HOG *** CAM
- Thread starter RAT ROD AL
- Start date
-
Yes. 360 La with magnum heads, AMC lifters, custom push rods.
My old truck is still running around here somewhere!
Yeah, they were rough for sure.Looks like the welder ran out of gas . But just kept on welding.
What did these come on from the factory?
I don't the years, but "whatever" slant sixes were put in for the date codes on the intake. I bet @slantsixdan can hep us out. Whatchyoo say, Dan?
I don't see any penstar on this one.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Is that the super rare and hard to find 384 duration cam?
UPDATE!
Never mind, I found one.
Last edited:
I've never seen a pentastar on any of um but then I've not looked hard either. It's factory though cause there's the casting number right on the intake. That'll probably get you in the ball park if you look it up .
slantsixdan
=..=
'78ish to '83ish. Chrysler Engineering paper on this intake is here.
The bent-lookin' №-4 runner is supposed to be that way. It was made that way on the EB-welded aluminum 1bbl and 2bbl intakes on purpose to fix a longstanding tendency of the slant-6 to run rich on certain cylinders due to complex vagaries of flow out of the plenum and into the runners. Engines equipped with the EB-welded manifold show better cylinder-to-cylinder mixture balance.
These manifolds might be ugly around the edges, but they're technically pretty cool, they weigh almost nothing, and they work well if they're not floor-cracked, if the welds aren't porous, and if the gasket surfaces are all nice and flat. The floor cracks are easy to understand; thin aluminum isn't as heat-tolerant as thick aluminum or thick cast iron, so over the years the extreme thermal cycling in the hotbox area of the floor of the plenum can cause cracks. Fortunately the cracks are also easy to spot by careful inspection after cleaning.
The gasket surfaces are easy to true up if necessary, same as you'd do with any intake manifold.
The weld bead porosity isn't as big an issue as it is sometimes made out to be. Those weld beads look ugly, but the pockets and holes don't go very deep; they're generally just on the surface. The porous ones pretty much no longer exist; most all of those were melted down as scrap many years ago.
Even in the unlikely event you happen to find a porous one, it's not difficult to fix/prevent vacuum leakage. There are several techniques; some of them are described and pictured here. Another good method is to have the manifold powder-coated. Or you can clean the manifold thoroughly, put it in the oven til it's up to 200 degrees or so, remove it and quickly put a bead of a good aluminum RTV (I like Valco aluminum all-in-one applied with the help of their clever Tube Grip) to the entire weld bead, smooth the RTV firmly into the weld bead surface with a finger (don't burn yourself), then refrigerate the intake. As the metal cools it will draw the RTV into the air pockets on the surface of the weld bead.
slantsixdan
=..=
Hey, will those fit with an Eldebork carb on my Valient?
slantsixdan
=..=
Seems legit.
Will you accept $6500? I'm tryna make a reasonable offer.
I want to pay with PayPal, in BartCoin.
-
