and TIG welded together.



 
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