How can I improve the steering on my '62 Valiant V8 conversion?

[Bill Crowell]

I sure wish I could improve the steering on my Valiant. I'm using the slow-ratio manual steering box, stock A-arms, and disc brakes. Tire size is 205/55-15 in the front and 225/60-15 in the rear; rim size is 15" X 8". I had to use the smaller tire in front in order to get the suspension height down far enough to be able to adjust any caster into it at all, and I need more. The combination of the steering's vagueness, mainly due to the slow ratio of the manual box, and the lack of caster result in poor steering. I would be interested in hearing any suggestions about how I could improve my steering without spending a lot of money.

Would the fact that the 1960-62 "A"-body unibody was narrower than the later models prevent you from using a Dakota steering rack?

Thanks!

 

[Robbie2734]

First try to get more caster with the offset upper control arm bushings, sway bars front and rear and a good set of shocks will help alot. Next step would be new tubular ucl's and faster steering box. I used them in my Barracuda and like them. Check for too much play in the steering coupler and steering box. The rack and pinion would be alot of work, and you might not need it.

 

[Bill Crowell]

Thanks for the reply, Robbie. I didn't know those adjustable control arm bushings existed. I have ordered a pair.

I already have large front and rear sway bars. I had to install them after I raised the suspension a little to clear the larger tires. Until then, I had a lot of oversteer, I think because the rear roll center was raised higher than stock. But with the front and rear sway bars it handles quite nicely.

I had to have the rear sway bar custom made. It points toward the rear, the opposite of a stock rear sway bar. I also had to fabricate the mounts for the rear bar.

After I install the offset control arm bushings, I'll give you a report. Thanks again.

Bill Crowell

 

[Bill Crowell]

I thought all the steering parts on my Valiant were fine, but they weren't. One bad lower ball joint, one bad torsion bar bushing and one bad strut rod bushing were enough to make it steer poorly, so I rebuilt the front end. The left front had apparently been at +4 degrees caster! Now both wheels are at 0 degrees caster. That was all I could crank into it, even with the Moog adjustable control arm bushings. I would still like to adjust more caster into it, but even with 0 degrees it does steer quite a bit better.

 

[65SignetSweden]

Hey. You can shorter the strutrods (castor rod) 1/2"-3/4" in a lathe to get nice caster. I did it on my driftcar and is a common thing among drifters. Hope this help.