How much HP will a stock 360 Block take?

[sbmmustang]

I'd skip the Eddy's too and go for at least W5's or the Indy's. Maybe more like 12.5 to 13:1 I would think would be more on the order, especially if it's going to be a 360 and not a stroker. You are going to need 300+ cfm on the intakes to support 600 HP.

If you want to make 600+HP run a good set of W5's or run the Indy 245cc CNC head.I ran a 425ci W5 head motor in my Dart that ran 9.70's(3500ft elevation) at 3110lbs with 29.5x10.5W M/T with S/S Springs then changed over to Ladder Bar.

Here's my W5 combo 4.020 stroke(offset cut rod journals to 2.10 chevy) 4.10 bore comp at 14.23.1971 360 block half filled with hard block Pro Gram splayed caps.Solid roller 276-284@.050 on a .450 lobe ground on a 110LS rockers were Erson 1.6.
W5 heads 2.08-1.60 valve heads flowed 330's at 700 lift indy intake with a 1090 King Demon.727 with Turbo action T/B 8in Coan 5600 stall converter 9in Ford with 4.30 gear 29.5x10.5W tire.With a big cube motor you need a lot of cross sectional area to get the RPM's up to make power and a good intake.I shifted it at 7200RPM

 

[EL5DEMON340]

Your engine combination sounds just about identical to mine. All Forged internals H beam Rods, Line Honed with Girdle etc. The only difference would be the Eddy heads which might squeek just a little more than the RHS X Heads on mine. I honestly to not think you will hit the numbers you are thinking.

W series Heads or Indy 360-1 with somewhere in the 320-340 CFM Range should do the trick. Partial Hard Block would help but I would talk to someone who knows how to make POWER with the mopar small block like Brian at IMM ENGINES. He has been there and done that.

ou812 is his user name.

Also Opel eng in Streamwood IL, just west of the Chicago city limits is where most serious mopar guys bring their engine too, Ask for Ted, noticed your in IL

 

[Mad Dart]

Also Opel eng in Streamwood IL, just west of the Chicago city limits is where most serious mopar guys bring their engine too, Ask for Ted, noticed your in IL

I am in California.......

 

[crackedback]

As for CalTrac cars running 9's, sure they are out there. They are scienced out sophisticated race only cars though.

Nope street driven cars... yes they are scienced out.

Not everyone wants a track only type car and 14x32's are a pain in the rear on the street. BTDT. I'd rather have a car that the backhalf isn't cut to junk, it's more work to get a small tire car to go. You can get a 28/13.50 under a Dart/Scamp with a mini-tub. Everyone isn't interested in going rounds, his car is a street/strip car..

Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the cars that run 9's. Two are 66-67 novas, one mopar and a Ford or three or four.

Here's a 10.50-10.60 street car , runs consistent all the time, 1.41-1.43 everywhere, that obviously changes/increases when at altitude tracks, but dead nuts consistent. Caltracks, 275/60/15's. Only makes about 530hp in this pic. Taken at Fontana which is a notoriously crappy track.

Same track 28/11.50 IIRC 570hp w2 360, been as good as 1.37 60's 10.50-10.55 most everywhere

I won't discuss the point any further, you have an opinion, I have one as well. To say you need a big tire car to hook 500+ hp is a fallacy. There are many with a differing viewpoint.

Different strokes for different folks.

A real 600hp mill is a lot for a street car, you better be ready for it.

 

[EL5DEMON340]

Sorry was directing it to original poster

 

[needsaresto]

Me thinks you are going to need more than CalTracs.

I respectfully disagree. Caltracs will launch a 750 h.p big block car nice and straight on a 10.5" slick.

 

[needsaresto]

Proof.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...acing_test_tune_project_b_3_bomber/index.html

 

[Guitar Jones]

You guys have missed my point entirely. Look even Aquick408 has switched from a ladder bar to a four link for consitency. It's not about if you can make it work, it's about making it work everytime. That you will never do with CalTracs. I've got pictures of my Duster with the front wheels 4 feet in the air too but when you come back next round and it's like the thing is on marbles, well, you lose.

If you just want to hook sometimes, go ahead and put the CalTracs on, if you want to go down the track everytime with consistency, four link it.

I will however note that all the 10.5 tire so called street racer cars use a four link and a 33" tall tire. The taller tire helps because as the axle plants the tire the taller tire will spread out length wise creating a greater contact patch.

4 links are very streetable and some factory vehicles have this very setup on them, the newer Durango and '09 and up 1500 Ram both have 4 link rear suspensions under them, they just aren't adjustable.

Aquick408's thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=85736

 

[Guitar Jones]

And why would you not want to go rounds if you take the car out to race? That seems like nonsense to me and a total waste of time.

needsaresto, the link really proves nothing, only that it can work sometimes which I already said it could. We don't have any idea how that car would run with a 4 link.

