Hidden Vin #'s

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The vin car is probably destroyed and your car is a junkyard find with no title.So during converting back to a street car he put the dash from the 74 in your 73(HIGHLY ILLEGAL).Possible jail time if they don't believe you.This is one theory,the next theory is that the back end was swapped to the 70-73 style and the trunk lid was changed also and you actually have a 74 converted.I would go with theory number two and let it rideeeeeeee.
 
The vin car is probably destroyed and your car is a junkyard find with no title.So during converting back to a street car he put the dash from the 74 in your 73(HIGHLY ILLEGAL).Possible jail time if they don't believe you.This is one theory,the next theory is that the back end was swapped to the 70-73 style and the trunk lid was changed also and you actually have a 74 converted.I would go with theory number two and let it rideeeeeeee.
This sounds like pretty good advice. I'm sure there are many cars around that were put together from 1 or 2 donors and then the other one got crushed. Too bad I couldn't find the other car.
 
Glad you don't live in Ohio, they'd look up your *** before
they left with your car, then the fun would start trying to
explain how you aquired a vechicle with a bogus title.
I've been though several inspections on different vechicles,
almost lost a HD that I bought as a rebuilder from a ins. company.
It was brought to Ohio from Georgia, inspected, issued a Ohio title,
wrecked, and I bought it.
Since the vin didn't match the trans number and I didn't have a reciept
for the trans they assumed it had stolen parts.
I had a hell of a time explaining to the State Highway Patrol Inspection
all of this cause they didn't want to hear it, my paper work should
have been in order. And they didn't make a mistake when they did
the first insp.
I finally got it worked out after a dozen calls and a promise to correct the
oversites on their part.
I was threatened with forfeiture and possible charges of recieving
stolen property.
I went in thinking all was well and had my paperwork sorted,
that I was doing all the right things.
 
Glad you don't live in Ohio, they'd look up your *** before
they left with your car, then the fun would start trying to
explain how you aquired a vechicle with a bogus title.
I've been though several inspections on different vechicles,
almost lost a HD that I bought as a rebuilder from a ins. company.
It was brought to Ohio from Georgia, inspected, issued a Ohio title,
wrecked, and I bought it.
Since the vin didn't match the trans number and I didn't have a reciept
for the trans they assumed it had stolen parts.
I had a hell of a time explaining to the State Highway Patrol Inspection
all of this cause they didn't want to hear it, my paper work should
have been in order. And they didn't make a mistake when they did
the first insp.
I finally got it worked out after a dozen calls and a promise to correct the
oversites on their part.
I was threatened with forfeiture and possible charges of recieving
stolen property.
I went in thinking all was well and had my paperwork sorted,
that I was doing all the right things.
Sounds like a few nerds getting revenge at the High school bulley. I hate when the wrong people get a little power. My car is all legit. At least as far as I am concerned. I have a Bill of sale from the PO. The transaction was notarized. If someone made a mistake 11 + years ago or even manipulated the system, I can't legally be held accountable. But I know what you are saying and I will be careful.:evil5:
 
I am certain there are other hidden VIN locations. Anybody have more suggestions?
Thanks Friend. I'm good to go on the Vin's. I found the one in the trunk under Passenger side seal. Title & Dashboard match and that seems to be all NC cares about.
 
those areas mentioned are going to be it. i once bought a 70 coronet 2 door. upon removing the carpet, i found the front half was a B5 blue coronet 440 and the back half was once a burnt orange coronet 500 that had been welded together right at the floor seam. thats when i learned all about B Body , sequence number body stampings. it was quite a suprise lol. anyways , if it were me, i would go about my business and forget about it. in the end , it isnt going to effect anything value wise, unless this car was an original 440 6 pack car lol
 
Thanks Friend. I'm good to go on the Vin's. I found the one in the trunk under Passenger side seal. Title & Dashboard match and that seems to be all NC cares about.
Understood, but was curious because I have a car that has had some funny stuff done over the years. Pretty sure it's all legit, but I own a car that has 4 different VINs at this time. 1 on dash, which matches title. 1 on rad yoke, which is off by 3. 1 under trunk seal, which ain't close, and the one on driver door sticker, which is a Plymouth of a different year than my Dodge. At this point, it would seem my car is a "grenade car", having been built from the shrapnel. I think the rad support number ending in 9 instead of 6 could be a factory typo, and the driver door was obviously changed. Found evidence of my car having a partial rear clip job done. Wrong broadcast sheet, and the fender tag is rusted to the point of illegible. By the way, the car I refer to is not an A body, but Chrysler followed similar protocol across models.
 
