Hurst pit pack doesn't fit hurst shifter!?

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95dakotadude

95dakotadude

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Hey guys, I'm having a weird issue I need help with.

I have a hurst compeititon plus shifter that I bought a Hurst pit pack for because it needed bushings and clips....I got the pit pack and go to install it only to find out the bushings don't fit the shifter arms! The shifter arm diameter is too small to take the steel bushing from the pit pack.

The only option I can think of is to drill the arms, does anybody have any better ideas or is there something else? I know I'm trying to install them right, it's pretty simple and I've watched Hurst's video on it to check.

Thanks,
Karl G
 
You might need to make your own bushings or find ones that fit if you have an old one that is good enough to match up. I had this same problem with the 4 speed in my 65 Barracuda years ago but luckily I had some decent used ones so I just used the clips from the kit.I think that kit is for more modern cars.What year is the transmission ?
 
Drilling those rods wont be easy !
Seems like I remember there being several different sizes of rods ands bushings .
 
valiantwagonguy said:
You might need to make your own bushings or find ones that fit if you have an old one that is good enough to match up. I had this same problem with the 4 speed in my 65 Barracuda years ago but luckily I had some decent used ones so I just used the clips from the kit.I think that kit is for more modern cars.What year is the transmission ?
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I don't think the tranny and shifter came together, but the shifter reverse has a 2336 which google says is a 64/65, so that matches what you said.

@mbaird, I did a bunch of research and I only see one pit pack available. I'll probably end up drilling them out and taking my time. I know they're hardened. Lots of lube and patience!
 
Have you tried contacting Brewers or companies specializing in rebuilding shifters to see what they have to offer?
 
Rocket said:
Have you tried contacting Brewers or companies specializing in rebuilding shifters to see what they have to offer?
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No. That's a great idea, but I want this done today. Plus, if I drill out the holes to the standard Hurst pit-pack size, then I'll never have to worry about it again. Pit packs can be found everywhere and there are aftermarket bushings for them too.

I hate how I always find these problems Friday night, so I can't do anything until Monday at the earliest with regards to shopping.

EDIT: It seems as though Brewers has some different sized bushings for sale, I'll have to measure the ID of mine. At $5 a bushing though seems a little expensive. I'll weigh options.
 
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Not sure what timeframe this started, but aftermarket sold Hurst shifters came with plastic bushings. They offered the pit pack with new bronse bushings and clips as an upgrade for worn plastic bushings.

I have first hand experience with this. In 1989 I converted a 69 dodge charger to 440 and 4 speed. I bought the Hurst shifter for my application 1969 B body from Summit Racing. It came with white plastic bushings. I went to my local speed shop and bought a Hurst packaged bronse bushing improver kit for it.

The factory installed hurst shifter and linkages for my current A body project were never drilled for any bushings, the rods fit the levers and tabs with a slip fit that was steel on steel, no bushings. Over time that wears out. Theres multiple ways to fix it including what I have seen people do with steel rod and heim joints. Not sure how this info helps you. Brewers performance may be able to help you further.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Not sure what timeframe this started, but aftermarket sold Hurst shifters came with plastic bushings. They offered the pit pack with new bronse bushings and clips as an upgrade for worn plastic bushings.

I have first hand experience with this. In 1989 I converted a 69 dodge charger to 440 and 4 speed. I bought the Hurst shifter for my application 1969 B body from Summit Racing. It came with white plastic bushings. I went to my local speed shop and bought a Hurst packaged bronse bushing improver kit for it.

The factory installed hurst shifter and linkages for my current A body project were never drilled for any bushings, the rods fit the levers and tabs with a slip fit that was steel on steel, no bushings. Over time that wears out. Theres multiple ways to fix it including what I have seen people do with steel rod and heim joints. Not sure how this info helps you. Brewers performance may be able to help you further.
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I don't know any tool makers with a ram edm, but I know a machine shop that could do work for me if I really needed.

@moparmat2000 , or anybody else who might know, is it possible that this shifter might not have ever come with bushings? The rods fit in the holes pretty snug, and the only lever that shows real wear is the reverse lever. Initially, I thought the black rings on the arms were the old rubber bushings hurst used to use, but upon further inspection, it looks like it's where the lever used to sit.

BxtHQFh.jpg


If no bushings are required for this model or whatever I'll just toss it back in and replace the ends with heim joints later.
 
