How to Move Shackles in 3"

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SpeedThrills

SpeedThrills

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I wasn't going to relocate my springs inboard, but my 9" has been narrowed somewhere in its past, and to get my Prostars to fit, I had to. I only had 3/4" from the rim to the spring when it was in the stock location.

Anyhow, I have the Reilly Motorsports front boxes welded in. A-body inboard relocation boxes

I also have USCT rear shackle brackets.Mopar-A-Body-63-75-Spring-Hanger-Relocation-Kit-REAR-SHACKLE-MOUNTS-ONLY_p_165.html

I know the shackles can be moved without this kit, but I thought this would help. Now I'm not so sure. With or without the USCT brackets, I have to get those threaded inserts out of the way, or drilled through for the bushing that gets welded in for the shackles and bushings.

I read about using a hole saw. There's no way to pilot it except to weld a plate in the area and drill it, as was suggested somewhere. Not easy, either. I do have a 90* adapter for my drill, because the spare tire well is in the way.

I tried using air chisel to break the weld on the insert, but it's on there good.

I'm not even sure a hole saw would go through that insert.

Sign me,
Stumped in South Jersey
 
Here's how My Falcon springs were moved in. ---
Fuel - 4.JPG
 
The only info I've found about this is that it's "easy" compared to installing the front boxes. I guess it depends on the tools and experience one has. So, I thought I'd add my method, maybe it'll help someone searching this in the future.

I decided to use the USCT brackets that I linked to in my first post.

I found that they don't slide onto the frame rail properly because of the way the original hanger brackets are spot welded to the rail, making the frame rail thicker, thus not allowing the bracket to slide back against the surface where the two bolts that held the original shackle bracket go. I couldn't see a good way to remove that spot welded tab, so I used a spacer to hold the brackets out a bit. I installed the springs just by their front spring eyes, just to be sure the angle of the shackles is still okay.

I cleaned up the area where the brackets are going to be with a die grinder and a bullet wheel. Then I used machinists ink so I could scribe the holes for the sleeves onto the frame rails.

Then I removed the brackets so that I could make the holes. The holes no longer interfere with those welded inserts because the new bracket location moves them in front of them.

The holes on the outside of the rail aren't too hard to do. I used a 90* adapter in my drill and worked my way up until I had 1/2" holes, which is the largest drill I have. (It could be done without using the 90*.) The sleeves are about 1" (or so) outside diameter, so I used my die grinder with a die burr to get close to the scribe mark. I then used the bullet grinding wheel to finish it, using the bushing as a guide.

The inner holes are a different story. The spare tire well limits the access for drilling and grinding. I was able to drill the 1/2" holes (progressively from a starter drill on up) on an angle because they were just starter holes for the grinder. But I had to stop and order a right angle grinder so that I can finish opening the holes.

I will update as to how I finish it up. I still have to figure how to weld them in without the weld interfering with the bushing movement.
 
Here's a couple pictures. -My right angle grinder just showed up. Honey Do list gets priority today though.

Here's a shot of a finished hole. (Drivers side, outside of frame rail.) You can see the tab that is part of the original shackle bracket and how it is welded to the main frame rail. That's where the USCT won't fit. I'll add a picture showing how it fits now. The hole to the right of the new hole is the hole that is usually used, at least from my research. You can see part of the threaded insert in that hole. That would be hard to open up for the sleeve.
Duster Shackle Relocate 2.jpg

This is a shot of the spare tire well side (driver side). Just the rough hole is drilled (on an angle). You can see the well and how close it is. I'll also include a shot or two of the sleeve.
Duster Relocate Shackles 1.jpg

I'll take more shots as I finish up. I don't know if I'll show my booger welds though. :)
 
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Ground out the holes and welded the sleeves in without the USCT brackets. I don't need them. They were more of a guide.
After I took these pictures, (driver's side again) I mocked up the hanger and bushings to see if the bushings and sleeve would "play together well". The sleeve in the first shot fits better than it appears. It's a combination of a shadow and a bevel for welding.
Then, I welded the sleeves in, and touched up the weld with a grinder. :rolleyes:
Be sure your holes are square and parallel, so that the hangers line up with the springs.

More Rear Shackle.jpg


Last Rear Shackle.jpg
 
Next: Set pinion angle and tack/weld perches. -Thanks for following along, abdywgn. I hope this helps someone in the future.

Finished Spring Relocation.jpg
 
looking forward to the next installment. I like the clean installation...too bad the factory didn't do that to begin with.
 
abdywgn said:
looking forward to the next installment. I like the clean installation...too bad the factory didn't do that to begin with.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I was thinking that too. Maybe they had a policy about hacking frame rails for the front boxes. But they could've done a nice, neat job.You don't want to see my welding on the front boxes. lol But I'll post the perch install photos and odds and ends as I install the 9".
 
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