Hydrolic TO Barring

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Abodyman

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Have any of you guys out there installed a hydrolic throughout barring before? If so I'd like to know about how far from the clutch fingers do I need to set my shims up on the input shaft. I have a friend (ASE certified mechanic) who has bee helping me with my build, but lately he has been bussy, and I want my truck rolling sooner rather than later. Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
 
the hydraulic throwout bearing rides against the fingers. It will have some pressure against the fingers. I can't tell you how much. You will probably have to play with it. Install with as many shims as is needed to have it ride against the fingers. Then bleed the system until maximum exstension has been achieved and see if the clutch disengages. If it does not then add another shim until it does. What kind of hyd t.o bearing did you get? If you have a part number maybe I can look it up and possibly help you out a little better.
 
Thanks for the info, I sort of thought that was what I needed to do, but wanted to double check. I got a Ram Hydrolic T.o barring part number 798-78132 for all tremec applications. I'm going to be running a TKO-600 behind my 390 stroker.
 
does anyone know if that would work with an 833 & 318? or any info on doing a hydraulic conversion with off the shelf parts ($650 for the after market kits is a bit much)
 
i had a tilton hyd bearing,,,now i have a system i sorta built,,

mc leod has a hyd bearing,,but im not sure if it works with a mopar 833 or not,,

i have a mopar 4 speed i used the factory fork and throw out bearing,,,and used a wilwood hyd clutch master cylinder and a speed way motors puller type slave cylinder,, wilwood also makes a puller type slave cylinder,, works pretty good,,,it gave me the room i needed for big tube headers in an early A,,the early A factory clutch linkage is weak and usually falling apart or wil if you use a heavy clutch,,

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