Help with front end alignment

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I thought the top printout labeled “before” was what the car came in at.

The bottom printout labeled “current” is what it left the shop at. What he currently has I believe?

I used the “current” toe measurements for my calcs.

it’s sorta hard to read that sheet.

View attachment 1715840920

crap. Yep, you’re right, I used the “before” measurement
 
crap. Yep, you’re right, I used the “before” measurement
Just a.quick update the car is still at the shop, they are checking today to see if the torsion bars are reversed and also clocked correctly.
I pretty much inherited this issue I’m praying that this shop can sort it out.
I Dick snd tired of spending money for tires.

What should the final alignment specifications look like.

As printed out on their work sheet
 
Just a.quick update the car is still at the shop, they are checking today to see if the torsion bars are reversed and also clocked correctly.
I pretty much inherited this issue I’m praying that this shop can sort it out.
I Dick snd tired of spending money for tires.

What should the final alignment specifications look like.

As printed out on their work sheet
Refer to post #3
 
Just a.quick update the car is still at the shop, they are checking today to see if the torsion bars are reversed and also clocked correctly.
I pretty much inherited this issue I’m praying that this shop can sort it out.
I Dick snd tired of spending money for tires.

What should the final alignment specifications look like.

As printed out on their work sheet

The torsion bars aren't reversed. If they were your ride height would be completely screwed up. I would bet that the clocking is off on one of them given the differences in the adjusters. Either that or you have a serious frame issue.

Alignment should be based on the SKOSH chart, the only thing I do differently is add extra positive caster. IMHO the SKOSH chart is really conservative on caster, you can add like +2° of caster to the SKOSH settings across the board with no issues at all and it improves stability. The only thing is that you generally can't get that much unless you have offset bushings or tubular UCA's.
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So I would say like -.5° of camber, +3.5° to +5° caster (on the higher end for power steering), and 1/16-1/8" toe. Or about the same .25° from the last adjustment. With your QA1 UCA's those settings should not be difficult to achieve, but I still question whether this shop is actually any good. The alignment issues you've had so far indicates to me that they're not. Even if it was parts, they should have noticed the issues during the alignment process.
 
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