Holley sniper install

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Yeh but Rob consider that many guys especially younger don't have the huge knowledge that you have and maybe I "thought" I had (and forgot some of). If you are starting from scratch, a new pump, fuel system, intake, carb, etc etc. and maybe a new distributor too, an Sniper/ FI tech is not that much more overhead than a new carb and associated
I agree. I go the other way. I'd rather stick with what I know, than learn a whole new art. I'm lazy like that.
 
It's ironic that I found this thread because I've settled on this system for my '65 Dart/'69 340, too. I like carburetors but I'm done fooling around with them, especially if I want to take my car up to higher elevations.

I put information here not to try and warn anybody off of going with this or any other system. I just want people to know that it's not all as simple as bolting one on and off you go. You still might have issues to solve that challenge your sanity. You should also know that your not done futzing with the system after you finish the install and close the hood. There is still a lot of programing to do even with the self learn. Fortunately there is a ton of videos and support is sort of available. On the positive side. I have timing controls like no other and cold start problems don't exist. Unlike a carburetor I can also be very aware of running overly lean or excessively rich at "any point" in the rpm range. You can say a carburetor can do that and I believe you. Honestly I do, but that covers, I'll go high and say about 5% of the carb population are of guru enough status to even pull off or actually even take the time to pull off an exceptional tune on a carb. Some have a friend that they trust, some go to professionals and some throw parts at it. Which is a note here of my failure. I threw parts at this that didn't solve the problem. About an additional $400 not counting my time. My problems finally went away with replacing the bad new fuel pump. Last note: If you buy the H/S system you don't get the cable that lets you run straight from your computer. You have to transfer data (via a macro card) from the hand held to a computer and back again. You can get away with just the hand held if you like. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
I'm really glad I found this thread. I'm trying to install a Holley Sniper EFI on my 69 Barracuda currently. Not having much luck. My gas tank got a leak, so I installed a new gas tank with a Holley EFI Pump in it, ran new fuel lines (fuel and return) as well as power up front and have been working on getting the wiring correct to get the system working. Installed the Holley Sniper, hooked up all the wires following their wiring diagram, but haven't gotten it to start yet. I have a 318 V8. Part of my issue is long ago I installed a Mallory Hyfire 4 and later a Mallory Unilite Magnetic Distributor. Holley's wiring diagrams don't show exactly how to wire up to that (it is old - installed in '94), so I've tried a few combinations. My last attempt was to take the Hyfire box out of the system and wire the Unilite Distributor directly to the Holley EFI - now not getting any spark. I'm going to call Holley on Monday morning and talk with their tech support, (tried that earlier this week but was on hold for about an hour, and dropped the call) and verify I have the wiring correct. I'm kinda thinking I'll need to get a HyperSpark distributor so everything is Holley (as mentioned earlier in this thread). So much for plug and play, but sometimes installing newer technology on something older doesn't go as planned. Looking forward to when it's running!
 
I'm really glad I found this thread. I'm trying to install a Holley Sniper EFI on my 69 Barracuda currently. Not having much luck. My gas tank got a leak, so I installed a new gas tank with a Holley EFI Pump in it, ran new fuel lines (fuel and return) as well as power up front and have been working on getting the wiring correct to get the system working. Installed the Holley Sniper, hooked up all the wires following their wiring diagram, but haven't gotten it to start yet. I have a 318 V8. Part of my issue is long ago I installed a Mallory Hyfire 4 and later a Mallory Unilite Magnetic Distributor. Holley's wiring diagrams don't show exactly how to wire up to that (it is old - installed in '94), so I've tried a few combinations. My last attempt was to take the Hyfire box out of the system and wire the Unilite Distributor directly to the Holley EFI - now not getting any spark. I'm going to call Holley on Monday morning and talk with their tech support, (tried that earlier this week but was on hold for about an hour, and dropped the call) and verify I have the wiring correct. I'm kinda thinking I'll need to get a HyperSpark distributor so everything is Holley (as mentioned earlier in this thread). So much for plug and play, but sometimes installing newer technology on something older doesn't go as planned. Looking forward to when it's running!
Your problem could be the ignition swich. Apparently, our cars have a momentary "gap" when the key switches from "on" to "start". This will cause the Sniper system to reboot when you try to start the car. My shop fixed this issue by simply installing a push button starter. So my starting procedure is "key to on", wait a few seconds for fuel to prime, the push starter button.

