Hydraulic Clutch Upgrades

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mguner

How many is too many?
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I've been using Jeep components on my Dart Sport's hydraulic clutch system with no issues. At the time I did the conversion I didn't have my new shop or lift so I "settled" for an OK system. The geometry is not what I wanted but works. I recently found that a slave cylinder from a Toyota Land Cruiser (3/4" bore) will get me the correct alignment on the stock clutch fork. I will either have to shorten the Toyota rod or use my existing piece. As the images show, the system I use now needs the slave to go down and closer to the bell housing which the Toyota unit should allow easily. I will have to mod my existing bracket a bit. I have seen others use a Nissan slave which is a bit shorter but it also required modifying the clutch fork which I did not want to do. The reinforcement plate / mount for the master cylinder also covers the hole for the old rod from the mechanical system.
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Do you have a thread on how you did the hydraulic clutch? I am wanting to do this to my 68. I was considering using an 80's D150 setup. I am not looking for performance application I just don't want to fool with adjusting a clutch.
 
The old thread is buried in several years of posts and probably hard to find.
The master cylinder is from a 84-86 Jeep Part # CM1263 / CM39738 BORE 0.699 $33.99
I used my own push rod design, as I recall the Jeep one was too short to reach the pedal where I wanted to attach it.
Old Slave 80-85 Jeep CJ7 part# CS2234 BORE 0.880 $23.99
The new Slave is from a Toyota Land Cruiser 65-75 part# CS2205 BORE 0.75 $19.00
I used a combination of bulk steel tubing and a custom made hydraulic hose which I told the hose shop was for a log splitter so they wouldn't say no we can't make it.
The pivot bolt on the pedal is actually a lawnmower axle bolt.
The Toyota slave should give a little more travel and require a little more effort.
 
Thanks mguner, I've been looking at this for my 65 Cuda.
Should be mocking this up in 3 or 4 weeks, still doing body work.
 
The reinforcement/mounting plate for the master looks different than the one I ended up using because I originally tried some Nissan parts that didn't provide the travel needed. Just in case you noticed.... :) The Jeep master bolt holes are side by side... The aftermarket universal pull type slave units are sometimes easier to use but the price difference and availability made me go this way.

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