Holley 1945 carb direct replacement for a slant six? Ideas?

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cruiser

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Hi All: My apologies if this has been addressed before. I'm thinking about replacing the original Holley 1945 carb on my 1974 slant six. Has anyone ever found a direct replacement one barrel carb that works better than the Holley unit? It should bolt right up with the identical throttle, trans and fuel attachments. If you found one, how did you like the drivability compared to the Holley 1945? All ideas welcome. Slant Six Dan? Thanks!
 
The carburetor you're asking for (not by name) is a new old stock, never "remanufactured" Carter BBS for a 1974 Dodge Truck, that is BBS № 7044 or 7045. Looks like this (Photo I · Photo II. Second preference if you're sticking with a 1bbl would be a '71 198 BBS, № 4955 or 4956, though pre-'74 carbs have no built-in throttle return spring, so you'd need to add a second one to your existing external spring. You'd also, with either kind of BBS, need to put on a different choke thermostat. Kind of tied for second-preference would be a new(!) '76ish to '78ish 1945, thoughtfully jetted. Lotsa luck finding any of these; the new-carb supply has really dried up. I'd suggest getting in touch with Jon at thecarburetorshop.com , but his website seems to have gone all the way dark; I hope he's okeh.

Better overall result (also more work and cost): a Super Six intake manifold and one of these.
 
Thanks, Dan. Looks like the BBS in the photos has a solenoid attached to the side which my stock carb doesn't have. If I might ask, what would be the improvement of using the BBS over the Holley 1945? My Holley idles very poorly (and chugs) especially when the engine is fully warmed up. AFM set correctly, timing 10 degrees before. New plugs, wires, ECU, voltage regulator and ballast resistor. Runs fine at highway speed. Perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree seeking to install a different carb. Not sure where to go from here. I like to keep everything stock if possible. Your opinion? Thanks.
 
Sounds like dirt or corrosion in your carb's idle circuit. You can try clearing it out by propping the throttle open with the highest step of the fast-idle cam, removing the idle mixture needle, and spraying carburetor cleaner into the mixture needle hole with the engine running. Use your carb spray to clean the area around the needle before removing it, so you don't wind up flushing dirt into the hole. Then reinstall the needle, apply some carb spray to the tiny air bleed holes that face the sky (you can see them near the edge of the carb throat when you look down it) and readjust your idle mixture—carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

The first-year (1974) 1945 was a terrible carburetor, not fully baked. By a couple of years later they had fixed most of the problems with it—the cars still ran poorly, but mostly because of super-lean jetting and a pile of halfassed, thrown-on widgets to squeak the cars past federal new-vehicle emissions type-approval tests so they'd be legal to put on the market. Lean jetting is easily fixed, and widgets are easily removed or reworked (thoughtfully, not just willy-nilly, or you can make stuff worse instead of better).

The BBS was a decent-to-good carb design which had its bugs worked out many years before 1974 production, and the last few years of it—1972 through '74 in North America, a decade later in export markets—were only for trucks, so jetted for torque and driveability, not for passcar emissions compliance.
 
Sounds like dirt or corrosion in your carb's idle circuit. You can try clearing it out by propping the throttle open with the highest step of the fast-idle cam, removing the idle mixture needle, and spraying carburetor cleaner into the mixture needle hole with the engine running. Use your carb spray to clean the area around the needle before removing it, so you don't wind up flushing dirt into the hole. Then reinstall the needle, apply some carb spray to the tiny air bleed holes that face the sky (you can see them near the edge of the carb throat when you look down it) and readjust your idle mixture—carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

The first-year (1974) 1945 was a terrible carburetor, not fully baked. By a couple of years later they had fixed most of the problems with it—the cars still ran poorly, but mostly because of super-lean jetting and a pile of halfassed, thrown-on widgets to squeak the cars past federal new-vehicle emissions type-approval tests so they'd be legal to put on the market. Lean jetting is easily fixed, and widgets are easily removed or reworked (thoughtfully, not just willy-nilly, or you can make stuff worse instead of better).

The BBS was a decent-to-good carb design which had its bugs worked out many years before 1974 production, and the last few years of it—1972 through '74 in North America, a decade later in export markets—were only for trucks, so jetted for torque and driveability, not for passcar emissions compliance.
Dan, just to be sure - when I spray carb cleaner into the air bleed holes, does the engine need to be at idle for the cleaning spray to pass through these holes to clean them out? Or can I spray these holes at a higher power setting to prevent the engine from bogging down. To me, it seems like the holes could only be cleaned out at idle because they only are open when the carb is at idle. Is this correct? Thanks.
 
I usually clean out the air bleeds with the engine stopped first, because that way it's easier to really push the spray straw right down on the hole and blast it. Then with the engine running. Those holes are open full time, whether the engine is stopped, idling, or running at WFO. Here again, you'll need a fast idle so the engine stays running while you temporarily richen the mixture with the carb spray.
 
I usually clean out the air bleeds with the engine stopped first, because that way it's easier to really push the spray straw right down on the hole and blast it. Then with the engine running. Those holes are open full time, whether the engine is stopped, idling, or running at WFO. Here again, you'll need a fast idle so the engine stays running while you temporarily richen the mixture with the carb spray.
Got it - thanks.
 
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