I love my Holley Sniper system. I've not had any issues with it after putting on a little over 500 miles with it.
 
EFISystemPro.com
a ton of good infos!

Ask also the guys from Holley forum.

Laptop tuning is absolutely required, there are some guys who proceed also e remote tuning! The self tuning is limited and for the max performance and economy it needs some skills. Its like putting a new carb on, it runs and drives but.....
Tuning carb or efi is almost the same. you have dirty hands during installation of the efi, on a carb during the tuning :)
On both systems you have to know what you are doing!
 
I have a Sniper installed on my 440 and it was very straight forward. The most involved part being the install of an in tank pump. I used a Sniper EFI tank and 255 Walbro pump (which I later had to switch to a higher flowing unit) and running a return line.
I am using my factory distributor with Pertronix III ignition without issue. Here is my thread on fbbo...I Finally Did It.....EFI
 
"Shielded wires" are not that simple. You have to understand that the factories have spent millions of dollars on R&D. --And understand that each "build" is just a little bit different from the next. You have to do some research on proper grounding, etc. It ain't easy, and there are too many variables. And there are several issues with grounding/ shielding/ RFI/ EMI. One BIG issue is "ground loops." This is where improper grounding, sometimes caused by multiple grounds, have a current flowing in the ground system, and cause a difference of voltage. With modern electronics and sensors, this does not have to be much

Another angle is electromagnetic (EMI) which we used to know in plug wiring as "crossfire." This is where a wire with enough power--like the alternator charging wire, or sometimes plug/ seconary wiring, generates enough magnetic field to induce current into a nearby wire

This is brought home by warnings over at MSD. Let's say you have an MSD ignition you have added---and I'm not even referring to EFI yet----in some situations, THE MSD HAS FALSE TRIGGERED ITSELF!!!! This is because the high power in the MSD plug wires can induce a false trigger into it's own trigger wiring.

proper grounding strategy for holley efi - Google Search
The shop I buy a lot of carbs from that specialize in FI conversions had 5 cars brought in the last 2 weeks by people who had bought and installed one, gave up and brought it to them. Give yourself a gold star
 
I too run a Sniper and have for several years. The biggest issues I have had are with starting. Not that it didn't start, it just seems to be too advanced or inconsistent during starting regardless of the cranking degrees value that I set. When I run EFI full only and an unlocked rotor calibrated with full advance at 3000 and 23 degrees of advance to give 32 degrees of total advance it starts with a flick of the key cold or hot. No more hard starting due to heavy advance. Magnetic MSD distro with MSD 6AL. Maybe a Hyperspark would eliminate this?

Also power is dropped on the ignition circuit between start and run on my Dart. This reboots the EFI and I see this on the display. A time off delay relay takes care of this issue. I have added relays to the ignition and headlight circuits to reduce the current and voltage drop through the bulkhead connectors.
 
Yeh but Rob consider that many guys especially younger don't have the huge knowledge that you have and maybe I "thought" I had (and forgot some of). If you are starting from scratch, a new pump, fuel system, intake, carb, etc etc. and maybe a new distributor too, an Sniper/ FI tech is not that much more overhead than a new carb and associated
 
With pro stock teams running efi for several years now, it should be good. As you're doing, we just need to learn what to do too.
 
I too run a Sniper and have for several years. The biggest issues I have had are with starting. Not that it didn't start, it just seems to be too advanced or inconsistent during starting regardless of the cranking degrees value that I set. When I run EFI full only and an unlocked rotor calibrated with full advance at 3000 and 23 degrees of advance to give 32 degrees of total advance it starts with a flick of the key cold or hot. No more hard starting due to heavy advance. Magnetic MSD distro with MSD 6AL. Maybe a Hyperspark would eliminate this?

Also power is dropped on the ignition circuit between start and run on my Dart. This reboots the EFI and I see this on the display. A time off delay relay takes care of this issue. I have added relays to the ignition and headlight circuits to reduce the current and voltage drop through the bulkhead connectors.
I run a Hyperspark with my Sniper and have never had any starting issues with nearly a 1000 miles of driving. As I previously mentioned, I also had the same issue sith the ignition circuit cutting out. We solved it by installing a push button starter wired directly to the starter. I like the looks of the push button on my dash.
EMSyW0B.jpg
 
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