Help with bouchillon kick down cable

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downsr

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Could someone post some pics of bouchillon kick down assembly using a holley carb .i believe i have it right . Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
How about you post pics of what you've done? As long as you've followed their directions and used the supplied or suggested bracketry, you should be good. I've used them with Holley and Edel.
 
70Duster440 said:
How about you post pics of what you've done? As long as you've followed their directions and used the supplied or suggested bracketry, you should be good. I've used them with Holley and Edel.
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I do not know how to post pics.Just hoping some one might be able to post some pics of theres
 
A shot of the one we installed recently on my sons BB truck project... You can do the initial adjustment of the kickdown cable as instructed but fine tuning of the shift points must be done by driving. A small adjustment of the cable bracket, fore or aft, can make a big difference.

20160703_153134.jpg
 
70Duster440 said:
A shot of the one we installed recently on my sons BB truck project... You can do the initial adjustment of the kickdown cable as instructed but fine tuning of the shift points must be done by driving. A small adjustment of the cable bracket, fore or aft, can make a big difference.

View attachment 1714948416
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Thats how i did mine.I talked to the guy at bouchillon and asked him if i should slide the adjuster to change when the trans shifts and he says absolutely not the internals of the trans determines when it shifts.I am not saying that you are not correct because i did just what you are doing.I am making sure i have my set up correct because i just had the trans rebuilt and want to make sure everything is correct. I appreciate you posting a pic.I talked to the guy at boucillon and he is very rude so i would just as soon not ask him anything
 
Well, there is an initial adjustment that is considered 'correct' in the FSM and is a starting point. In reality you will probably need to make some fine adjustments. A 1/8" adjustment of that bracket can make a difference (like if the the 1-2 shift is late or it doesn't want to shift into 3rd). Valve body mods, if any, also factor in. You won't know till you test drive it.
 
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70Duster440 said:
Well, there is an initial adjustment that is considered 'correct' in the FSM and is a starting point. In reality you will probably need to make some fine adjustments. A 1/8" adjustment of that bracket can make a difference (like if the the 1-2 shift is late or it doesn't want to shift into 3rd). Valve body mods, if any, also factor in. You won't know till you test drive it.
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Right now i just had my wife hold the gas pedal down and make sure the carb is opening all the way and pulled the kick down cable till i felt the kick down lever bottom out and hooked up the cable.Plan on test driving it to see where it shifts out if it ever quits raining.Thanks for your help
 
You're on track. I think you'll be happy with the Bouchillon setup. It's more robust than the Lokar stuff, IMO.
 
I'll be hooking up mine to a Thermoquad soon....thanks for the pics and tips

Jeff
 
that's how its done. Full throttle should max the kickdown. Mine looks just like the picture too.
 
FredS said:
that's how its done. Full throttle should max the kickdown. Mine looks just like the picture too.
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Got the trans installed.Held the carb wide open and pulled the trans cable till it was wide open .Took it for a ride seems to shift good but does not shift down from 3 to 2 when slowing down.Guess i will move it forward a little at a time till it starts down shifting.
 
downshifting while slowing down, would not be a cable adjustment. Always leave the WOT to full stroke position. You would need tweaks to the vb to get downshifts while slowing down. Is the VB stock, or a shift kit, was the throttle valve cut down.
 
FredS said:
downshifting while slowing down, would not be a cable adjustment. Always leave the WOT to full stroke position. You would need tweaks to the vb to get downshifts while slowing down. Is the VB stock, or a shift kit, was the throttle valve cut down.
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It is a stock valve body with a b&m shift kit. Forward shift pattern
 
Thread revival! I'm a B-bodies member, but find great info here on the A-bodies site and check-in occasionally.

I've been running a Bouchillon kickdown setup on my Cope Racing 727 with stage 2 shift kit. I adjusted both the throttle cable and kickdown cable with carb at Wide Open Throttle. I did have it for a while where everything shifted fine, but kickdown only worked if you mashed it to the floor. I'm trying to adjust it so it will kickdown at 3/4 throttle like a modern car. Today I adjusted the kickdown bracket slider so it put a little more tension on the kickdown cable. During the test drive it short shifted 1-2 and 2-3 and then at WOT would not kick down at all. I parked the car and adjusted only the kickdown bracket slider so a little less compression on the slider internal kickdown spring. Drove again, same result. Now I'm just trying to get back to where i started. I sure wish this thing had a ratchet on it. I've been making sharpie marks on the kickdown metal slider for reference. I think I need to clean it off and make numbered hash marks every 1/16".

Any suggestions from someone who's got the Bouchillon setup to kick down at 3/4 throttle? Most of my local mopar buddies are driving manual transmissions. I know it's a careful balancing act with getting BOTH the throttle cable and kickdown cable adjusted correctly. On the kickdown cable, if erring on one side, is it better to have a bit of slack in the visible cable near the carb attachment point or should there be some tension on it? I don't want to burn up my trans.
 
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