Hydraulic roller lifter questions (LA 318)

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Has the OP considered reusing the factory roller lifters?

That's kind of one of the good things about roller cams- they don't wear the lifter to the cam lobe.

...and reusing them can help offset the higher cost of the cam.
 
YY1 said:
Has the OP considered reusing the factory roller lifters?

That's kind of one of the good things about roller cams- they don't wear the lifter to the cam lobe.

...and reusing them can help offset the higher cost of the cam.
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He did consider it but his block would need to be bushed.
 
kdeboy said:
Yep, that thought has crossed my mind a lot in the last couple days but this plan is starting to spin out of control :) Started out as a nice streetable high performance build, then decided why not upgrade from the Action Plus/Eddy 600 on my current build, then better heads, then gee how about a kind of mellow street roller cam and all of the sudden I'm thinking about 4.56 gears, a solid roller cam, maybe a forged crank... I need to dial it back before my wife finds out and kills me, lol...
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I don't understand what's out of control about a solid roller over a hydraulic. Help me out here.
 
YY1 said:
Has the OP considered reusing the factory roller lifters?

That's kind of one of the good things about roller cams- they don't wear the lifter to the cam lobe.

...and reusing them can help offset the higher cost of the cam.
Click to expand...
I touched on that. He cannot. Not in a LA block.
 
kdeboy said:
Yep, that thought has crossed my mind a lot in the last couple days but this plan is starting to spin out of control :) Started out as a nice streetable high performance build, then decided why not upgrade from the Action Plus/Eddy 600 on my current build, then better heads, then gee how about a kind of mellow street roller cam and all of the sudden I'm thinking about 4.56 gears, a solid roller cam, maybe a forged crank... I need to dial it back before my wife finds out and kills me, lol...
Click to expand...
I run Morel solid rollers on a Comp Cam hydraulic grind cam
1969 LA 340 with ported X heads double springs
Comp roller rocker arms oiling thru the shafts
Comp one piece push rods with oil thru holes
Melling HV oil pump stock pan with a windage tray
Stock block no oiling mods no lifter bore bushings
Street driven dyno'ed @ 442 HP corrected before I had the heads and AirGap ported
Speaking from personal, please dont purchase the Comp Cam hydraulic retro fit rollers.
 
...would have been a lot easier...
 
JDMopar said:
I just put a small hydraulic roller in my 273, that was ground by Bullet. I used Morel hydraulic roller lifters because the oil band is low enough on the lifter body that it doesn't come out of the lifter bore and dump the oil out on each stroke. My rockers will oil thru the shafts like normal, but if my machinist orders me some hollow push rods, it will be just fine and can't hurt.
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I have those same Morels I think. The 5321 lifters. Hopefully they'll work pretty good for my 340".
 
Ted265 said:
If your worried about excess oil to the top end you could just run non-oiling pushrods to block the feed from the lifters off. Just make sure you are getting adequate oil to the adjusters from the rocker shafts - my prw rockers have a fairly narrow range of adjustment before it starts to restrict the oil passage to the pushrod cup.
As for the springs you would need to search around by installed height and pressure as most springs advertised for a LA small block will likely have a short installed height for factory heads.
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You happy with your PRWs? I have the same set. I Got them from B3 along with cam,lifters and geometry kit.
 
MICHAEL A SCUDDER said:
You happy with your PRWs? I have the same set. I Got them from B3 along with cam,lifters and geometry kit.
Click to expand...
Good move on the B3 geometry kit, I haven't ran the engine yet (still lots to do on the car it's going into) but they look to be well made and fit on the shafts nicely - no tight or loose bushes. They just needed a very good clean before installation, there were some chips and crud from cutting the adjuster threads sitting in the oiling passages on most of them.
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