HEMI 5.7 Wiring Harness

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67limecrazy

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I am Building a 1967 Dodge Dart with a 5.7 Hemi to go in the engine compartment. Now here is the real question. Does anyone out there have the wiring diagram as to what wires to cut out and add to the OEM wiring harness? I am using the motor with original tranny and also the wiring harness. I am not looking to purchase any aftermarket harneses since they are all expensive and I have the OEM one. This is what the motor looks like.
027.jpg

Any help out there will be appreciated.:read2:
 
I will be posting all the info on the build soon. I have several pictures to show. Also information on the conversion. Hopefully with this it will make it easier for others out there.
etc010.jpg

This is what I started with.
 
Google "wiring diagrams" for the year truck that yer motor came out of.

Then, find the ignition switch section, and duplicate it from your stock ignition switch. I take it that your harness includes the power distribution/relay center, which is a must. Go slow, take your time--you'll get it.

Yer gonna love it, trust me.

engine 002 (Small).jpg
 
Well thanks for the input and by the way nice set up. Your car looks clean. As far as the wiring I have cut away the power distribution section because I only wanted to run the motor and tranny off the computers. What I need is how to wire the computer part and ignition into the same. The harness I have now has all the plugs that go to the motor and tranny as well as to the computer. Any Ideas? I know it can be done and it would be way less cables in the car.
 
You have made it more difficult by eliminating the power distribution center, but hell, anything can be done. Get yer diagrams and figure out the power and ground distributions for the computers and fuel pump. You'll find they are all relayed, so maybe you can use the relays you cut away, but hopefully didn't throw away. Power to the computers and fuel pump HAVE to be wired "run/start". You'll find this to be the blue wire that currently goes to the positive side of the coil. This is critical, and should be relayed because of the additional load. Any thing that can be relayed should be--thus not overworking yer 40 year old harness. Good Luck. Keep us posted.
 
You have made it more difficult by eliminating the power distribution center, but hell, anything can be done. Get yer diagrams and figure out the power and ground distributions for the computers and fuel pump. You'll find they are all relayed, so maybe you can use the relays you cut away, but hopefully didn't throw away. Power to the computers and fuel pump HAVE to be wired "run/start". You'll find this to be the blue wire that currently goes to the positive side of the coil. This is critical, and should be relayed because of the additional load. Any thing that can be relayed should be--thus not overworking yer 40 year old harness. Good Luck. Keep us posted.
Ok, I did not throw away anything yet. Good for me on that part. When you say that the positive blue wire goes to the coil. Which coil are you talking about. On the other hand I will see if I can find out which wires go to the computer and the fuel pump.
 
I hope you realize that your PCM will have to be reprogrammed, the factory uses so many different inputs, that you engine will run like poo. There are a few companies out there that should be able to help, of course, it would be easier to spend the $1K and buy a pre-made harness.
 
I'm referring to the wire that goes to the positive side of the coil on the old engine. This wire makes it's way through the firewall to the factory coil. As far as reprogramming, I don't know. My Dart absolutely screams, without any flashing of the ECM. It runs continuous codes for EGR, cat monitors, and EVAP, but does not affedt the performance. So, if you are thinking about installing some fancy light somewhere on yer dash to serve as a "check engine" light, forget about it. It will always be on.
 
I got you as far as the Blue wire. I am in the proscess of figuring out the other wires that are available and I am almost done. I have a couple of relays and a small fuse block that I am running for constant power fused as required. It seems that after all it will work out. I also have a Computer Programmer from Daimler Chrysler that I use for my business and with this I should be able to Program if needed. In your case I understand that you used the entire harness and that also works its just that its alot more wiring. Hey but whatever works is what counts. After I am done with the harness I will take a photo and hopefully it will help others so they dont have to spend the $1,000 plus for the harness. We are all in this to retrofit and make our cars workable at the least expence.
 
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