How hard is it to remove and reinstall the driver's door for a hinge rebuild job?

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cruiser

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Hi All: The driver's door hinges on my 1974 Duster are in need of a rebuild job. I'd like to send them out to Mopar Leo, but first I have to remove the door, which I've never done before. Can you do this by yourself, or do you need another guy to help? How hard are the bolts to remove? They've been there for 52 years without being touched, but don't seem rusted. How hard is it to reinstall and align the door once the rebuilt hinges are in place? Any and all ideas are welcomed. Thanks!
 
You will be better off with a friend helping, think about using two jacks is you have access to them. I did it myself with a lot of cussing, almost dropping the door and a couple of smashed fingers. Good luck!
 
I did mine by myself.. did 1 hinge at a time and kept a jack under the door or the door closed while the hinge was off..

Mine were in for 60+ years and came out no problem. Hardest part was realigning the damn door which i am still not happy with.

I used the brass sleeves that are in the cheap kits, zero issues.. doors close like a new car. I will never put 20k miles a year on my car, maybe 500 tops.. so i won't be opening/closing the door thousands of times a year, so the repair kit was fine for me.
 
Hi All: The driver's door hinges on my 1974 Duster are in need of a rebuild job. I'd like to send them out to Mopar Leo, but first I have to remove the door, which I've never done before. Can you do this by yourself, or do you need another guy to help? How hard are the bolts to remove? They've been there for 52 years without being touched, but don't seem rusted. How hard is it to reinstall and align the door once the rebuilt hinges are in place? Any and all ideas are welcomed. Thanks!
See if he has a pair he can exchange and get them and do them one at a time. Duster doors are heavy. Just a thought.
 
Hi cruiser, there is a EZ Rest Door Hanger tool that can help if your floor jack is compatible. I bought one to help with the real heavy E body doors but I have not yet tried it. Here's a link at Summit but you can find them at several places, i.e., Eastwood etc..

EZ Rest Door Hanger

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If they're anything like my 67, on each hinge, 2 bolts from the inside, 1 from the outside.

Remove the kickpanel for lower interior bolts.

Exterior bolts, shallow ratchet held straight down for the upper, straight up for the lower.

Having the fenders off is nice, but not necessary.

Make sure the door pin is aligned correctly and has not been bent or worn.
Make sure the door jamb around the pin is not damaged, cracked, or generally messed up.

Some say to drill small holes through the hinges before removal in order to line them up later, but if the hinge has ever moved, or been adjusted to compensate for a bad hinge, drilling is useless.

Doors are heavy, be prepared.

Similar to all the tree fail videos out there, it weighs nothing until it's no longer attached.
 

Hi cruiser, there is a EZ Rest Door Hanger tool that can help if your floor jack is compatible. I bought one to help with the real heavy E body doors but I have not yet tried it. Here's a link at Summit but you can find them at several places, i.e., Eastwood etc..

EZ Rest Door Hanger

View attachment 1716488547
These work! They are made by Steck and I sold Steck products for 30 years. They are a little cheaper through Eastwood I see. E-Z Rest Door Hanger

1765637800074.png
 
Not a one person job, Bob. Heck, without a special holding tool such as those mentioned previously, may not even been a two person job on your car. Think about: If there are only 2 people on-site, one of them has got to be turning wrenches, leaving the other guy holding the entire load for a given amount of time….

I’ve done numerous, and equally heavy, ‘69 Mustang doors, and on my own, by using an engine hoist. Not an “approved” method by any means, but if you want to borrow my hoist (the same one we used to load your slant onto my trailer), I’m only 45 minutes away.

Jim
 
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Hi cruiser, there is a EZ Rest Door Hanger tool that can help if your floor jack is compatible. I bought one to help with the real heavy E body doors but I have not yet tried it. Here's a link at Summit but you can find them at several places, i.e., Eastwood etc..

EZ Rest Door Hanger

View attachment 1716488547
I have on of these and it worked well with an old Astro Jack with a lift out saddle. Haven’t figured out how to use it on my newer HF jacks with a bolt in saddle, which is too bad because my Astro died. POS only lasted 40 years and I paid less than $40 bucks for it new. I would buy them three at a time to sell off my tool truck.
 
I'm no he-man, but I removed a fully loaded passenger door from a 67 that sat in a scrap yard for 30 years or so 100% by myself. I got it into my Jeep, and down to my basement and up on top of a 6' tall shelving unit. Sonit can be done!

Advice...

Roll the window down.

Make some props (the right height) to support the door in a slightly open position.

Do the work on soft grass so if anything gets away less chance of damage.

Buying a second set (note they are handed) rebuild them or buy new replacements

Replace one hinge at a time

As noted there are bolts from the inside and outside, remove the outside bolts first then then the inside.

If you are sure you want to remove the entire door remove all but 1 inside bolt on the top and bottom, then with the door closed remove the inside bottom bolt then the top bolt.

Then push in the latch button and lift and pull the door open and out and then slightly backwards.

Places (Amazon, u-hual storage facilities, home depot) sell wide moving straps for moving heavy objects. They have arm holes at both ends and really work and help.

May want to protect the paint on the fender and door.

The door cradles and a helper can make the entire job MUCH easier and safer for the door and the rest of the car.

Side note. If you are going to use a cradle put the car up on 4 jack stands under BODY points so your body weight getting in and out of the car will not make the door move up or down relative to the cradle.
 
BTW, someone posted how to drill your hinges and use a “pin” to re-align them quickly. I’d like to know how to do that. Lost the post.
 
I’ve taken them off by myself out in the wrecking yards, it’s not fun but it can be done and following some of the steps listed here so far can make it easier.

I’ve also used a HF motorcycle jack when I’m at home, it works pretty well. And they cost less than that EZ door attachment thing, although, they will not stop the door from tipping over so there’s that. Also, I’m not necessarily saying I’d buy one of these instead of the EZ door thing, I already had one because I have motorcycles. Just another option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-...-lift-60536.html?_br_psugg_q=motorcycle+lifts

As far as the different models go, Dart doors are heavier if we’re talking ‘67-72 because of the wing vents. Which also make them kind of unbalanced and more awkward in general. ‘74+ doors of all types are heavier than that because of the addition of the impact beams, I don’t know that Dart or Duster doors 74+ are all that different in weight since they’re pretty much the same except for the shape of the glass. But 74+ with the crash beams are pretty heavy.
 
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