Hypothetical suspension idea
- Thread starter drewmac
- Start date
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It is nice but I was thinking g of 3k for the whole suspension. Both systems are as close to bolt on as well so that is why I thought of it.
What's wrong with stock suspension in good shape? It won the 1961 Compact Car class in NASCAR for the first seven places. Is that not good enough?
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
I was going to put the street Lynx in my 69 valiant this summer with a stock front suspension as I'm not using the Dart that the Lynx is installed in... I email Bill at RMS about getting another weld in top mount bar and he never replied so the idea died.
Call him. I called him a few years back (things might have changed but last I heard he was the same) just to bs and spitball and even tho he knew I was no where near ready to buy anything (still ain't) he was more than happy to talk to me. We talked for probably 15-20 minutes, just talking about Mopars and my, at the time, idea for an ideal street cruiser. Don't know if I'll ever buy anything from him or not but he's a super nice guy
Sprite street driving and some track days. Engine is going to be a 5.7 with a Votech and passion 5 speed.
Really no need for a 4 link if you're just having fun. The fastest mopars on the track have been, and continue to be, torsion bar/leaf spring cars. With the same driver on the same course the Hotchkis Taxi put down better times than a 2012 3 series BMW. And that was TireRack's professional driver, who usually does his testing with the 3 series BMW and not a 4 door 1970 Satellite with torsion bars and leaf springs.
The Hotchkis TVR system has some cool stuff, but, it's also still missing a whole bunch of things you need. Like torsion bars and shocks. It's also got a few things that you can save some money on, like their steering rod kit that you don't need. And some stuff I personally don't like on street cars, namely, the heim joints on the UCA's. But that's just me and I daily drive my car in all weather conditions so I have a different perspective on some of that stuff.
This is the set up I run on my Duster and what it cost. It handles pretty darn well. As well as my '04 SRT4 ever did, and it had stage III mopar coilovers and big sway bars too.
Front:
1.12" torsion bars from Firm Feel: $355
Bergman Autocraft SPC UCA's:$395
Howe Racing upper ball joints: $130
Moog lower ball joints:$80
QA1 LCA's: $395
Hotchkis Shocks (non adjustable): $475
Hellwig 55905 front bar: $175
Flaming River 16:1 steering box: $610
QA1 tie rod sleeves: $50
Moog tie rods (all): $60
Moog pitman and idler arms: $80
Adjustable PST strut rods:$300
Rear:
Hellwig 6908 rear bar: $180 (this is the Ebody bar I run with my B-body rear axle)
AFCO 20231M springs: $320
AFCO leaf spring sliders: $200
Dr. Diff 1/2" spring offset:$150
Leaf spring perches: $15
Front suspension: 3,105
Rear suspension: 865
Total: $3,970
Some of that stuff you don't need, like the QA1 LCA's and the leaf spring sliders. Which right off the bat takes knocks the price down almost $600. And everything is there, full rebuild on all the bushings, tie rod ends, etc. If you drop the LCA's and sliders you do need to add LCA bushings and shackle bushings, but those are cheap. The TVR leaves out some important stuff that will add cost (lots of it!). This is obviously my list, you may not need or want everything there and there are some places to save money from what I got. The 5.7 swap changes some things, although I know there are headers out there now for doing that swap with torsion bars. A coilover front end would give you some more room there so it has some advantages with the engine swap, but from a handling standpoint its not necessary to handle well.
The Hotchkis TVR system has some cool stuff, but, it's also still missing a whole bunch of things you need. Like torsion bars and shocks. It's also got a few things that you can save some money on, like their steering rod kit that you don't need. And some stuff I personally don't like on street cars, namely, the heim joints on the UCA's. But that's just me and I daily drive my car in all weather conditions so I have a different perspective on some of that stuff.
This is the set up I run on my Duster and what it cost. It handles pretty darn well. As well as my '04 SRT4 ever did, and it had stage III mopar coilovers and big sway bars too.
Front:
1.12" torsion bars from Firm Feel: $355
Bergman Autocraft SPC UCA's:$395
Howe Racing upper ball joints: $130
Moog lower ball joints:$80
QA1 LCA's: $395
Hotchkis Shocks (non adjustable): $475
Hellwig 55905 front bar: $175
Flaming River 16:1 steering box: $610
QA1 tie rod sleeves: $50
Moog tie rods (all): $60
Moog pitman and idler arms: $80
Adjustable PST strut rods:$300
Rear:
Hellwig 6908 rear bar: $180 (this is the Ebody bar I run with my B-body rear axle)
AFCO 20231M springs: $320
AFCO leaf spring sliders: $200
Dr. Diff 1/2" spring offset:$150
Leaf spring perches: $15
Front suspension: 3,105
Rear suspension: 865
Total: $3,970
Some of that stuff you don't need, like the QA1 LCA's and the leaf spring sliders. Which right off the bat takes knocks the price down almost $600. And everything is there, full rebuild on all the bushings, tie rod ends, etc. If you drop the LCA's and sliders you do need to add LCA bushings and shackle bushings, but those are cheap. The TVR leaves out some important stuff that will add cost (lots of it!). This is obviously my list, you may not need or want everything there and there are some places to save money from what I got. The 5.7 swap changes some things, although I know there are headers out there now for doing that swap with torsion bars. A coilover front end would give you some more room there so it has some advantages with the engine swap, but from a handling standpoint its not necessary to handle well.
my advice, if you have a local or nearby SCCA chapter close to you, find out when their next event is and go to it. Often times, the car drivers/owners are super nice and will take you for a drive in their car. If it's one of the bigger events, there is usually an old mopar or 2 there. Make friends, ask questions and take rides if offered. For spirited driving, an upgraded stock one like above will do just fine. Personally, I went aftermarket 4 corner coil overs because mine is more towards the competition side and the stock stuff just didn't suit me and the 4 corner coil over kits have much much more adjustments than Hotchkiss or even the street lynx. That said, the Hotchkiss stuff is very very nice and works great as a bolt on and go. with your budget, it's probably the way to go for you as well
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