High Flow/Performance Thermostats

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twalace

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Do these really make a difference and what temp is best?

318 W/Edelbrock Performer mani & 500cfm carb
 
they fail a lot, didn't make much diff at all before mine failed, but i wasn't using a hi flow pump
 
Yeah that's what I am wondering if they really make any noticeable difference at all vs a stock thermostat with some holes drilled in it for air to escape?

Car came with a 195 t-stat so I think I will try a 180 or 160...
 
If you have a hi flow pump you'll want a hi flow stat
 
Put in a Stant 180* and drilled two 1/8" holes in it, coolant is now flowing through the radiator again!
 
i see many new pumps called high flow but only have the 6 blades instead of 8. whats the deal with that??
 
Yeah that's what I am wondering if they really make any noticeable difference at all vs a stock thermostat with some holes drilled in it for air to escape?

Car came with a 195 t-stat so I think I will try a 180 or 160...

I think the point of when to use a high flow/volume thermo. is being missed. You only need them if you are using a higher than stock flow water pump and the reason is because of the design of the stock thermostats. They use a disc that has to open/move downwards, against flow, and sometimes will not open/move against the higher than stock flow of a high volume pump. The high flow thermo's use what could be called a cup that opens/moves downwards and the higher flow is felt on the sides of the cup as much as on the flat bottom surface. High flow thermo's are also referred to as a balanced design thermostat. Hope this helps. They will control the temp. just like a stock thermo and both designs should be checked for proper operation in a pan of hot water, on the wifes stove, with an accurate thermometer along side it. If they are stamped 180 degF they should start opening at 175-180 and be completely open at 185. Put them through a few cycles to make sure they don't stick because yes fresh out of the package or box they sometimes do stick.
 
i see many new pumps called high flow but only have the 6 blades instead of 8. whats the deal with that??

It's not necessarily the number of blades that determine the high flow nature but the different from stock design of the blades. In some cases the impellor is a try impellor with curved blades instead of cheap tin plates welded to or bent from a tin back plate. The curved blades are more efficient.
 
I always use the one's called fail safe. If they fail they stick open instead of closed.
 
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