Hey 340’s w 904’s what are your shift points?

[340inabbody]

Should not have slop.

Well mine has slop. I am not sure where the slop is coming from since I can’t get to the lever at the transmission and isolate it from the linkage due to medical.

But my guess is it is at the transmission. I have been told by several people here that this slop which I will call free play is “normal”. I don’t know if it’s wear at the valve or that’s the way they came from the factory?

 

[340inabbody]

As mentioned previously there is a procedure in FSM. Not sure why your one kickdown bellcrank has as many holes as Linda Lovelace??

The procedure uses a spacial tool. I have watched the original Chrysler film strip as well. I don’t know anybody who uses that tool to make the adjustment. This tool is also set up for a stock set up. MY SETUP IS NOT STOCK. Also my set up seems to be working correctly now. I don’t see a problem with damaging my trans. What do you see is the problem if its sifting normally?

 

[340inabbody]

As mentioned previously there is a procedure in FSM. Not sure why your one kickdown bellcrank has as many holes as Linda Lovelace??

I thought I explained why the modified bell crank is like this.

 

[4spdragtop]

Maybe i missed all the explanations lol BUT I can tell you there is NO special tool to adjust kickdown on our 67(and other a bodies).
Good luck

The procedure uses a spacial tool. I have watched the original Chrysler film strip as well. I don’t know anybody who uses that tool to make the adjustment. This tool is also set up for a stock set up. MY SETUP IS NOT STOCK. Also my set up seems to be working correctly now. I don’t see a problem with damaging my trans. What do you see is the problem if its sifting normally?

I thought I explained why the modified bell crank is like this.

 

[4spdragtop]

Well, you said there's slop, not sure where "that" is but there shouldn't be any.

 

[340inabbody]

Here is the Chrysler Factory training film strip. I remember these as a kid growing up in the 60’s beep. He explains the adjustment tool used to hold off the throttle valve at the transmission. This was the tool I was referring to. It’s specifically designed for a stock set up.

@ 9:36 he specifically says to take out the free play. This indeed implies that some transmissions may have free play.

 

[MopaR&D]

Sometimes there is a little free "play" in the throttle pressure lever at the transmission before the valve in the valve body starts to contact the internal return spring but the valve still has some small effect in that section of travel... Maybe that's what's going on? My 904 is like that.

 

[340inabbody]

Sometimes there is a little free "play" in the throttle pressure lever at the transmission before the valve in the valve body starts to contact the internal return spring but the valve still has some small effect in that section of travel... Maybe that's what's going on? My 904 is like that.

Thanks,
Yes I believe that’s what I am referring to. When set up my KD likes to have that free play removed. I have good consistent shifts and am able to fine tune them as needed by adjusting the threaded horizontal KD rod per the manual.
However when this free play is removed or “slack taken up” the KD movement is effectively shorter and this is no longer 1:1 with the carburetor throttle travel. This is why I needed to alter the ratio of the KD linkage to match the carburetor throttle travel.

All is now working as it should be but did require about an inch longer connection (or extension from the center pivot point) at the bell crank.

I am surprised others haven’t chimed in here to confirm:

1. The need to remove excessive slack in the KD

2. Sometimes modifying the ratio is needed to make the KD travel 1:1 with the carburetor throttle travel.

 

[4spdragtop]

Not sure if this helps, but here is pic of 67 FSM. Same setup on our 67 cuda with 340/904. #2 and #1 are both threaded for adjustment.

 

[340inabbody]

Not sure if this helps, but here is pic of 67 FSM. Same setup on our 67 cuda with 340/904. #2 and #1 are both threaded for adjustment.

View attachment 1716460963

Thank you. Yes, those are basic adjustments, but don’t change the ratio. Number one is a fine tune for correct shifting. I have found number two to raise and lower where that arm actually attaches so that you can have good throw or action of the lever at the crank.

The ratio can be changed at the carburetor and where it’s attached on the throttle, moving it away from the center of the pivot point will give you a longer throw moving a closer will give you a shorter throw. Alternatively, you can change the ratio at one of the two cranks The upper or the lower. In my case, if you look above, I change the ratio on the upper crank because it’s accessible. In this case, I made the lever arm longer, which increases the throw of the kickdown which I needed. So now both the throttle at the carburetor and the kick down and at the same wide open throttle point.

I’ve spoken to another member here on the forum and he’s done the same thing at the bell crank to account for the same problem of a mismatch and the length of throw between the two. I have also read in one of the threads here of a person making a modification at the carburetor. He put a large wheel on it and he can change the ratio by moving out from the center of the wheel and changing the throw there. To me it looked really odd, but it accomplishes the same thing.

 

[4spdragtop]

Here's a video @CFD244 linked in a thread about few years back

 

[340inabbody]

Here's a video @CFD244 linked in a thread about few years back

Post #31