Hurst Comp Plus Questions

[jeremy2146]

I have a Hurst Comp plus that I got with a 833 OD for my swap, but I cant find anything from the numbers that are on it. The levers a a little different from what I can see for a factory A body shifter. The Case says 285506 on, the outboard most lever has 2051 on it and the middle one has 2182 on it. The longer (inboard) lever I cant find anything on. All the holes are .500" so I know I will need bushings, or do I need the correct levers?

 

[jeremy2146]

Also, I know that it is the correct shifter adapter, and that I need new linkage and I have a correct crossmember mount.

 

[jeremy2146]

I'm wondering if the factory replacement arms will bolt into this so I can get this project going

 

[srduster340]

Those levers are obviously not factory pieces. I have a Competition plus as well. I used factory levers and shift rods. Had to use bushings on the shift rods though. You can buy a Hurst bushing kit # 3327302.

 

[jeremy2146]

Those levers are obviously not factory pieces. I have a Competition plus as well. I used factory levers and shift rods. Had to use bushings on the shift rods though. You can buy a Hurst bushing kit # 3327302.

So you swapped in factory levers? or are the original hurst ones different from the competition plus? the levers on mine look pretty thick vs. what ive seen in pictures for stock ones.

 

[mpaahana23]

You need one reverse one that goes down then up again

 

[66fs]

You do not have a Mopar shifter. The only way to tell is by the numbers on the shifter arms. Also search this forum. There are pictures of the correct shift arms and rods. I think I even posted the correct transmission arm numbers somewhere here. Maybe the new hurst arms and rods will work with what you have. Check out the Brewers Performance site. Good Luck.

 

[jeremy2146]

You do not have a Mopar shifter. The only way to tell is by the numbers on the shifter arms. Also search this forum. There are pictures of the correct shift arms and rods. I think I even posted the correct transmission arm numbers somewhere here. Maybe the new hurst arms and rods will work with what you have. Check out the Brewers Performance site. Good Luck.

I have searched and seen a couple of other posts on the arms and wrote them down, I'm gonna call brewers tomorrow and see what they have to say, If they do I'll just order everything.
Thanks

 

[srduster340]

I used factory shift levers on the transmission but had to use a bushing kit where the rods bolt to the shifter mechanism because the competition plus holes were too large. The factory shift levers are pretty much square on each end.

 

[davescuda]

factory arms with competition shifter

 

[ssba]

Since your transmission is an OD if you put non OD rod and lever in the 3-4
position your shift pattern will be reversed for 3-4. Unless you install the lever
upsidedown like they came on the OD.
The way the levers are in all of the photos 3rd will be in the 4th position and OD in the 3rd
position closer to the dash.

 

[d55dave]

There seems to be some confusion in this post. The OP is referring to the three levers which are part of the shifter mechanism, not the three shift arms that bolt to the transmission. From recollection I think brewers or passon list the proper shift mechanism levers on their website. Some fords (and others?) used rubber grommets in the holes on the ends of the levers to dampen out vibration (which explains the larger holes) , makes for a sloppy shifter though. I believe that the Hurst comp plus mechanism used in b vans and pickups with the 833 overdrive uses the correct shifter mechanism levers for an a body. Obviously the rods are completely wrong though, as is the shifter mount bracket. And yes, the shifter mechanism can be disassembled to re build and change the levers.

 

[jeremy2146]

There seems to be some confusion in this post. The OP is referring to the three levers which are part of the shifter mechanism, not the three shift arms that bolt to the transmission. From recollection I think brewers or passon list the proper shift mechanism levers on their website. Some fords (and others?) used rubber grommets in the holes on the ends of the levers to dampen out vibration (which explains the larger holes) , makes for a sloppy shifter though. I believe that the Hurst comp plus mechanism used in b vans and pickups with the 833 overdrive uses the correct shifter mechanism levers for an a body. Obviously the rods are completely wrong though, as is the shifter mount bracket. And yes, the shifter mechanism can be disassembled to re build and change the levers.

Dave, According to the brewers website I do have the correct shifter mounting pad for 67-76 a body cars, I know that I need new shift rods and such, I ended up picking up a correct shifter and other assorted parts for my swap last Friday. Now I just need to make sure I have the right brackets that bolt on the tranny or I will need those as well. Thanks for all the info, its really teaching me a lot. Thanks for sharing fellas!! Good stuff!

 

[jerame_c]

The brackets on your tranny are not original for the 4sp OD, but they might work as they seem about the right size.
The short one should be moved to the lower position for reverse instead of the 1-2 position it currently shows in. The forward bracket in the (3-4) position needs to be in the rearward position (1-2) and turned around to move that shift rod closer to the transmission body. The long flat link on the lower position (R) should be on the forward (3-4) position and should be pointing down as was previously mentioned. I think if you do that you will be in good shape with the pieces you have picked up.