How to replace intake bolts?

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75slant6

75slant6

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To keep from hijacking lecki6's thread I decided to start another... I didn't realize the magnum intake bolts are one time use bolts and on top of that I torqued them to LA torque specs!! (35 lb ft instead of 12!!!!) and from what I've read that can cause coolant leaks in the cylinders. So how would y'all recommend I replace the bolts? Pull one bolt and replace it with a new one at 12 lb ft and keep swapping one at a time till they're all swapped or buy new intake gaskets and just take the intake off and start over with new gaskets and bolts?
 
I have done it both ways without a problem.
Pick the way you feel best about I guess.
 
If you have no leaks leave it as is. I have no idea where you heard a 12 ft lb bolt is a one time use bolt. FSM gives a torque procedure, not a torque to yield procedure. IMO if the bolts are not severely corroded or damaged threads you are wasting your time and $$.
 
mderoy340 said:
If you have no leaks leave it as is. I have no idea where you heard a 12 ft lb bolt is a one time use bolt. FSM gives a torque procedure, not a torque to yield procedure. IMO if the bolts are not severely corroded or damaged threads you are wasting your time and $$.
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Yea, $2.45 of bolts and less than 10 minutes is much more of a waste of time than taking an hour or more to remove broken bolt. When 8 out of 10 engines we take apart have a bolt broken off, that means something, the factory bolts are junk. They dont have a shoulder on them and most of us know what happens when steel and aluminum play together...without a shoulder, the threads corrode and bolt strength goes out the window.

FYI, Mopar claims they are a one use bolt.
 
I'd at least take the pressure off the coolant and drain it.

If it leaks, it will be in your oil. You'll have to drain that to know.

I think the torque pattern is just a little different than the LA.
 
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
I'd at least take the pressure off the coolant and drain it.

If it leaks, it will be in your oil. You'll have to drain that to know.

I think the torque pattern is just a little different than the LA.
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Hasn't had any coolant in it since I put the carb intake on, the engine is sitting on the engine stand.
 
magnummopar said:
Yea, $2.45 of bolts and less than 10 minutes is much more of a waste of time than taking an hour or more to remove broken bolt. When 8 out of 10 engines we take apart have a bolt broken off, that means something, the factory bolts are junk. They dont have a shoulder on them and most of us know what happens when steel and aluminum play together...without a shoulder, the threads corrode and bolt strength goes out the window.

FYI, Mopar claims they are a one use bolt.
Click to expand...

Do you recommend a certain bolt for it then? I'm looking at this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4876772
 
Take em out one at a time and retorque the bolts as you put em in! No harm, the bolt has not gone through any heat cycles, you could probably use the bolts you too out, unless you are using the old ones and are not comfy using them! If they're new and have been torqued but not heat cycled, they would be fine to use!
 
Peyote said:
Do you recommend a certain bolt for it then? I'm looking at this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4876772
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Thats funny, that part number has been on national back order for 6 months. You can buy the same bolts at Home Creepshow for $6. Nothing fancy, either plated or I sometimes use allens with washer. 5/16 x2. Stock are 2.25 but not common size. Pull one and take it with you.
 
magnummopar said:
Thats funny, that part number has been on national back order for 6 months. You can buy the same bolts at Home Creepshow for $6. Nothing fancy, either plated or I sometimes use allens with washer. 5/16 x2. Stock are 2.25 but not common size. Pull one and take it with you.
Click to expand...

Cool thanks, just make sure it has a shoulder, right?
 
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