Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder.

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bacaruda

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I enjoyed the Hyd. TOB thread. Now how about this? Probably going with that Amer. Pwr. Trn.
bearing setup. Now what are the recommendations for Master? Also have any installed pics?

Thanks Jim.
 
Why not just get their kit, which includes everything? I did a few yrs ago. No prob.
 
Ironmike said:
Why not just get their kit, which includes everything? I did a few yrs ago. No prob.
Click to expand...
Hey Mike thanks. I had not seen their complete kit. That'll work. You have any pics of both sides of firewall?
 
FYI: if you get the kit, you don't need to attach the push rod to the stock location on the clutch pedal. I simply mocked it up and came straight in from the firewall to the clutch pedal, made a mark, took the pedal out and drilled my new attaching point. Some people seem to think you absolutely have to attach it to the stock location, I called American Power Train and talked to a tech. He said as long as the rod is straight in and out of the master cylinder your good.
 
frederick_76 said:
FYI: if you get the kit, you don't need to attach the push rod to the stock location on the clutch pedal. I simply mocked it up and came straight in from the firewall to the clutch pedal, made a mark, took the pedal out and drilled my new attaching point. Some people seem to think you absolutely have to attach it to the stock location, I called American Power Train and talked to a tech. He said as long as the rod is straight in and out of the master cylinder your good.
Click to expand...
Thanks Frederick, I'm filing all this for referance. Still like to see some firewall pics, inside and out.
Jim.
 
frederick_76 said:
FYI: if you get the kit, you don't need to attach the push rod to the stock location on the clutch pedal. I simply mocked it up and came straight in from the firewall to the clutch pedal, made a mark, took the pedal out and drilled my new attaching point. Some people seem to think you absolutely have to attach it to the stock location, I called American Power Train and talked to a tech. He said as long as the rod is straight in and out of the master cylinder your good.
Click to expand...

Little more to it than that. You have to make sure you attach it to a point on the pedal where it will still create enough stroke/piston travel in the master cylinder. Otherwise it won't move enough fluid to actuate the throw out bearing.

But as long as the piston moves enough fluid, no, it doesn't have to be at the stock pivot location.
 
I installed my Willwood slave cylinder where the stock rod would've come through the firewall:

IMG_20170831_1909081_rewind.jpg


IMG_20170831_1908200_rewind.jpg
 
Sweet frederick_76, just what I was looking for, thnks.,,,
 
Oh couple more. Can you over extend TOB? If TOB hits max travel will pedal stop? Or good measure to have some travel limiter for pedal? Can you over depress clutch fingers? Probably less chance with B&B or Long style.
 
Pedal stops at max travel and I don't have a stop on it. It has good feel. I don't have a lot if time on it, just a few times around the block.
If you go with the remote fluid reservoir and mount it like I did, it will gravity bleed itself.
 
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