How often do you tighten your valve covers and how much?

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Cork, rubber or silicone/metal gaskets?
One engine I put the silicone/metal layered gaskets on about 4 years ago and haven't touched them since. Haven't leaked a drop.
Another engine with cork gaskets I snug up about once a year, beginning of the season with a 1/4 drive palm ratchet. Not tight, just snug. There is a in/lb torque listed for them, but can you honestly say you've ever seen someone use a torque wrench on valve covers?
 
I use studs....with nyloc nuts. The nuts can be tightened with minimal force to stop leakage......& distorting the v/covers.....but will not come loose because they are not that tight.
 
Yes they need tightened a few times with new gaskets. Then once every spring, and very little.
 
Pretty much every spring. I usually spend 4 or 5 days doing a very thorough detail job on it. That is a good time to do it. Like @1969383S said, I use a 1/4" ratchet and just snug them a bit.
 
I use a very vintage (late 40s early 50s) Snap On FAR70B. Some incorrectly call it an air ratchet, but it's not. It's a nut runner made for low torque, high speed assembly line work for such things as tin on engines. It only goes about 5-8 foot pounds, but it gets there in a HURRY. I had a close family friend who was a Snap On dealer just lay it in my hand one day and he said "don't say I never gave you anything" and I've been using the hound out of it ever since. He even gave me a new replacement head for it, which I've never needed to install. It still runs like a new one.
 
Rarely, do I tighten the valve covers. I’m just using fel-pro cork style you buy at Napa and a slight bit of RTV on the cover side only - just enough to hold it in place. If I smell a burning oil under the hood, then I check. Typically just an 1/8 turn will do it. If the covers are coming off for valve adjustments then I put new gaskets.
 
Its been my experience that most people overtighten the bolts for the steel valve covers, distorting the mounting rail.

I was watching Graveyard Cars one night and ole "cousin Douggie " had a great tip which I now use.

A little skim of gasket adhesive on the gasket and the valve cover , then, set the gasket into place in the valve cover and let it set up.

Then, a skim of adhesive on a properly cleaned cylinder head surface and install the cover with hand tightened bolts being careful not to squat the mounting rail.

Works for me.
 
Silicone over steel Magnum gaskets with fabbed aluminum valve covers, so no retightening here.

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Its been my experience that most people overtighten the bolts for the steel valve covers, distorting the mounting rail.

I was watching Graveyard Cars one night and ole "cousin Douggie " had a great tip which I now use.

A little skim of gasket adhesive on the gasket and the valve cover , then, set the gasket into place in the valve cover and let it set up.

Then, a skim of adhesive on a properly cleaned cylinder head surface and install the cover with hand tightened bolts being careful not to squat the mounting rail.

Works for me.
Pretty sure I saw the same episode, but for years now I've been applying RTV to just the gasket and the cover, and I leave the head surface "dry", in case I ever need to remove the cover later. It's worked well for me...

And to the OP; Yeah. Sometimes I have to give them a "slight twist" every now and then.
 
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Mopar permanent silicone. I never have to touch them and no leaks. Ive had the covers off a few times to check things and the same gaskets are still being used. cost more but only once.
 
I'm with LJ67, I have the sandwich silicone gaskets and my covers are off and on frequently to check valve adjustment. I've had the same gaskets for over 10 years.
 
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