95dakotadude said:
No. That's a great idea, but I want this done today. Plus, if I drill out the holes to the standard Hurst pit-pack size, then I'll never have to worry about it again. Pit packs can be found everywhere and there are aftermarket bushings for them too.

I hate how I always find these problems Friday night, so I can't do anything until Monday at the earliest with regards to shopping.

EDIT: It seems as though Brewers has some different sized bushings for sale, I'll have to measure the ID of mine. At $5 a bushing though seems a little expensive. I'll weigh options.
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Just an FYI...Monday is a holiday. So if you are screwed, you’re screwed until Tuesday.

Same crap happens to me.
 
95dakotadude said:
I don't know any tool makers with a ram edm, but I know a machine shop that could do work for me if I really needed.

@moparmat2000 , or anybody else who might know, is it possible that this shifter might not have ever come with bushings? The rods fit in the holes pretty snug, and the only lever that shows real wear is the reverse lever. Initially, I thought the black rings on the arms were the old rubber bushings hurst used to use, but upon further inspection, it looks like it's where the lever used to sit.

BxtHQFh.jpg


If no bushings are required for this model or whatever I'll just toss it back in and replace the ends with heim joints later.
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Not sure on the size of those. They look pretty large, but then again I have not fooled with mine since I mocked it up in the car and then forgot about it.
 
Daves69 said:
Those holes look pretty round to me.
See if the "Chrysler /Dodge /Plymouth" pdfs have your shifter in there..........
Hurst Shifter Installation Instructions Downloads - Shifter Doc
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I don't see my shifter listed in there. I guess I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I see all three listed have bushings, but none of them have the same reverse lever as mine..unless I'm looking at something wrong. Either way, it seems as though this shifter is an odd-ball, or at least, less common than traditional 4-speeds and it would be wise to drill them out bigger to accommodate the more common bushings for ease.
 
Measure the bushing OD with a caliper, then see about buying a piloted straight reamer in the decimal size diameter you need. Something like .002" to .004" bigger than the bushing OD so the bushings are a tight slip fit. Drill slowly with lots of oil.

Do the bushings fit the linkage rods fine and just do not fit the holes on the shifter tower and tabs?
 
95dakotadude said:
I don't see my shifter listed in there. I guess I'm not sure what I'm looking for....
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To see if your shifter model install instruction was in there to determine if a bushing(s) is/are/were required.
I believe some shifter pivots used just an anti-rattle wave washer.
 
I haven't tried it without the bushings yet -- this is a new transmission going in. I'm assuming it would work just fine because the linkage mates with the arms pretty snugly.

The arm numbers are: 2338 (comes up as 64/65 A body), middle arm 2130, back arm 2359.

@Daves69 , I looked at all three plymouth ones, I'm unsure which one mine is, but they all seem to have bushings anyways which leads me to believe it should have bushings --- unless none of these 3 are my shifter. I don't know which shifter is mine. All I know is that I have a 69 a833 with an 64/65 A body shifter.

@moparmat2000 , the bushings fit the linkage just fine, but they don't go into the shifter arms themselves. The holes in the arms are too small.
 
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No MOPAR OEM Hurst Competition Plus shifters use bushings anywhere, not the shifter or the arms. Bushings are only used on Hurst Aftermarket shifters. You can use the clips though. I can't see the tower but, what you have is probably a 1964-65 A Body Hurst Competition Plus shifter (one of the nicest made) or a 1964-65 B Body Shifter. The only ones to use a 2336 reverse lever.
 
66fs said:
No MOPAR OEM Hurst Competition Plus shifters use bushings anywhere, not the shifter or the arms. Bushings are only used on Hurst Aftermarket shifters. You can use the clips though. I can't see the tower but, what you have is probably a 1964-65 A Body Hurst Competition Plus shifter (one of the nicest made) or a 1964-65 B Body Shifter. The only ones to use a 2336 reverse lever.
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That's indeed what I have. So I guess I'll install it as is with no bushings or washers or anything. I'm surprised that the circles in the shifter arms are still so round for their age. The shift rods are pretty good too except for reverse which still isn't that bad. I figure metal on metal would wear them down pretty quick.
 
If you need bushings, this is what Hurst sifters use. OD is .380". If these will work for you, let me know how many you need and I'll mail them to you.
IMAG0618.jpg
 
Update to the thread:
I just called Brewers and they said it's definitely a 64/65 A body shifter and that the factory shifters did not have any bushings -- just washers.
 
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