How much weight can I put on a car rotisserie?

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60sMoparGuy

60sMoparGuy

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I am thinking of building a car rotisserie for my barracuda. Can a full car minus motor and transmission be put on a rotisserie and worked on? If so, will 3/16" wall (.1888) be strong enough? Anyone try this and or heard of this?
 
It depends on the rotisserie.
 
look into the "Whirly Jig" designed rotiserre. At the shows (Nats etc.) they have an entire ranger pickup on the jig with full drivtrain interior and suspension. I'd go with the 1/4 wall thickness though, nothin' wrong with good old American overkill! good luck!
 
60sMoparGuy said:
Like I said, Do you think the wall thickness is heavy enough for the weight?
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How the heck do we know even WHICH one you're talking about? You got any idea how many different ones are made?

Here's a novel idea. More information might help.
 
gilberttitan08 said:
You can fit and spin an M1- Abrams tank with the wall thickness you're taking about, with the crew on board.
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the question asked has been answered now what rotisserie are you thinking of using or building ur own ??
 
I'm thinking of building my own. I downloaded a great blueprint from the Internet. For free. The guy has a fab shop and has built these for years. He said this would be good for 3000# but having been an R@D machinist for 35 years+ I'm one to error on the overbuilt side! Knowing that an Abrams weights 50+ tons I think not LOL. Just my Plymouth barracuda! 1968 fastback. Without motor and trams.
 
"How much weight can I put on a car rotisserie?"

I've asked that question myself and was advised to stay off.
 
I have had a complete 66 dart convertible minus the rear end and bumpers on my rotisserie, at about 3k. yes it did have 1/4 inch tubing. I did find out that if you do not join the 2 ends it does a tilt in towards the car 1" even with everything stripped from it. once I joined it at the center leg on both ends it was rock solid with no more leaning. I will modify my unit this year with a couple bottom gussets and add roller bearings on my unit to spin a little easier. also when I put the off-road/larger pneumatic tires for gravel and grass on it I noticed that it was flexing the arms that the tires were mounted to(smaller diameter tubing a it looked to be a weak design) that will be changed to match the whirrly jig design on the next car I do.
I have also had a 70 challenger minus tires and bumper on one but it was a bear to find the centering to make it spin easily.
 
If you have blueprints and a stock list you can upgrade the wall thickness of the stock if you feel it needs it. I made mine from 2"x2"x.250" tube with 13/4" sliders inside. Total cost $250.00 not including casters. I used 750 lb. casters, 2 rigid and 2 swivel with grease fittings. Had a welder tig weld everything. Held my Scamp and then some. Sold it last July for $450.00. Can't beat that deal. You can't overbuild it. What's your life and your car worth?
 
383Scampman said:
If you have blueprints and a stock list you can upgrade the wall thickness of the stock if you feel it needs it. I made mine from 2"x2"x.250" tube with 13/4" sliders inside. Total cost $250.00 not including casters. I used 750 lb. casters, 2 rigid and 2 swivel with grease fittings. Had a welder tig weld everything. Held my Scamp and then some. Sold it last July for $450.00. Can't beat that deal. You can't overbuild it. What's your life and your car worth?
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This guy thinks like I do...... Better safe than sorry! FYI the link to the plans is:http://redwingsteelworksplans.com/ These come with good advise, a full list of parts etc. I have built things like this before, but if you have a list of materials it makes it easier, even to substitute sizes etc. Did I mention FREE ! Thank you all for your help and input. Yes, he did mention that putting a tie bar between the two ends was a good idea. :happy1:
 
If you use the plans, but increase the wall thickness ,the inner dia. Will be tighter and parts that slide together will no longer work.
 
LOL , yes to both accounts. As a past machinist, I know these things. Makes me wish I was still able to have access to a full shop! However, we make do with what we have.:cheers:
 
Just load it up until it breaks, then take parts off until it fixes itself... LOL!

Like the straw that broke the camel's back....
 
krazykuda said:
Just load it up until it breaks, then take parts off until it fixes itself... LOL!

Like the straw that broke the camel's back....
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Nothing wrong with a little strength testing !! Got a chuckle out ta that one.
 
Aren't we just talking a couple of modified engine stands connected together? Get a couple thousand pounders at Harbor Freight. Lengthen the outriggers, grease the hubs and connect them with something. Since you're supported on the other end you can divide the torque applied when you have an engine hanging. Such as a 750 pound engine supported on one will multiply the torque over the length of the motor. I'm no PE by any stretch but 3000# is a pretty realistic if not light number on two 1000# stands.
 
I'm currently building one from plans downloaded from Redwing Steel Works. Most of the steel is .188 wall square tube. Plans say it's made for 3000 lbs. I'm sure if your welding is up to par, this thing will easily (and safely) hold more than that. It is one sturdy structure. I certainly dont plan on putting that much weight on it, but I like the 'slightly overbuilt' idea. Plans were free to download..
 
Why not just use levitating nodes?
They are 25 bucks each and each one can levitate 800 pounds using a 12 volt power source.
That way you can effortlessly turn the car any direction you want while working on it.
 
The plans Ben is using are the same plans I will use. They are well thought out and designed. Thank you one and all for your input.
 
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