How to Properly paint and gunk engine?

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MeucciGarage

MeucciGarage

Mopars Unlimited Seattle
Joined
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Hey guys i believe im in the right thread for this but ive been neglecting my slant 6 for awhile now as far as appearance goes and ive never gunked an engine or painted one while still in the car. im told its easy to do and can look really nice if done right. i would like to go back to the torquise blue. can anyone shoot me some pointers or pictures from when they may have painted there block? how do i prep the engine to be painted? what needs to be blocked off? etc
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You are asking how to do it but you already did it......so what are getting at ??
 
It can be done but it's so much easier to pull it...but you may not have the tools for that or whatever. ..

Best tips I can give are...
Remove everything you can
Remover some more
Don't rush the cleaning. ..it takes a long time -just accept it
Aluminum foil is great for masking some stuff like wires and odd shaped stuff.
When you're satisfied with the cleaning, start over and re-clean
Painting is easy...just mask well
Any good name brand engine paint in a rattle can will be fine
Several light coats and the last coat medium to heavy to get a shine.

It's just a lot of work and time.....hope it's not your DD!

Jeff

Let me add that dirty hoses etc will diminish your efforts. Clean rubber hoses with gasoline then a tire dressing...tuck up your wiring into the places they belong...detail all the chrome trim around the radiator. ..etc.
The engine may be pretty, but it a package deal.

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Been there, done that.... Never again..... I say this because it looked OK when you saw it 5 feet away but otherwise it just didn't turn out like I wanted versus the time put into it.... Do yourself a favor if you have the time, tools, and space and pull it to do this. Otherwise, powerwash it, gunk it, powerwash it, gunk it, and take off all you are able to. Then use foil, paper, and saran wrap as said. I am a huge fan of the Eastwood Prep but it aint cheap. Sprays real nice though and will help the paint adhere...

Good luck,
JW
 
If you do use foil, do not use it if the battery is staying in on anything with exposed terminals like the coil, alternator or battery itself.

Best case would be to pull the engine & freshen it all up right though if your time & budget allows it.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
If you do use foil, do not use it if the battery is staying in on anything with exposed terminals like the coil, alternator or battery itself.

Best case would be to pull the engine & freshen it all up right though if your time & budget allows it.
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Oh ya....pull the battery...lol!

Jeff
 
If you were to ask me, I'd tell you to avoid Duplicolor paint at all costs. I've never had a bit of luck with it. Be it body or engine.
 
Leadfoot said:
If you were to ask me, I'd tell you to avoid Duplicolor paint at all costs. I've never had a bit of luck with it. Be it body or engine.
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Really? I never had any problems with their paints.....
What issues did you have with them?

Jeff
 
Leadfoot said:
If you were to ask me, I'd tell you to avoid Duplicolor paint at all costs. I've never had a bit of luck with it. Be it body or engine.
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Interesting...Some Dupli Color products,really are bad..(overpriced touch up paints,lacquer based,... ,touch up bottles,that dry out...) The rattle can etch,the engine paint cans(Ceramic 500 degree ,based...,The Wheel paint(actual catalyst enamel!) are good... Shot the "Paint series " lacquer,it's fair... At 26 bucks a quart,I picked up 44 dollar a gallon Acyrlic urethane,in Sublime.. I sold this junk,for twenty years,& using as a hot rod quarterback hobbiest..Karl has some truthes,to his post. For what it's worth: You can get color matched factory paint,mixed in a rattle can.It's real car paint,mixed from paint banks..It's not cheap(30-40 bucks a can..), but an option for some jobs....
As for cleaning: 50-50mix, of HOT water (90-100 Fahrenheit),& and Simple Green.I usually use low water pressure with an adjustable orifice hose nozzle(or your thumb..), to rinse off.. Sometimes anything caustic,removes more than what you want....
 
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After removing the intake, heads, wires, wiper motor, battery and tray, radiator, etc., I panted both the engine compartment (sprayed body color) and the engine (POR15 with a brush) while the engine block was still in there. Then before putting anything back in, it was either powder coated, painted, polished or replaced! This photo is 16 years afterward. BTW, your engine color is not turquoise. It is Chrysler Blue. My engine color is Turquoise.
 
Duplicolor 500 degree with Ceramic. Came out good just hope it lasts after reading this.

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3 coats of self etching primer from NAPA, 2 nice ( careful, too "nice" equals runs!) final coats of Duplicolor.
 
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