 

[crackedback]

Everytime someone brings up a decent power level car, you say you can't hook it, need a 14x32... whatever.

Purpose built race car, like Lon's car, sure 14x32's are the way to go if that's what you like. Street car, no way. 14x32's on a 500 hp car is akin to cutting your arm off because you got a small cut on your finger. If you can't hook a 500hp on caltracks.. well, you figure out the rest. There are HUNDREDS of 500-750hp cars running cal-tracks and winning rounds.

From the looks of the OP's car, it's going to be more than a purpose built race car. Maybe he just wants to run test and tune and rounds don't matter. Those are points you consistently miss every time!

Different strokes.

I'm done.

Have a good one.

 

[Guitar Jones]

So then you agree with me?

 

[G. G. LEVERETTE]

A lotta good info in this book, BIG-INCH mopar small block by Jim Szilagy a Chrysler engineer. www.cartechbooks.com is one source for the book about $20 to save $thousands$$$$$ seems like a good investment.

 

[w2360Duster]

So then you agree with me?

No... he don't at all.

 

[earthmover]

HAY W2360DUSTER did you come by my house and take that pic??????thats the same color as my car is that a 1970 as well...sorry not hijacking just haevnt seen my with the same color......

 

[Guitar Jones]

No... he don't at all.

I don't think you should speak for him.

 

[Mad Dart]

I don't think you should speak for him.

I agree with Crackedback!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Guitar Jones]

I disagree with the blanket statement that the CalTracs are sufficient for whatever some one posts here about building a high horsepower car. I never said they wouldn't hook, I said they wouldn't hook consistently and if you want to go rounds then CalTracs are not the way to go.

I can personally say I have raced both styles frequently for years, nearly every weekend at many tracks across the southeast so I'm not talking out of my ***. I've won many races and gone many rounds with CalTracs so I know what it takes to make the CalTracs work and when they don't work.

I can adjust a four link in a few minutes, they aren't that complicated, in fact I built both my cars and others before them, didn't have to take it to a race shop. You can think what you want, you can believe what you want and you can agree with who you want but I have the real world experience to back up what I say.

If you want a high horsepower car that will hook as consistently as possible a four link can not be beat.

You may ask yourself why I insist on expressing this every time some one mentions CalTracs. Because I wasted my money on them, after shipping and everything I spent $1200 and the car wasn't any faster or more consistent than it was with SS springs. For $1200 I bought a complete welded rear frame, four link bars, QA1 coil overs, shock mounts and moly rod ends. Sure it takes some more money to install it and it's more work but if I had just bought it first I wouldn't have wasted $1200 on the CalTracs, which are still on my Duster BTW and are going to stay there. The next engine it gets will be less than the 600 HP the OP was talking about, probably about 150-180 less.

BTW all this is meaningless, it depends on what the OP wants, if he doesn't care if it hooks consistently round after round, race after race, then by all means put the CT's on there. But just let it be known that once you start racing, you may get bit and want to race more, than you'll want to win more and go faster, if you already have the four link you'll be in good shape. Why waste money, spend a little more up front and you'll save a bunch in the long run. But hey, it's your money, do what you want. I'm just telling you what my experience has been and how I could have saved money.

 

[aengineguy]

Guitar....just so you know what I am doing with the car. It will be mainly street with some occasional strip jaunts, but then again maybe the bug will get me and then I can have fun doing the trials, tweaking, cussing, science'ing (that is my profession) but generally having some fun. I wish I did, but don't have the time to dedicate to going rounds week after week, maybe 35 years ago. I just want to have something to give me sanity maintenance, drive around, see what it will do, play with the car, admire it, and just smell the unburnt hydrocarbons. I want something to enjoy and make me happy with what I can do. I have had 550 hp street cars in the past. I really did not want to go all out on the back side, nor tube everything, motor plate or coil over the car. It is really something to just enjoy. Why push for 600 HP? Because I can. Maybe I wont have the opportunity to hook up all the time, or ever, but so be it. Maybe I am foolish......aren't we all at times, brings out the "Hot Wheels" kids in us again. I appreciate all your info!

Thanks.........

 

[Prine]

I just had to jump in here and point out that this thread started off with the question of how much power a 360 block could handle and turned into a discussion about how much tire a 500-700hp street car needs.

I just want to throw this out there and we can close this discussion:

The limits of a production cast 360 block is when a cam/rod/piston/crank lets go.

There are 360 blocks pushing over a 1000 Rear Wheel Horsepower out there....naturally aspirated 1000hp, No, but still....search 1000hp mopar and see what you find on youtube......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zagXF6692lQ

my .02 :cheers: