Help with manual valvebody

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Barracuda_v8

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Hello.
I have a 727 with a cheetah manual valve body. it shifts great when racing but when I switch from 2nd to 3rd at cruising speed, it feels as if the entire drivetrain wants to jump out of the car, it is bone hard!! Can it be an adjustment that is to tight? anybody please help.
Thanks Daniel
 
Not enough info.
Does it bog down when it does it, like it's binding?
Or does it just shift really hard?
 
Mine does the same thing. I have a Turbo Action 727, with their manual valve body, converter and a Cheatah shifter. Shifts under load are fine, nice and crisp. 1st-2nd while just tooling around is also ok but the 2nd to 3rd shift if there is no load on the motor is usually a heavy clunk to the drivetrain. Haven't been able to figure it out yet either...
 
I had one years ago ,best to shift under load.
I do not no if you can adjust it though,
 
Hello.
I have a 727 with a cheetah manual valve body. it shifts great when racing but when I switch from 2nd to 3rd at cruising speed, it feels as if the entire drivetrain wants to jump out of the car, it is bone hard!! Can it be an adjustment that is to tight? anybody please help.
Thanks Daniel

That's just how they work and it's why I don't recommend them for a car that sees much street use.
 
I had a 67 barracuda coup in my 20s (I am 48 now)
I put in a 383 and had the cheetah manual valve body in it.
Nitrous ,engine done to the n*ts 456 gear 8/3 quarter rear end.
Drove it on the street. Had to get out and relax because of the
noise, vibration and so on. The shifting with that is so harsh
It was built for racing, not the street.
Those 383s sure can have high RPMs, They have a shorter stroke
than the small block 360.
When you shift not under load it seem that it would break something
and I had to tighten things all the time.
Darryl
 
You're most likely experiencing 2-3 overlap. Back that front band off a half a turn and see if it helps. If it helps go a little more. You'll know when you've gone too far cause you won't have second without it.
 
Also ck the rear snubber that could be bangin the floor on a hard shift (axle wind up) under full power shifts the axles already wind up a little so no bangin.
 
[QUOTE=Barracuda_v8;It just shifts very hard.

A bud of mine decided to put his track only brand "F" back on the street with just a cam swap. Still had the MVB and 4500ish converter. Shifted very hard, but not extreme. Then decided the TC was too much and went much tighter, approx. 2500 stall, and it had the same characteristics as your describing.....it was brutal. Just wondering how tight your converter is?
 
stallspeed 2800

That's definetly adding to the problem. A loose/high stall converter really absorbs a lot of shock. Why you feel it so much at light throttle is the drivetrain isn't loaded. I think the only solution is to install a stock type valve body. You can install a Trans-go TF-2 kit in a stock valve body and it'll shift nice and firm but not like a manual VB.
 
thanks for the help. I think i will keep the manual valvebody and drive in third gear when i cruise.
 
A looser converter will help a lot, probably help your 60 foot times as well but the additional heat build up street driving it may be a problem.
 
Hello.
I have a 727 with a cheetah manual valve body. it shifts great when racing but when I switch from 2nd to 3rd at cruising speed, it feels as if the entire drivetrain wants to jump out of the car, it is bone hard!! Can it be an adjustment that is to tight? anybody please help.
Thanks Daniel

every turbo action ive had did what you are saying,great at wot but just cruising,shift bang clunk.crt has a street rpmvb that has pretty good manners.
 
every turbo action ive had did what you are saying,great at wot but just cruising,shift bang clunk.crt has a street rpmvb that has pretty good manners.

i am running the valve bodys in most of my cars they all shift like that really hard but i like it
 
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