................... if it were me, i would go about my business and forget about it. in the end , it isnt going to effect anything value wise, unless this car was an original 440 6 pack pack car lol
Lol, No such luck. Just 2 318 cars equally equipped. No Strange welded seams that I could find. Probably just a 73 *** end stuck on a 74. I appreciate all the wisdom and advise on this. FWIW, I put it in God's hands like everything else in my life and He hasn't ever let me down.
 
Lol, No such luck. Just 2 318 cars equally equipped. No Strange welded seams that I could find. Probably just a 73 *** end stuck on a 74. I appreciate all the wisdom and advise on this. FWIW, I put it in God's hands like everything else in my life and He hasn't ever let me down.

keep looking everywhere around the battery side of core support, there are numbers there, they may be knee deep in paint. looksy inside the core support. maybe someone welded in a blank patch right there on top. stranger things have happened
 
Understood, but was curious because I have a car that has had some funny stuff done over the years. Pretty sure it's all legit, but I own a car that has 4 different VINs at this time. 1 on dash, which matches title. 1 on rad yoke, which is off by 3. 1 under trunk seal, which ain't close, and the one on driver door sticker, which is a Plymouth of a different year than my Dodge. At this point, it would seem my car is a "grenade car", having been built from the shrapnel. I think the rad support number ending in 9 instead of 6 could be a factory typo, and the driver door was obviously changed. Found evidence of my car having a partial rear clip job done. Wrong broadcast sheet, and the fender tag is rusted to the point of illegible. By the way, the car I refer to is not an A body, but Chrysler followed similar protocol across models.
Oh I got Ya. I never found the one on the Rad support and I removed all stickers. Now I have to glue them back on. I would just drive yours and enjoy it. As long as the Title matches the Dash you're golden.
 
If the VIN on the dash says 74 Id leave it. Think about down the road if you sell it might look sketchy to someone looking at it.
 
I can't speak to A bodies, but on an E body they
are on the under side toprail on the core support,
top of the firewall under the hood seal, drivers side in the engine comp,
topside in the center on the package tray
passenger side trunk seal lip under the seal
There may be more, but I am unaware.
 
I can't speak to A bodies, but on an E body they
are on the under side toprail on the core support,
top of the firewall under the hood seal, drivers side in the engine comp,
topside in the center on the package tray
passenger side trunk seal lip under the seal
There may be more, but I am unaware.
Good info!! Thanks!!
 
My 72 Dart (canadian built) has the rad support # stamped on the inner fender where the fender bolts to it insted of up near the radiator where it should have been.
 
Thanks, I'm gonna check that spot next. Was that on the drivers side or Passengers?
 
Your number you're looking for on the radiator support is probably on the drivers side, and will be on the vertical part instead of the top. Look in the gap between the radiator support and radiator, towards the drivers side....if that make sense. If it matches the number you found at the rear of the car, and not the dash VIN and title.....you may end up with a state issued VIN # riveted into the drivers side door frame. You had nothing to do with the swapping (if it was) and the NCDMV Inspector will give you Brownie Points for being honest and wanting to make it right.
 
Your number you're looking for on the radiator support is probably on the drivers side, and will be on the vertical part instead of the top. Look in the gap between the radiator support and radiator, towards the drivers side....if that make sense. If it matches the number you found at the rear of the car, and not the dash VIN and title.....you may end up with a state issued VIN # riveted into the drivers side door frame. You had nothing to do with the swapping (if it was) and the NCDMV Inspector will give you Brownie Points for being honest and wanting to make it right.
Thanks. The Inspector got what he needed to be satisfied it was a 1973. I will continue to look for any more #'s But I know it's a '73. I don't know why it wasn't just titled correctly way back when. I should know early this week how they'll handle the Paperwork part of it. But it will cost me some $$ to square it away. NC will want a Bond on the car which will require an appraisal. I'm guessing the real '74 is crushed in a local bone yard but who knows?
 
NC will issue a Serial Number. I believe I will get a new Title with that Number on it along with the corrected Vin.

Oklahoma issues a new vin of their making so it doesn't fit with anything. Last one I saw done (6 or 7 years ago) was red and white. They attached it to the driver's door jamb.
 
Oklahoma issues a new vin of their making so it doesn't fit with anything. Last one I saw done (6 or 7 years ago) was red and white. They attached it to the driver's door jamb.
Still waiting to hear back from them. Did the Have to drill 2 holes or was it a stick on Vin?
 
I'm surprised that someone hasn't asked this already but what are the first six characters on your vin tag?
 
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